2011 FORD EDGE Complaints

CARE STARTED MAKING A WHIRRING NOISE THAT WAS INTERMITTENT, BUT NOT A NORMAL NOISE. TOOK IN FOR SERVICE, FOUND A LEAK IN POWER STEERING. TWO MONTHS LATER (5/9/12) TRYING TO BACK OUT OF A PARKING SPACE THE POWER STEERING PUMP QUIT, COULDN'T TURN THE WHEEL AND LOTS OF STEAM/SMOKE CAME OUT FROM UNDER THE CAR. REPLACED POWER STEERING PUMP UNDER WARRANTY (EXT. WARRANTY WAS PURCHASED AT TIME OF SALE). NOVEMBER 12, 2014 TOOK THE CAR BACK IN FOR WHIRRING NOISE, MOSTLY NOTICEABLE WHILE TURNING LEFT AND ONLY WHEN IT WAS COLD OUTSIDE. (TEMPS BELOW 45). POWER STEERING PUMP WAS BAD AGAIN. REPLACED PUMP/BELT FOR $853.45. DROVE TO FLORIDA FOR THANKSGIVING NO PROBLEMS CAME HOME TO COLD WEATHER AND THE WHIRRING NOISE WAS BACK. THIS TIME IT DIDN'T STOP FOR 20-30 MINUTES WHEN CAR WAS SUFFICIENTLY WARM. NOISE MADE WHILE GOING FORWARD/BACKWARDS/TURNING. PARKED CAR FOR THE WEEKEND FRIDAY NIGHT, SUNDAY NIGHT WENT TO MOVE IT AND STEERING DIDN'T WORK. CHECKED FLUID RESERVOIR ALMOST EMPTY. TOOK BACK TO DEALERSHIP, HAD TO WAIT 48 HRS FOR THEM TO FIND THE O-RING AND HOSE WAS BAD, ANOTHER $500. O-RING AND HOSE SHOULD HAVE BEEN REPLACED WITH POWER STEERING PUMP, BUT WERE NOT PART OF THE PACKAGE. HOW DO I KNOW THAT THE NEW PUMP DIDN'T SUFFER DAMAGE FROM BEING SO LOW ON FLUID? THERE WAS 3000 MILES DRIVEN BETWEEN NEW PUMP AND HOSE ISSUE. *TR

THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR IS DEFINITELY CLOSED. CAR DOES NOT THINK SO. DASH WARNING LIGHT IS ON. DOME LIGHTS ON. WHEN USING THE CLICKER TO LOCK THE DOORS THE HORN BEEPS A COUPLE OF TIMES. WEIRD STUFF. I DO NOT KNOW IF THIS IS GOING TO CAUSE SAFETY PROBLEMS OR NOT. THIS EDGE ALSO HAS BACK BRAKE PROBLEMS. THE BACK ROTORS AND BRAKES HAVE BEEN CHANGED TWICE ALREADY DUE TO CORROSION. BAD DESIGN. THEY GET REALLY HOT AND MUST BE SLIGHTLY IN THE BRAKING POSITION THEN UNTIL CHANGED. WINTER IN MINNESOTA - SALT AND FORD'S BETTER IDEA. ONE MORE THING: WHEN WE CHANGE THE TEMPERATURE SETTINGS THE COMPUTER THINGS WE WANT AIR CONDITIONING. THIS CAUSES THE WINDOWS TO COMPLETELY FOG OVER UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS. I HAVE HAD NUMEROUS TALKS WITH FORD MOTORS ABOUT THIS SAFETY PROBLEM. THEY DO NOT GET IT AND BASICALLY BLOW US OFF BECAUSE OF COST OR LACK OF UNDERSTANDING. THERE ARE COMPLAINTS FILED. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 FORD EDGE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER ATTEMPTING TO CLOSE THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE DOOR, THE DOOR AJAR WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED AND THE INTERIOR LIGHTS REMAINED ILLUMINATED. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER, WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE DOOR LATCH FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 45,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

