2016 HONDA CR-V Complaints

The engine sporadically will “skip” and then keep going. The RPMs will spoke a little when it does

The contact owns a 2016 Honda CR-V. The contact stated while driving approximately 50 MPH, the vehicle started to independently accelerate. The contact had taken her foot off the accelerator pedal; however, the vehicle was still accelerating. The contact depressed the brake pedal; however, the vehicle was still accelerating. The contact had not observed any warning lights being illuminated. The contact entered a parking lot and depressed the brake pedal with force due to the vehicle independently accelerating. The contact was able to stop and shifted the vehicle into park(P). The contact observed that the vehicle was still revving, and the RPM was rising with the engine was revving. The contact turned off and restarted the vehicle several times and was finally able to drive the vehicle under normal operating conditions. The contact stated that the failure had reoccurred. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The contact had not taken the vehicle to a local dealer or an independent mechanic. The vehicle was not diagnosed and was not repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 90,000.

MY 2016 HONDA CRV IS MAKING A RATTLING NOISE THAT SOUND LIKE ITS COMING FROM THE ENGINE WHEN I START THE CAR AND WHEN IM DRIVING IT. ACCORDING TO YOUR WEBSITE THERE IS A RECALL CAMPAIGN FOR "CERTAIN 2016 HONDAS" THAT HAVE THE SAME NOISE AS MINE THATS CAUSED BY THE CONNECTING ROD BEARING WHICH CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE. "WHY IS MY CAR NOT PART OF THIS RECALL." THIS CAR IS DRIVEN BY ME AND MY WIFE AS A FAMILY CAR. IF YOUR INVEATIGATON REVEALS THAT THE NOISE IN MY CAR IS THE SAME NOISE IN THE CARS INVOLVED IN THE RECALL THEN I AM REQUETSTING THAT THE 2016 HONDA CRV BE ADDED TO THE RECALL LIST ASAP. I HAVE HAD NO WORK DONE ON THE CAR RELATING TO THE IS NOISE. THANK YOU [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

I have been 2x stopping at light then started to start back up do to green light and lost power for a second in the gas pedal. Then it kicks in!

Engine loosing oil inside the engine. Honda dealership Lemon Grove Honda reworked the engine. New Ring Set, Gasket kit, Spark plugs, coolant, oil seal, 2 o-rings 12.6 x 2.4 and 1 o-ring other. 1/27/23 Replaced pistons rings, including cylinder head gasket and spark plugs, after replacing rings and gasket tested said 1005 good Cost for me was $4397.86. Prior to this, they replaced the gaskets and spark plugs for $800. Complained that is might be the same problem again 5/24 and they charged me $2559.14 for labor and said it was not the same problem. Then in 9/24 it was seen then on 10/4 they said the problem was the same and engine was not good anymore. Looked for help with Honda, and none was given -- just told it was my tough luck. Noted that there is a recall on Honda engines in 2016 in the paper as of today 11/11/24. This should fall within that recall as it keeps failing.

My steering jerks hard left and corrects it self it also excels been braking, cranking the wheel turns freely and the car is very unsafe to drive i can lose control of the vehicle. All emergency lights are on steering wheel light exclamation point tps light among other things.i was told the EPS systems isn't working the steering control module, steering rack and all sensors replaced honda dealership also let me know this has been a common problem with crv years 16,17,18 I have no recalls on my car presently. I also want to add my father has the same 2016 honda crv and his is failing as well. This repair is mandatory and is very expensive over 6 thousand dollars and honda is denying to call a recall for this issue. This is a major safety issue and should be brought to attention. I am very sure that are many. Many customers out there that have experienced the same thing, and that should be reimbursed for them. Selves having to pay thousands of dollars to repair their car. Unfortunately, my car is worth $9000. As it stands. That is over half the cost of the car.

The contact owns a 2016 Honda CR-V. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle briefly hesitated before losing motive power. The contact was able to pull over to the shoulder of the roadway, where the vehicle was able to be restarted. After restarting the vehicle, the vehicle returned to normal functionality, but the failure became a regular occurrence. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who diagnosed a failure with the Oxygen sensor. The vehicle was repaired, but the failure reoccurred. After investigating the failure, the contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 23V858000 (Fuel System, Gasoline), but the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 160,000.

While I was driving about 70 mph on highway, the car suddenly stopped responding to the gas paddle and I heard a noise from near the fuel tank. I was able to pull up to the side of the road and the check engine light was showing. I towed it to an Auto Repair shop in Modesto, CA and they found that the fuel pump has failed. So they replaced with an OEM part and upon examining, they found that the old fuel pump was in fact not working properly. I see that Honda has a recall for 2013-2016 CR-V relating to fuel pumps (2013-16 CR-V Fuel Pump Module Set/Assy Exp2 Stop Sale). But when I put VIN to their website, it shows that my car is not part of the recall. So I am requesting a further investigation on this recall.

I have a 2016 Honda CRV. Approx 2 years ago several electrical problems started. 1. )Radio started turning on and off on its own. 2. ) Car locks would lock and unlock on their own. I will be sitting in car and the car would lock and unlock on its own approx 4-5 times and then stop. It would also happen when I would get out of the car and lock the door and as soon as I walked away I could hear it unlock again and it did not matter if I locked it on the door panel or use the key FOB. I thought at first maybe I am doing something wrong, but it has also happened to my husband multiple times. This could be a safety issue, not knowing if its locked or unlocked my child could open the door while I am driving. Also someone could get into my car. 3.) My car battery started losing juice frequently. I would have to jump it, and now this is happening approx every 6 weeks. 4.) The Key FOB also juices out frequently and I have had to replace it multiple times and batteries are not cheap. I have been stranded 4 times at night and I beleive it was a risk to my personal safety. I have taken it to a independent service for the locks but they could not duplicate and told me it would be expensive to check the electrical system to first see if there were any electrical recalls first. I have read all the complaints on your site and there are over 60 electrical complaints. Many in regards to the Car's Battery discharging. One person talked about the seat position would move on its own, another said their headlights would turn off and on. Although there are many different electrical complaints they are all electrical related and warrant an investigation. As a consumer it is very fustrating as the price for buying and fixing a car is expensive. I don't know what it takes to have a recall but I hope NHTSA does the right thing especially when people are losing faith in big companies/agencies. Thank you

The drivers side door unlocks on its own after I have locked the door and start walking away from the vehicle. It is not suppose to open until after I have grasped the handle to open it when it has been locked. I can hear it unlock when I am outside the vehicle and somewhere in the vicinity of 10 feet away from the vehicle. I can have it available for inspection at any time. This problem causes the battery to drain and the vehicle won't start. The dead battery has happened to me twice (once in an airport parking lot and once at home). I have researched this on the internet and it is a common problem for the vehicle (both the unlocking and subsequent draining of the battery). The safety issue is, if this were to happen in a situation where conditions were such that I couldn't get my car started and I needed to escape an assailant that's trying to do harm to me or other passengers (children) in my vehicle. Another scenario could be needing to be able to drive away from any dangerous situation (stuck in a desert in extreme heat, a forest fire, etc...). The list could be endless. You need to be able to start your car when necessary. It hasn't been inspected by a dealer but I have contacted them twice about this issue. I haven't had it inspected by anyone. Many people have had this same problem and the repair at dealer is roughly $700 dollars. I think they have to replace the door lock actuator. There were no warnings, messages or other symptoms before it first happened. The problem first happened in April/May of 2024.