2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY Complaints

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DOORS COULD NOT BE OPENED ELECTRONICALLY OR MANUALLY. THE CONTACT'S PERSONAL MECHANIC INSPECTED THE VEHICLE AND ADVISED THAT THE ELECTRICAL SENSOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 85,000.

PURCHASED DOUGLAS XTRA TRACK II TIRES AT WAL-MART IN AUGUST 2011. ONE WEEK TO THE DAY LATER WITH LESS THAN 100 MILES ON THE TIRES ONE BLEW OUT. COMPLETE FAILURE RIPPED THE MIDDLE TREAD BLEW APART. MY DAUGHTER WITH A LEARNERS PERMIT WAS DRIVING AND THANKFULLY AT A SLOW SPEED OF ABOUT 40 MPH. RETURNED THE CAR TO WAL-MART. THEY DID NOT WARRANTY THE TIRE BUT DID REPLACE IT UNDER THE ROAD HAZARD WARRANTY I HAD PURCHASED. TWO OF THE REMAINING TIRES HAD SIGNIFICANT CREASES ON THE SIDE WALLS. THE MGR. SAID THAT IS NORMAL WHERE THE TIRE IS PUT TOGETHER. ALL 3 TIRES WERE LOW (1 WEEK AFTER INSTALL NO OFF ROAD). THEY AIRED THEM UP AND REPLACED THE BLEW TIRE AND I HAD TO PAY FOR THE ROAD HAZARD WARRANTY ON THE NEW TIRE. THE TIRES BOUNCE, THEY LOSE AIR CONSTANTLY, I AIR THEM UP WEEKLY. I HAVE ASKED REPEATEDLY ABOUT THE WEDGES IN THE SIDE WALLS WHICH ARE GETTING WORSE. I AM TOLD IT IS NORMAL AND I MAY WANT TO PURCHASE NEW TIRES FOR A SMOOTHER RIDE (BOUNCE). THEY RE-BALANCE AS OFTEN AS MY ROAD WARRANTY ALLOWS AND THAT IMPROVES BOUNCING USUALLY FOR ABOUT 10 DAYS. I HAVE TALKED TO SEVERAL PEOPLE WHO HAVE SIMILAR PROBLEMS WITH THIS TIRE PURCHASED AT WAL-MART. ON YOUR SITE I SEE AT LEAST 17 COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS TIRE BUT NO INVESTIGATIONS. I GUESS THAT SPEAKS TO WHO WAL-MART HAS IN THEIR POCKET. THESE TIRES ARE AN ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN AND I AM SURE THEY HAVE CAUSED SOME. ACCORDING TO WAL-MART THE SEPARATION OF TREADS ARE A ROAD HAZARD SO I AM SURE ACCIDENTS ARE CHALKED UP TO BAD ROADS, NOT BAD TIRES. I MEAN WAL-MART SAYS IT SO NO INVESTIGATIONS ARE COMPLETED. I AM A CERTIFIED SAFETY PROFESSIONAL AND CERTIFIED HAZARD CONTROL MANAGER, SO WHO AM I TO ARGUE WITH A WAL-MART TIRE MANAGER? *TR

HEADLIGHTS SHUT OFF BY THEMSELVES WHILE DRIVING. THIS HAPPENS VERY OFTEN WHILE DRIVING AT ANY TIME OF THE DAY. THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN. *TR

I WAS DRIVING AT 35MPH, THEN I SLOWED DOWN TO 20MPH TO CROSS OVER A SET OF RAILROAD TRACKS. AS I WAS CROSSING THE TRACKS, THE DRIVERS SIDE SLIDING DOOR OPENED, THEN CLOSED. (THE DOORS ARE REMOTE CONTROL DOORS.) THIS WAS THE VERY FIRST TIME THAT THIS HAS EVER HAPPENED. I WAS TALKING TO A FEW PEOPLE ABOUT THIS SITUATION, TO COME TO FIND OUT, THAT THIS IS NOT UNCOMMON. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHY CHRYSLER HASN'T DONE ANYTHING ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. THEY NEED TO STEP UP TO THE PLATE AND FIX THE PROBLEM. *TR

AUTOMATIC SLIDING DOORS CONTINUE TO FAIL AND NEED TO REPLACE ELECTRICAL UNIT. HAVE REPLACED 2 TIMES ON BOTH SIDES. AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCKS DO NOT WORK BY EITHER KEYLESS ENTRY OR BY MANUALLY PUSHING BUTTON. MAKES GETTING INTO VEHICLE WITH 2 SMALL CHILDREN VERY DIFFICULT ESPECIALLY SINCE THERE IS NO KEY HOLE ON PASSENGER SIDE DOOR. *TR

WHEN DRIVING AN A CONSISTENT CRUISING SPEED FOR A PERIOD OF TIME I WILL START TO BRAKE OR SLOW DOWN AND THE DASHBOARD INCLUDING ALL GAGES, LIGHTS AND RADIO WILL LOOSE POWER AND FLICKER ON AND OFF. SOMETIMES THEY WILL STAY OFF AND OTHER TIMES AFTER FLICKERING FOR 30 SECONDS TO 2 MINUTES THEN THEY WILL START TO OPERATE PROPERLY UNTIL THE NEXT TIME I HAVE TO SLOW DOWN OR BRAKE. SEVERAL TIME IT CAUSED THE ENGINE TO LOOSE POWER FOR A COUPLE OF SECONDS AND THEN START BACK UP.