INDICATES DRIVER DOOR IS AJAR. DOESN'T MATTER HOW HARD OR EASY YOU CLOSE THE DOOR IT WON'T GO OFF. ALSO MY CAR ALARM JEEPS GOING OFF RANDOMLY. *TR

INTERMITTENT "DOOR AJAR" WARNING INDICATOR ON DRIVER'S OPERATION PANEL. OPENING AND CLOSING, SOMETIMES WILL CLEAR THE WARNING INDICATOR. IF WARNING INDICATOR IS NOT EXTINGUISHED BY OPENING AND CLOSING DOOR, DOORS WILL NOT AUTOMATICALLY LOCK (I. E. DOORS REMAIN UNLOCKED). FORD DEALER HAS USED A LUBRICANT (SPRAY LUBRICANT) INTO DEFECTIVE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR LOCK. ALARM IS LESS FREQUENT BUT STILL A PROBLEM. *TR

THE AJAR LIGHT COMES ON INDICATING THE DOOR IS NOT SHUT. WE OPENED AND CLOSED THE DOOR NUMEROUS TIMES BUT THE DOOR AJAR LIGHT STAYS ON. THIS ALSO MAKES THE INTERIOR DOME LIGHT STAY ON. THE MOST RECENT EVENT OCCURRED WHEN WE WERE TRAVELING BACK HOME AT NIGHT. THE SAME CIRCUMSTANCE HAPPENED. OPENED AND CLOSED THE DOOR NUMEROUS TIMES BUT THE DOOR AJAR AND DOME LIGHT STAYED ON. IT FINALLY WENT OFF AFTER 15 MINUTES OF OPENING AND CLOSING THE DOOR. TOOK TO THE FORD DEALER AND COST ME $500 TO HAVE THE DOOR LATCH MECHANISM CHANGED. I GOOGLED AND FOUND THIS IS HAPPENING TO ALOT OF FORD AUTOMOBILES. IN FACT, THE SERVICE ADVISOR SAID THAT 2 MORE CASES CAME IN TODAY AS I PICKED UP MY CAR. FORD NEEDS TO PONY UP AND DO A RECALL AND REIMBURSE EVERYONE FOR THIS HIGH COSTS FIX AND DESIGN A BETTER LATCHING MECHANISM; "NOT MILITARY GRADE PLASTIC". *TR

DRIVING @30 MPH TRIED TO STOP AND BRAKE PEDAL BECAME ROCK HARD AND WOULD NOT STOP CAR ROLLED TO SLOW DOWN THEN APPLIED BRAKE AND PUMPED PEDAL HAD TO PUSH BRAKE WITH BOOTH FEET TO STOP NO POWER BRAKES AND ROCK HARD PEDAL. UPDATED 1/15/2016*JS

THE DRIVERS DOOR THE DOOR AJAR LIGHT , THE SWITCH IS STICKING CAUSING THE DOOR AJAR LIGHT AND INTERIOR LIGHTS TO STAY ON ALSO THE DOOR LOCKS WILL NOT ENGAGE.SAFTEY ISSUE. HAVE HAD TO REPAIR OR REPLACE THIS SWITCH TWICE SINCE 2012 AT A COST OF ORE THAN 500.00 DOLLARS. DEALER SAYS THEY KNOW ABOUT THE PROBLEM BUT SINCE NO RECALL ALL THEY CAN DO IS REPAIR OR REPLACE OVER AND OVER AGAIN. I KNOW THIS IS A MODEL PROBLEM JUST CHECK. *JS

DOOR AJAR INDICATOR LIGHT FOR REAR, LEFT PASSENGER DOOR REMAINS LIT AFTER DOOR HAS BEEN SLAMMED SHUT NUMEROUS TIMES. SAME ISSUE AS OTHER COMPLAINTS FOR FRONT DRIVER DOOR. *TR

DRIVERS SIDE DOOR AJAR LIGHT STAYS ON. DOORS WILL NOT LOCK AND INTERIOR LIGHTS STAY ON. NOT SAFE DRIVING WITH DOORS UNLOCKED IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT. INTERIOR LIGHTS STAYING ON AT NIGHT MAKE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO SEE! *TR