2012 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY Complaints

THE TPIM IS MALFUNCTIONING WHICH IS NOT ALLOWING MY FUEL PUMP TO WORK. THE CAR WOULD TURN OVER BUT NOT START UNTIL I TRIED SEVERAL TIMES. NOW IT DOES NOT WORK AT ALL AND HAD TO BE TOWED. MY MECHANIC I'M NOT ABLE TO FIX THIS BECAUSE THE PART IS BACK ORDERED INCLUDING A PART TO BYPASS THE ISSUE.

WHEN STATIONARY, PARKED, NOT TURNED ON, WITH NO KEY IN THE IGNITION AND DRIVER NO WHERE NEAR VEHICLE THE SIDE DOORS AND HATCH OPEN BY THEMSELVES WITHOUT A PERSON PUSHING THE KEY FOB BUTTONS. THEY ALSO CLOSE BY THEMSELVES IN THE SAME MANNER. SOMETIMES THE BEEPING NOISE INDICATING THAT THE DOORS ARE LOCKED OR UNLOCKED GOES OFF BY ITSELF TOO.

1) THE THIRD ROW PIER FOLDING SEATS HAVE TWICE BEEN INADVERTENTLY ACTIVATED BY A CHILD TOUCHING THE BUTTON, AND NARROWLY ESCAPING BEING CRUSHED BY THE FOLDING SEAT. ALSO, THE SEAT JAMMED IN THE HALF FOLDED POSITION AND THE DEALERSHIP WANTED $2600+ TO FIX IT. THE POWER FOLDING SEATS ARE A DEATH TRAP IF SOMEONE CANNOT GET OUT OF THE WAY WHEN THE BUTTON HAS BEEN ACTIVATED. 2) TWICE NOW, THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM HAS BEEN FLASHING RANDOM CODES- THE TIRE PRESSURE GAUGE WHEN THE TIRE PRESSURE IS FINE, THE ABS AND TRACTION LIGHT, AND ALSO WEIRD MINI ROUGH IDLES AT VERY LOW SPEEDS IN HEAVY TRAFFIC. IT IS A REPEAT PROBLEM THAT THE SHOP SEEMS TO ONLY TEMPORARILY FIX.

VEHICLE INTERMITTENTLY SHUTS OFF AND LOSES POWER WHILE OPERATING DURING BOTH HIGH AND LOW SPEEDS ON HIGHWAYS, CITY STREETS, AND OTHER ROADS, DURING BOTH TURNS AND DRIVING STRAIGHT. SLIGHT MOVEMENT OF THE KEY BEING USED CAUSES THE VEHICLE TO REGAIN POWER. HAPPENS WITH 2 DIFFERENT KEYS WHICH BOTH LOOK IN GOOD CONDITION. AFTER SOME RESEARCH, READING SOME FORUMS AND SPEAKING WITH MECHANICS, THE WIN MODULE, A PART THAT WAS RECALLED ON PREVIOUS CHRYSLER AND OTHER MODELS UP TO 2010, APPEARS TO BE THE ISSUE, AND IS NOT AN ISOLATED ONE. POTENTIALLY A VERY DANGEROUS PROBLEM THAT I'M SURE HAS ALREADY BEEN REPORTED AND SHOULD BE ADDRESSED BY THE MANUFACTURER.

DASH LIGHTS AND HEADLIGHTS SHUT OFF DURING OPERATION AT NIGHT THEN COME BACK ON A FEW SECONDS LATER. WE FOUND ONLINE THAT THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH AN ELECTRICAL MODULE THAT IS COSTLY TO FIX BUT THIS PROBLEM IS DANGEROUS AS WELL!

