2006 MAZDA MAZDA6 Complaints

THE LOW BEAM HEADLAMPS ON MY 2006 MAZDA 6 HAVE REPEATEDLY GONE OUT ON MY IN THE PAST YEAR. MANY TIMES WHILE DRIVING. THIS LAST TIME I TRIED TO REPLACE THE LOW BEAM HEADLAMP AND THE BULB WAS NOT BLOWN. I INSERTED THE NEW BULB AND IT STILL DOESN'T WORK. THIS IS A PROBLEM FOR MAZDA 6'S AND 3'S MY PARENTS ARE GOING ON THEIR 9 BULB IN THE MAZDA 3. ACCORDING TO MANY MAZDA FORUMS THIS IS A RECURRING PROBLEM FOR A NUMBER OF OTHER OWNERS AS WELL. THIS MUST BE ADDRESSED DRIVING AT NIGHT IS DIFFICULT ENOUGH BUT WHEN YOUR LIGHTS GO OUT IT MAKES IT DOWN RIGHT DANGEROUS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA MAZDA6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING, THE LINING FROM THE ROOF OF THE VEHICLE FELL AND BLOCKED THE CONTACT'S VISION. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A LOCAL MECHANIC WHERE THE ROOF LINING WAS GLUED IN PLACE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000. *TR UPDATED 08/06/13*LJ THE CONSUMER STATED THAT THE DEALER ADVISED THIS HAS BEEN AN ONGOING FAILURE WITH 2004-2008 MAZDAS. UPDATED 08/05/2013 *JS

AT 75,000 AND LIGHT DRIVING, THE CAR WOULD 'CLUNK' HARD WHEN IT SLOWED. THE DEALER TOOK 3 HOURS AND 500 DOLLARS TO FIX AN ENGINE MOUNT BOLT. ALSO THEY SAID THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON. TWO OXYGEN SENSORS ARE OUT AND WANTED A FEW HUNDRED DOLLARS MORE. SADLY DISAPPOINTED IN THIS LIGHTLY MAZDA 6 V6 2006 CAR! THE ENGINE MOUNT BOLTS WOULD HAVE BEEN HORRIBLE IF THE ENGINE FELL IN TRAFFIC. *TR

PRESSED CLUTCH IN LOUD NOISE HEARD THEN GRINDING. PEDAL STUCK TO FLOOR WHILE IN TRAFFIC. CAR I HAD HAPPILY OWNED 2 MAZDA 6 2006 SEDAN AND WAGON AND WAS CONSIDERING ANOTHER WHEN THE DIESEL COMES OUT. THAT WAS LAST WEEK. THIS WEEK WITHOUT WARNING THE CLUTCH PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR AND MADE A LOUD BANG GRINDING NOISE. CAR HAS EXTENDED WARRANTY FROM MAZDA WE HAD TOLD MAZDA FOR OVER A YEAR HARD TO GET INTO REVERSE AND 1-2 CHATTER NOISE BUT NEVER GOT ANY RESOLUTION ON THIS. TOOK CAR IN DEALER SAID IT WOULD BE A CLUCTH WHICH IS NOT COVERED I WAS NOT HAPPY BUT SOMEWHAT OK WITH THAT. IT TURNS OUT THAT WENT THE PART FAILED THROWOUT BEARING IT DESTROYED THE TRANSMISSION AND THAT IS NOT COVERED (MAZDA CUSTOMER SERVICE MUST KNOW ABOUT THE PROBLEM AS THEY TELL YOU NOT COVERED AND BASICALLY HANG UP ON YOU. SAME WITH MEPP WHICH I PAID A GREAT DEAL OF MONEY FOR BUMPER TO BUMPER EXTENDED TOTAL CARE WHICH IS SUPPOSED TO COVER MANUAL TRANS BUT SOMEHOW DOES NOT. GETTING RID OF BOTH CARS AND MAY HAVE TO JUNK MY OTHER CAR WHICH WENT FROM BEING WORTH 10K TO 0. IN AN INSTANT BY A BEARING WHICH SHOULD BE COVERED. DON"T BUY MAZDA THEY DON'T STAND BEHIND THE PRODUCT. ALWAYS DEALER SERVICED AND JUST WAS SERVICED AND PASSED MAZDA (GREEN LIGHT THING THEY GIVE YOU EVERY TIME IT'S SERVICED MAKING YOU FEEL LIKE IT'S ALL GOOD WHICH IS A LIE. 3000.00 TO REPLACE THE CLUTCH IS INSANE IT'S NOT A SKYLINE GTR. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA MAZDA6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE INSPECTING THE VEHICLE IT WAS FOUND THAT THE ROTORS WERE RUSTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A MECHANIC OR THE DEALER FOR INSPECTION OR REPAIRS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 10,000.

