2016 HYUNDAI VELOSTER Complaints

The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated his daughter was driving and was at a stoplight. The driver was making a right turn when the vehicle lost motive power and the vehicle stalled lost power. The driver was able to restart the vehicle and slowly pulled the vehicle into a parking lot and parked. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact had to pick up the vehicle the next day and have it towed to their residence and then towed to an independent mechanic to inspect the vehicle and failure was related to an internal issue with the engine making abnormal noise. The contact had the vehicle towed to a local dealer who diagnosed the failure as related to the catalytic converter and damage to the engine where it would need to be replaced. The dealer also inform the contact the failure could be related to an NHTSA Campaign Number: 20V746000 (engine), however, the VIN was not included in the recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 59,270.

Cruising on freeway ~70 mph when car starts slowing due to lack of power- for unknown reason car went into "limp mode", with turbo boost pressure and power cut off, barely enough power to keep car at 60 mph in order to make it to freeway exit to pull off. This could have caused serious collision. Turned off car, let it sit 1 min, turned it back on, and problem seemed to go away. No Check Engine Light, no OBD2 codes. Limp mode sometimes occur during harsh shifts but releasing throttle and reengaging usually fixes it but this time needed to shut off the car. Has been reported to dealer but they can't reproduce consistently and no CEL/codes so they won't try to find a fix. But losing power for no apparent reason on freeway definitely dangerous situation.

The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken to the dealer for the recall repair of NHTSA Campaign Number: 20V746000 (Engine) and the dealer-installed a software update containing a new Knock Sensor Detection System; however, while driving 35 MPH, the vehicle began to stall. The check engine warning light illuminated. The contact was able to push the vehicle to the side of the road with assistance. The vehicle was towed to the dealer who diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. Then, the vehicle was taken to a transmission specialist who diagnosed that the transmission was in great condition; however, the engine was not communicating with the transmission. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who completed a transmission relearn; however, the vehicle was sluggish while accelerating from a complete stop. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer who diagnosed that there were metal shavings in the engine oil, the engine was knocking loudly, and there was a significant amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust. The dealer reset the Knock Sensor Detection System software. The contact stated that the failure had been reoccurring and the vehicle would not exceed 45 MPH. The vehicle was taken to a second dealer - Hyundai of Yuma (1125 E 32nd St, Yuma, AZ 85365) who diagnosed that the engine needed to be replaced. The second dealer sent a diagnostic report to the manufacturer and requested a new engine; however, the manufacturer denied the request due to the vehicle having a salvage title. The contact stated that only the rear end of the vehicle was reconstructed as the vehicle was involved in a crash. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 58,900.

- When it shifts from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd gear, the RPMs will keep going up until I take my foot off the gas. So if I need to merge onto a highway quickly and it stalls in one gear, it can go up to 6k or 7k RPMs without shifting. I never let it get past it because I take my foot off the gas to let it shift because I'm afraid it will blow something. - When in automatic and at a stop, if you go, it will sometimes rev up a little high before shifting and also pull a lot faster versus other times when it shifts normally. To keep me on my toes, it will sometimes do the opposite and not accelerate very well at all. Almost like I press the gas and nothing happens until it's pressed all the way and then it will go. - The tachometer will lag on what RPM the engine is actually on. So you'll know it's clearly at 3k but it will only read on 1k for a few seconds before quickly going up to what it's supposed to be on. - There's also a knocking noise when my car is idling for a little while. It's every 5 to 10 minutes there's a loud knock coming from the engine. - I also understand when driving slow, for example like a drive-thru, DCT don't typically like that. But when I am in a line like that or traffic, it will stutter as if it's about to stall or shut off completely. And not like a light shake, it was very noticeable that everyone felt as if it was going to sputter and turn off. With these multiple issues, it makes me and my passengers feel extremely unsafe and it's concerning that anytime I've taken it to the dealership it's shrugged off by saying the DCT transmissions sometimes "act weird". I'm not sure how that's an answer to something that is pretty dangerous.

Vehicle in service and has none functioning air bag. Not covered under warranty nor the extended warranty that I purchased This is a safety and risk issue for myself and others that would drive the vehicle.

Engine has a very noticeable engine ticking just like every other 1.6 included in the Hyundai recall yet my engine isn’t included in the recall. How can my 2016 have the same issue yet not require a recall notice

Engine knocking loudly on cold start indicating possible rod bearing wear addressed on nhtsa safety recall number 20v746000. Car was taken to hyundai dealer for recall engine inspection and given clean bill of health and removed from recall listing. Vehicle was at the dealership for less than an hour which is not enough time to do the necessary inspection for rod bearing wear. Knock sensor software was updated, but knock sensors are designed to detect piston clatter or knock, known as preignition. Knock sensors do not and cannot detect engine noise from worn rod bearings. The inspection method obviously did not include any actual mechanical measurement for bearing runout to determine actual wear, but instead was based on what the tech could hear and his personal determination or that of his superior. I contend my car is still at risk for early engine failure as outlined in the safety recall and should be reinstated for a proper inspection.

While I was driving down the road I suddenly heard a rod knock coming from the engine. I immediately pulled over and turned the car off. I was fortunate that I am aware of this known problem and can recognize the symptoms. An oil warning like appeared after the sound of the rod knock and just before I turned the engine off. I was on a local highway at the time and knew that the rod knock would likely result in an engine fire if I did not turn it off immediately. I checked the oil on the car and found that it was suddenly very low, which came as a surprise because I had just checked the oil a couple days before. I have since read that a common symptom associated with the Hyundai engine problems is sudden excessive oil consumption. After contacting Hyundai and insisting that this is a known problem with the 2016 Veloster Turbo they inspected the engine and confirmed the rod bearing was worn and the rod was knocking. They refused to acknowledge that ANY 2016 Velosters had been recalled for engine problems and refused to discuss it further. Since my car was still under warranty, the most they would agree to was partially covering the repair under warranty because I had modified the air intake on the car. To exacerbate the scenario, it took over 3 months for the local dealership to complete the repairs which were completed in just a few hours.

I own a 2016 Hyundai Veloster, and the Manual heater control unit only works on certain numbers. I haven’t had it checked out. But I first noticed it when I purchased the car. Sometimes the heater or air will just turn off. I know there was a recall for the same models but for 2015.

The engine light began flashing and it was hard to drive without the car loosing speed like it was stalling out when I pressed the gas it did not get power. It smelled like burnt gas or oil and fumes where coming from under the hood. I have had it for 2 months. When I took it to autozone the code read P1326. I dont understand why other same year make and models are recalled and not this one. I will not be able to drive it because other same make and model recalls say there is potential for fire.