MY AIRBAG HAS CAME ON AND WILL NOT GO OUT . THE PLACE WHERE I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE, REFUSES TO HELP AND CHRYSLER WILL NOT HELP. .MY VAN LEAKS TRANSMISSION OIL. IT GETS STUCK IN A GEAR. I BOUGHT A LEMON. *JB

FIVE DIFFERENT TIMES WE HAVE HAD THE SENSOR FOR THE AIRBAGS NEED TO BE REPLACED. WE WERE PART OF A RECALL ON THE OUTER ONE, BUT THIS IS THE ONE THAT IS AFFECTED BY THE DRIVER'S SEAT BEING MOVED. WE HAVE HAD THIS SAME SENSOR "FIXED" FOUR TIMES. EACH TIME WE PAY AND THEN IT BREAKS AGAIN. IT BEGINS SENDING A SIGNAL THAT IT IS OUT WHEN MOVING THE DRIVER'S SEAT BUT WILL GO BACK OFF IF YOU MOVE THE SEAT AGAIN. THIS GOES ON FOR A FEW WEEKS AND THEN THE SENSOR GOES BAD PERMANENTLY. WE ARE NOW DRIVING YET AGAIN WITHOUT AIRBAGS. WE HAVE CALLED CHRYSLER AND HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT WE CAN PAY YET AGAIN TO HAVE IT FIXED AND PERHAPS THEY CAN SEND SOMEONE WHO KNOWS HOW TO FIX IT PERMANENTLY. OR, WE CAN GET A DEAL ON A NEW CAR. WE HAVE ALREADY PAID TO HAVE IT FIXED MORE THAN ONCE AND WE BELIEVE THAT CHRYSLER IS AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM AND ARE NOT WILLING TO FIX IT. THUS WE ARE STUCK WITH AN UNSAFE CAR TO DRIVE OUR CHILDREN IN. *TR

POWER DOOR LOCKS STOP WORKING. REMOTE CONTROL ACTIVATION OF POWER LIFTGATE ACTIVATES ALARM. SOFTWARE DEFECT IN BODY CONTROL MODULE. CHRYSLER CHARGES FOR SOFTWARE UPDATE ($120 FOR HALF HOUR LABOR). TSB 08-040-04 CAN TEMPORARY FIX BY REMOVING IOD FUSE FOR 30 SECONDS TO RESET THE BODY CONTROL MODULE. *TR

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER LIGHTS ALL GO ON, THEN THE GAUGES STOP WORKING, THE TRIP COMPUTER STOPS FAILS, THE LIGHTS FLICKER HIGH TO LOW OR LOW TO HIGH BEAM AND CAN'T BE CHANGED SOMETIMESTHE ENGINE STOPS RUNNING WHILE TRAVELING DOWN THE ROAD AT 25-75 MPH! THE FIRST INDICATOR SEEMS THAT THE AIR BAG LIGHT COMES ON AS BEING "OFF". SOMETIMES THE LIGHTS & GAUGES GO BACK TO NORMAL. A GUARANTEED SHORT-TERM FIX IS TO REMOVE THE BATTERY TO RESET THE BATTERY BUTTON UNDER THE BATTERY, OR TAKE THE POSITIVE TERMINAL OFF & GROUND IT AGAINST AN EXPOSED BOLT. MANY SEEM TO HAVE BEEN FOOLED INTO BUYING A NEW BATTERY, ONLY TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM RE-ARISE, INADVERTENTLY "FIXED" WHEN THE A NEW BATTERY, BUT JUST LIFTING THE OLD BATTERY A LITTLE WOULD HAVE DONE THE SAME SHORT-TERM TRICK. THE SEQUENCE OF FAILURE SEEMS TO BE (RAIN INFLUENCED?): AIR BAG LIGHT COMES ON, LIGHTS FLICKER, ALL GAUGES & GEAR POSITION INDICATORS LIGHT UP, SPEEDO & TACH PULSE THEN FAIL, THEN YOU CAN JUST DRIVE WITH ALL WARNING LIGHTS LIT -NO TACH OR SPEEDO...THEN EVERY THING RESETS IN 10 SECONDS TO 10 MINUTES, OR, DASH LIGHTS GO OUT THEN THE ENGINE QUITS, LEAVING YOU DRIVING A POWERLESS ROLLING BRICK IN TRAFFIC, FIGHTING THE STEERING WHEEL WITHOUT POWER STEERING, HAVING ONLY INERTIA (IF YOU ARE SMART ENOUGH TO HAVE THROWN THE VAN INTO NEUTRAL) TO COAST OFF THE ROAD, THROUGH AN INTERSECTION, ETC. OUR DEALERSHIP'S DIAGNOSIS WAS A "BAD INSTRUMENT CLUSTER" - HARDLY, AS I DON'T SEE HOW DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY WILL INSTANTLY "FIX" THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FOR A WHILE, OR HOW THE CLUSTER WILL AFFECT SWITCHING BETWEEN HIGH & LOW BEAMS, OR KILL THE ENGINE AFTER A SEQUENCE OF EVENTS. THIS IS A WELL KNOW PROGRESSIVELY DANGEROUS PROBLEM, OF FAILURE LEADING TO SUDDEN LOSS OF POWER. THERE ARE MANY, MANY ELECTRICAL COMPLAINTS RELATING TO ELECTRICAL FAILURES REGARDING LOSS OF FUNCTIONALITY AND ENGINE POWER. *TR