2015 HONDA ACCORD Complaints

Upon starting the car (54,000 miles) the ABS Light, Steering light, FCW, LDW, Brake light came on. After looking in the manual it was determine that the car was dangerous to drive. I did not experience anything indicating an issue with the car before this happened. I took it to Scott Clark Honda right away. The dealer preformed a diagnostic test which showed the Anti lock braking system Solenoid Value was Malfunctioning, the Electric Power Steering was experiencing a problem in the "VSA" System, the Forward Collision warning, and Lane Departure warning were showing a "VSA" Brake Actuator Malfunction. The car was underivable without getting this repaired. Because the VSA Solenoids are built inside the ABS Modulator they can not be replaces separately. The cost to repair this $2764 the part cannot be replace without a $150 Brake Fluid exchange. The initial Diagnostic fee was $30. The out of pocket expense to drive the vehicle was $2944 plus tax and shop fees. There are multiple complaints regarding the same issue. Please issue a recall. I would like Honda to reimburse me for the repair costs.

The contact owns a 2015 Honda Accord. The contact stated that while attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start. The contact had the battery charged twice due to the failure reoccurring. The dealer had been contacted and it was confirmed that the battery might have failed and that the battery needed to be replaced. The contact stated that it was also confirmed the vehicle was previously included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V418000 (Electrical System) and the repair had been completed. The contact stated that vehicles were also known to experience battery failure after having the repair completed. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and it was confirmed that the repair was not covered under warranty. The failure mileage was 90,000.

I purchased a 2015 Honda Accord Hybrid in 2015. In early April 2021, I noticed my driver’s door lock was not working. At first intermittently then not at all. I took it to my Honda dealership and paid to have it repaired. Shortly after, the other 3 actuators stopped working. This time I realized something was wrong so I spoke to my Honda dealership & they had Honda USA pay the $100 deductible on MY extended warranty. In Nov. 2023 I tried to get my grandchild out of the backseat car seat but the door would not open. I had to run around to the driver’s front door, unlock it, reach over and manually unlock the passenger’s front door and then I was able to open the back door to reach my grandchild. If this had been an emergency, even the few minutes that it took me to unlock the door could mean the difference between life and death. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY ISSSUE! I spoke with my dealership and Honda USA & they agreed to pay for most of the(5t)actuator .I was told “this is the last thing they will do for me!” As if I asked for their door actuators to be faulty. I have owned Honda’s since 1989 and have NEVER had an issue like this. Yes, parts break but not multiple times the same part. It is obviously defective. Yesterday, I tried to get my grandchild out of her car seat again and again the door would not open. I have now replaced the actuators once and am on my second round of replacing them. I Google searched and saw Honda recalled actuators for certain make and models, is there a reason someone’s life is more valuable based on the make and model they drive? I see it took a class action lawsuit to get Honda to recall the actuators on other models and provide a 7 year extended warranty on the part. I’m hopeful it won’t again take a class action lawsuit but rather your investigation to realize there are still too many faulty door actuators still in circulation. I’ve put Honda on notice but would rather it not come down to a life and death situation. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT

The contact owns a 2015 Honda Accord. The contact stated that while attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start. The contact stated that the failure occurred intermittently. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed with a failed ignition. The contact was informed that the ignition needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic where it was diagnosed with a failed ignition again and that the ignition needed to be replaced again. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

Car first started showing issues with the charge system. The car would randomly not start and would require a jump start. I replaced the battery and the car worked fine for 2 weeks and then it just wouldn't start at all. A new alternator was put in and the care drove fine for 1 month. Took it back to dealer mechanic and he said he needed a new alternator. Got the alternator replace and care worked fine 2 months and then it was back to not starting or it wouldn't accelerate pass 20 mph and the power steering light would come on and the steering wheel would lock up. The tire traction light came on as well as the check engine and battery light ABS and emergency brake light. Took it to the mechanic he replaced the terminal post and components after the car would start at all even with a jump start. The car worked fine for 3 months and then it started cutting off in the middle of traffic on the road while driving it and would not cut back on. Took to the dealer and was told that it was a camshaft sensor. The camshaft sensors was replaced and the car started cutting off while driving it on the road and the steering wheel would lock up. All lights on the dashboard would come on including the power steering wheel, tire traction, check engine, emergency brake, battery light, ABS light. Radio would cut off and reset continuously while driving and make static pops. The car will continue to cut off while driving and cut back on at times or just not restart.

Copy from another complaint, as I am having the same issue. Issue where multiple dashboard indicator lights coming on. Tire Pressure, ABS, Power Steering, and Traction Control lights specifically all on at the same time. Car typically drives fine but will intermittently not want to accelerate

ABS Control Module with well known defects. Needs to be recalled. [XXX] . Many, many customers are having this issue, including me. I was told that the part is not available after market and the Honda Genuine part was quoted to me at $3,000 with low labor cost to the repair. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

While performing a normal U-Turn at a stop sign, I turned the wheel all the way to the left. When the wheel reached it's max rotation to the left, the Power Steering light on the dash flashed for a second, but at the same time the whole car turned off and then back on. I was stopped mid-turn until the car restarted. Not knowing what happened, I continued the turn slowly and when the wheel reached the max rotation the same light flicker and car restart happened. I tested once again while parked and confirmed that when I turn the wheel completely to the left, the car restarts. My safety was put at risk due to other cars at the stop sign not anticipating my car stopping in the middle of the intersection. No accidents or injuries occured. Based on limited research, it appears this is a defect that has been reported before for my make and model of car. I have not had my car inspected at this time. There were no previous indicators (warnings, messages, or symbols), prior to the failure.

When starting the car via push button start , there is a clicking sound. The battery was replaced fuses checked and sometimes it will start on the first push other times it takes 5 minutes. I had to start my car after I had to leave my car suddenly due to needing to enter a store asap to retrieve my wallet. Upon returning, one person clearly was attempting to enter my car who saw me than left. So I had to leave the area quickly. But the car just clicked when ignition button pushed. 6 mins later I was able to start it. The car only has 36000 miles on it. But I’ve had every thing checked, alternator, battery etc. the starter is the the obvious problem

In November 2023 I began to experience difficulty starting the vehicle. The issue is the ignition switch has worn out. This issue is very random, I may start my car on average 10 times per day. It may not happen for 10 starts in a row. When it does happen, the vehicle may start after 3,5 7 tries or up to 20 including breaks in-between, different keys, etc. Key factors that have been eliminated are starter, battery and fuse. One important note I discovered today was that a mechanic on YouTube mentioned having to remove starter and add a plate to the one end, so this could be part of an electrical issue that may only be associated with another year Honda Accord specifically with a V6. This should be a SAFETY issue or at least diagnosed by Honda as it seems to be very prevalent within the brand and may occur in year #2 or #8. Having this random inoperable event happen when consumer is: 1. In a frigid snow storm rural part of America 2. In an emergency situation like medical, or safety late at night, with possible criminal entity or environment is not safe.