2012 CHRYSLER 200 Complaints

car has always ran great no problems. i go to leave house and as soon as i drive maybe 100 ft all the dash lights came on started flashing and chimming. engine also reved up which was crazy i was terrified of rear ending someone. i hit brake but it kept doing it. ive had two different shops run a scan and they say too many codes to know. And tell me to take to dealership. i bought car brand new back in 2012. i just need to know what to do now?? the speedometer went to zero and cold hot hand went to c its like the computer wasnt sending messages to the proper places.

The contact owns a 2012 Chrysler 200. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the horn inadvertently activated. Additionally, the vehicle lost motive power while driving. The contact coasted to the side of the road and waited to restart the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed that the fuel pump relay relocation kit needed to be replaced; however, the mechanic was unable to install the replacement part. Additionally, the mechanic disconnected the horn. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and confirmed that there was no recall associated with the VIN. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.

The contact owns a 2012 Chrysler 200. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 16V668000 (Seat Belts, Air Bags) and 17V640000 (Seats, Air Bags) however, the parts to do the recall repairs were unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.

The alternator went out and fried the battery. You could smell like something burnt then the dash lights started flashing like the traction control then the abs light then everything started flashing and the car died and was completely dead. Then when I had the dealer put a new battery in the car he said they had to unhook the alternator so it wouldn’t catch the car on fire. While I moved it, my son said his 300 chrysler did the same thing and their was a recall on his, but theirs not one on the 200s

I own a 2012 Chrysler 200, That I Purchased Used but in excellent condition from a reputable dealer, and had a private pre-purchase inspection by a Mechanic (showing no major issues, and I have that report). I drove my car for just around 10-14 months, performed regular maintenance, and had no issues mechanically or otherwise. On the date this Incident occurred I had travelled in the car throughout that day doing some shopping (and the vehicle ran perfectly). We got home around 8:45pm, I dropped my nana off, and got in the car to go get some dinner. While still on my road (which is dark, curvy, has drop offs and no shoulders) as I rounded a curve my car with NO WARNING, completely died. I lost engine power, power steering, lights, headlights, and my brakes became incredibly weak. I could not be seen be seen by other motorists could not use my hazards, and just by dumb luck I made it over the hill with my momentum and had to struggle( NO Pwr. Steeing) to steer across the other lane on a blind curve with no lights, I was nearly hit by another driver, and got into a vacant lot and required my brake + Emrg. Brake to get the car stopped before it hit the structure on the lot. (I know for a fact I had no warning either mechanically or warning light - because I was looking at my dash panel checking speed at the time of failure) I had to have it towed home. A mechanic diagnosed it as a TIPM failure. After researching I found that this was a widely known/occurring failure on several Chrysler branded vehicles, It is a serious safety hazard for obvious reasons - I nearly got hit myself. Chrysler even recalled the faulty TIPM's on some of their BRAND NEW models but refuses to help owners who's cars are 4-5+ years old. And I can't even spend the Ludacris amount of money for a new one because without a recall and resolution of the defect, I'm just buying another Defective TIPM for $1000+ dollars. This is not only a danger to those in defective cars but others on the road.

Vehicle will turn off while driving, causing steering wheel to lock up. This has happened 3 times. Engine light has come on this time and has codes U0100, U0121 and U11. I’ve had the vehicle checked at NTB, but was told these must be addressed by Chrysler. My safety has been affected while driving on the interstate and the vehicle shut down.

The contact owns a 2012 Chrysler 200. The contact stated while driving approximately 40 MPH, numerous warning lights illuminated and the vehicle stalled. The contact lost power steering and power brakes and was unable to pull the vehicle off to side of the roadway. The contact had the vehicle towed to her residence and had an independent mechanic diagnose the vehicle and he determined that the engine seized and needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not been repaired. The contact had researched online and related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 11V487000 (Engine and Engine Cooling). The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

My head rest restraint deployed overnight whole the car was sitting in my driveway. I see multiple complaints of this and reached out to a dealership/Chrysler corporate and they said I have to pay for it out of pocket. They said the warranty for it was extended but I never received a notification of it being an issue or a warranty. The car was purchased in 2017 and had 2 recall, I took it to a dealership within a month and they said the recall was fixed. However less then 5 years later my head rest restraint deployed on it's own, there was no collision to my car while it sat in my driveway

Active Head Restraint deploy on their own and without warning. Unable to reset AHR due to broken cheap plastic.

While driving along a 40mph street, the convertible top started to pop open, causing me to have to grab it and pull it down, almost causing me to hit the curb, and having to hold it down until I got home. The instrument panel reading said "CONVERTIBLE TOP MALFUNCTION" and "TOP NOT SECURED". After calling a repair facility, I was advised how to get the top to re-latch closed, but now the top will no longer work, and i'm still not sure that although closed, that the top still isn't locked shut.