INTERNAL TRANSMISSION/DIFFERENTIAL PROBLEM CAUSED HOLE IN BELL HOUSING, CAUSING TRANSMISSION FLUID TO LEAK OUT. APPARENTLY FROM THE MESSAGE BOARDS, THIS IS HAPPENING A LOT. AND CONSUMER REPORTS SHOWS A BLACK CIRCLE FOR THE DRIVE TRAIN ON THE 2006 MODEL YEAR. WHY NO RECALL? *TR

WHEN ACCELERATING OR CLIMBING ENOUGH TO INVOKE A DOWNSHIFT, THE TRANSMISSION OCCASIONALLY SLIPS OR DISENGAGES CAUSING VERY HIGH RPM, FOLLOWED BY A SUDDEN DOWNSHIFT AND VERY HARD JERK. IT ALMOST FEELS LIKE BEING HIT FROM BEHIND. THIS FAILURE POSES AN EXTREME REAR END COLLISION HAZARD. MAZDA HAS ISSUED TSB 05-016/06 TO DEAL WITH THIS PROBLEM BUT MY DEALER INFORMED ME THAT MAZDA NOW RECOMMENDS A COMPLETE TRANSMISSION CHANGE IN LIEU OF A VALVE BODY CHANGE RECOMMENDED BY THE TSB. THIS TRANSMISSION SHOULD BE RECALLED, IT'S UNSAFE. *KB

TL* THE CONTACT WANTED OWNS A 2006 MAZDA MAZDA6. THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING 30 MPH WHEN THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS MALFUNCTIONED. THE ALARM SOUNDED, THE WINDOWS OPENED AND CLOSED, AND THE DOOR LOCKED ON THEIR OWN. THE CONTACT DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY AND CALLED THE MANUFACTURER. THE MANUFACTURER SUGGESTED THE CONTACT TAKE THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE CONTACT DID NOT TAKE THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER. THE CONTACT STATED THE VEHICLE WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE BECAUSE THE VEHICLE COULD LOCK THE OCCUPANTS INSIDE THE VEHICLE IN THE EVENT OF AN EMERGENCY. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 81,000.

CAR WOULDN'T START SO WE WERE GOING TO HAVE IT JUMP STARTED. THE CABLES ON THE BATTERY WERE BURNT AND THERE WAS EVIDENCE OF BATTERY ACID ON OTHER PARTS OF THE ENGINE. THE CAR WAS UNDER WARRANTY AND WAS REPAIRED BY THE DEALERSHIP AFTER SEVERAL PHONE CALLS. NOW, I JUST RECENTLY NOTICED A FUNNY ODOR AND THE VINYL ON THE LEFT FRONT DOOR APPEARED TO BE MELTING AND THE BUTTONS WOULD NOT WORK THE WINDOWS. I TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC WHERE HE SHOWED ME THAT THE WIRING HARNESS AND SWITCH WAS COMPLETELY BURNED UP. FORTUNATELY THIS DID NOT HAPPEN WHILE DRIVING AND START A FIRE. UNFORTUNATELY THE VEHICLE IS NO LONGER COVERED BY THE WARRANTY SO I WILL HAVE TO PAY OUT OF POCKET FOR THE REPAIRS. MY MECHANIC SAID THAT HE HAS NEVER SEEN THIS HAPPEN BEFORE AND THERE PROBABLY NO WAY OF DETECTING THIS AHEAD OF TIME. *TR

WHEN ACCELERATING, THE CAR SUDDENLY HAS NO POWER, THEN SHIFTS HARD DOWN, TYPICALLY IT HAPPENS SHIFTING INTO 3RD OR 4TH GEAR. UNDER ABOUT A HALF PEDAL, IT BASICALLY FEELS LIKE A STALL, THEN JERKS YOU BACKWARDS, HARD AS IT KICKS INTO GEAR AND ACCELERATES. I'M TOLD THERE IS A SERVICE BULLETIN THAT THERE ARE TRANSMISSION FAILURES FOR THIS CAR. UNFORTUNATELY, WE ARE OUT OF WARRANTY. *TT