2011 FORD EDGE Complaints

When I start the vehicle the door ajar warning light goes on and will not shut off. When I shut off the vehicle the interior light stays on. When I am sleeping in the middle of the night my warning system goes off and the car beeps constantly until I hit the key transponder With key in my hand the automatic lock will not unlock unless I press the unlock button ( I changed batteries in both of my keys).

Rear left door ajar button constantly is lit up, even when the door is shut. This is causing the vehicle to keep interior lights on and even trigger the alarm to sound at times, causing the battery to die often.

ON OR ABOUT APRIL 19, 2021, WITHOUT WARNING, THE VEHICLE'S BRAKING SYSTEM SIGNIFICANTLY FAILED. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO SLOW THE VEHICLE DOWN BY APPLYING THE BRAKES, THE BRAKE PEDAL HAD VERY LITTLE PRESSURE AND DIDN'T SLOW THE VEHICLE UNLESS DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL ALMOST TO THE FLOORBOARD. THE LOSS OF SUFFICIENT BRAKING COULD HAVE RESULTED IN DAMAGE TO PROPERTY OR EVEN PERSONAL INJURY. THE VEHICLE WAS IMMEDIATELY TAKEN TO THE LOCAL FORD DEALERSHIP IN COLUMBIA, SOUTH CAROLINA WHEREBY THE TECHNICIAN REVIEWED THE VEHICLE AND DETERMINED THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM ("ABS") HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT FAILED WITH AN INTERNAL ISSUE. THE ABS AND/OR BRAKING SYSTEM ON A MODERN VEHICLE SHOULD NOT FAIL. THE COST TO REPAIR AND ADDRESS SAID ISSUE WAS $1,912.85. ATTACHED AND INCORPORATED HEREIN BY REFERENCE IS AN INVOICE AND RECEIPT OF SAID REPAIR. THE SAME VEHICLE WAS PREVIOUSLY RECALLED FOR "BRAKE BOOSTER FAILURE." THIS VEHICLE SHOULD ALSO BE RECALLED FOR THE ABS HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT FAILING BEFORE SOMEONE GETS SERIOUSLY INJURED OR EVEN KILLED.

MUSSY BREAKS. CAR BRAKE PEDAL GOES ALL THE WAY TO FLOOR, CAUSING THE CAR TO TAKE LONGER TO STOP ON THE ROAD, HIGHWAY AND CITY STREET.

WHILE DRIVING ABS LIGHT CAME ON, THEN SERVICE ADVANCE TRAK. DID THIS INTERMITTENTLY. GOT ON RAMP, TURNING WHEEL RIGHT ANTI LOCK BRAKES KICKED IN FOR NO REASON. IT WASN'T RAINING, NOT ICY, ETC. PARKED. WHEN I STARTED MY CARD DROVE 15 MINUTES, ABS LIGHT CAME BACK ON- THEN KICKED IN, FOR NO REASON.

THE BACK GLASS SECTION OF MY PANORAMIC SUNROOF EXPLODED AS I WAS DRIVING. THERE WAS NO DEBRIS ON THE ROAD AND NO OTHER VEHICLES AROUND.

ABS HYDRAULIC MCU UNIT VALVES STICK OPEN AFTER TURNING AND GOING OVER A BUMP WITH THE BRAKES ON. OUT OF NOWHERE THE BAKE PEDDLE GOES ALMOST TO THE FLOOR AND DOES NOT RETURN TO NORMAL OPERATION. YOU ARE LEFT WITH A SPONGEY PEDDLE THAT WHEN PRESSED CONTINUES TO DEPRESS AS IF LEAKING UNTIL IT BOTTOMS OUT. UNLESS YOU PUMP IT UP. I HAVE HAD THE MCU CYCLED AT A GARAGE AND THEY HAVE GOTTEN THE VALVE TO BREAK FREE ONLY TO HAVE IT HAPPEN AGAIN. I SEE THEY HAVE RECALLED THE FUSION FOR A SIMILAR ISSUE.

FORD HAS ACKNOWLEDGED THAT THE BRAKE POWER BOOSTER IS DEFECTIVE AND WILL REPLACE IT UP TO 150,000 MILES. THEY WILL NOT REPLACE IT AT 151,000 MILES BUT IT IS JUST AS DANGEROUS AND DEFECTIVE. IT TRIPLES STOPPING DISTANCE AND DOES NOT HOLD ON A HILL

CAR SHUT OFF ON A MAJOR HIGH WAY. NO POWER. ALMOST GOT HIT BY ANOTHER CAR. NEEDED TO BE TOWED HOME. FORD DEALERSHIP HAS HAD MY CAR FOR 2 WEEKS WITH NO HELP!!!!!

THE ROLL-OVER VALVE ON THE TOP OF THE FUEL TANK CRACKED ALLOWING GAS TO ESCAPE WHEN THE TANK WAS OVER HALF FULL. THE ROLLOVER VALVE IS PART OF THE TANK ASSEMBLY AND CANNOT BE REPLACED BY ITSELF. I HAD TO PURCHASE A NEW TANK ASSEMBLY FOR $1300 PLUS LABOR.