THE BLIND SPORT RADAR, MOPAR PART # 56038942AA, UNIT HAS A DESIGN FLAW. THE UNIT HOUSING IS NOT PROPERLY SEALED TO WITHSTAND MOISTURE AND THE ELEMENTS. MOISTURE GETS INSIDE THE UNIT, SHORTING THE ELECTRONICS AND RENDERING IT USELESS. I HAD THE UNITS (THERE ARE 2) REPLACED AT 30,000 MILES AND NOW AT 70,000 MILES THEY HAVE SHORTED AGAIN WITH THE SAME PROBLEM.. THE COST OF REPLACING THESE UNITS IS $881.39 PER UNIT! IT IS PROBABLY ABOUT 30% OF THE VAN'S VALUE AT THIS POINT. THIS UNIT WORKS AS A BACK UP SENSOR AND BLIND SPOT DETECTOR. THEY ARE A WONDERFUL SAFETY FEATURE TO HAVE ON THE VEHICLE, BUT I BALK AT THE REPLACEMENT PRICE. SEARCHING THE INTERNET, THERE HAVE BEEN MANY REPORTED PROBLEMS WITH THIS UNIT AND I BELIEVE A RECALL SHOULD BE INITIATED. WHEN THE UNIT SHORTS, AN ERROR MESSAGE APPEARS STATING THAT THE BLIND SPOT WARNING SYSTEM IS NOT AVAILABLE AND THE BLIND SPOT WARNING LIGHTS IN THE MIRRORS REMAIN ON AT ALL TIMES. THIS HAPPENS WHEN I AM DRIVING.

THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED WE WERE DRIVING IN TOWN GOING LITTLE UNDER 30MPH AND WENT OVER RAILROAD TRACKS AND THE WHOLE CAR SHUTS DOWN... NOW ANYTIME WE'RE DRIVING AND GO OVER ANY LITTLE BUMP OR RAILROAD TRACKS THE CAR SHUTS DOWN AND I HAVE TO PUT IN PARK AND RESTART THE CAR. THE CAR ALSO SHUTS DOWN WITH ANY TOUCH OF THE KEY IN THE IGNITION.

ROUGH IDLE AND BUCKING AT STOP OR SLOW SPEEDS WITH LOSS OF POWER AT SPEED WHEN SHIFTING BETWEEN 4 AND 5. LIKE IT MISS'S 5 ALTOGETHER AND GOES STRAIGHT TO 6TH GEAR. TOOK TO SHOP WITH #4 CYLINDER MISFIRE CODE. THEY REPLACED #4 COIL BUT ISSUE RETURNED NEXT DAY. SAME PROBLEM AND SAME CODE. SAID MOST LIKELY CYLINDER HEAD ISSUE AND MY BE COVERED BY RECALL. COULD NOT FIND INFO OF RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE BUT DID FIND MANY OTHER COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SAME THING. MY CAR HAS 64000 MILES ON IT. SHOULDN'T BE HAVING ISSUE LIKE THIS. WILL A RECALL BE FORTH COMING ON THIS ISSUE OR AM I STUCK WITH IT? RESPECTFULLY. (XXXXX). PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

FOR THE LAST 18 MONTHS I HAVE HAD TO TAKE OUT MY BATTERY EVERY TIME I TURN OFF MY VEHICLE IN ORDER TO PREVENT THE BATTERY FROM DYING BECAUSE THE FUEL PUMP RELAY KEEPS RUNNING WHEN I TURN OF THE CAR. AS A RESULT OF THE FUEL PUMP RELAY SYSTEM NOT EVER TURNING OFF WHEN I TURN THE KEY TO TURN THE CAR OFF, MY BATTERY IS DRAINED WITHIN MINUTES AND THE CAR FAILS TO START UNTIL I AM ABLE TO WAIT FOR THE TOW SERVICE TO ARRIVE AND JUMPSTART MY CAR. THE CAR ALSO ABOUT A WEEK AGO JUST SHUT OFF WHILE I WAS STILL DRIVING IT. THIS IS VERY CONCERNING FOR ME. I HAVE 2 YOUNG CHILDREN DIAGNOSED WITH AUTISM AND BOTH HAVE HISTORY OF SEIZURES AND THIS CAR IS UNRELIABLE. I HAVE PAID THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS TO REPAIR BATTERY AND HAVE THIS CAR TOWED UNTIL FINALLY LEARNING WHAT THE TRUE PROBLEM WITH THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN.

THE SCREW ON MY LEFT SIDED POWER LIFT GATE COMPLETELY BROKE. THE CAR WAS AT A STANDSTILL.