2010 SUBARU OUTBACK Complaints

THE VEHICLE WAS IN NEUTRAL, ENGINE RUNNING WITH PARKING BRAKE SET (ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE IN THE 2010), THE MECHANIC GOT OUT OF THE CAR ON THE LEVEL CRUSHED GRAVEL PARKING LOT IN THE MIDDLE OF A BEAUTIFUL SUNNY AFTERNOON AND ALLOWED MYSELF TO GET IN THE DRIVERS SEAT. I HAVE NEVER BEEN ABLE TO DISENGAGE THE PARKING BRAKE WITHOUT IT FLASHING NON STOP UNLESS I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND RESTARTED IT, THEN DISENGAGE THE PARKING BRAKE. ON THIS SPECIFIC DAY, I GOT INTO MY VEHICLE ATTEMPTED TO DISENGAGE THE PARKING BRAKE IT STILL WAS SET WITH LIGHT ON. I TURNED OFF THE VEHICLE, RESTARTED IT AND DISENGAGED THE PARKING BRAKE AND IT IMMEDIATELY STARTED FLASHING. THE BRAKE WAS DISENGAGED; HOWEVER, THE LIGHT REMAINED ON. RETURNED IT TO MY MECHANIC AND HE STATED THAT HE WAS NOT FAMILIAR WITH THE ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE HOWEVER, IT WAS NOT WORKING AT ALL NOR WOULD IT WOULD WORK. YOU COULD HEAR THE LITTLE MOTOR RUNNING BUT NOTHING WOULD HAPPEN. I BROUGHT MY VEHICLE UP TO A SUBARU DEALERSHIP IN HOPES THAT THEY WOULD STAND BEHIND A POORLY DESIGNED PIECE OF EQUIPMENT ON THEIR PRODUCT WHICH AS A CONSUMER SHOULD HAVE LASTED MORE THAN 7 YEARS. I WAS TOLD THE PARKING BRAKE MODULE PART NEEDS TO BE ORDERED FOR $800 PLUS TAX. THIS IS VERY DISCOURAGING GIVEN TH RIDICULOUS COST OF SOMETHING YOUR VEHICLE IS REQUIRED TO HAVE FOR STATE INSPECTION. IT SEEMS OBVIOUS THAT THIS ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE WAS NOT A GOOD PRODUCT AS THEY ONLY PLACED THEM ON 2010-2012. I FEEL THAT THIS IS SOMETHING THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD STAND BEHIND.

2015 SUBARU OUTBACK. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO REIMBURSEMENT FOR VEHICLE REPAIRS. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED THE REAR BEARINGS WERE GONE AT 65,000 MILES. THE PURCHASED TIRED WER BALD AT 25,000 MILES. THE CONSUMER BELIEVES THIS SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. *JS

VEHICLE STARTED ACTING AS THOUGH IT WAS GOING TO STALL AT STOP SIGNS AND RED LIGHTS. ALL DASHBOARD LIGHTS THEN BECAME LIT UP. TOOK TO MY PLACE OF DEALERSHIP AND UPON CHECKING TRANSMISSION FLUID, THEY DESCRIBED IT AS SMELLING VERY FOUL AND WAS TOLD I NEED A NEW TRANSMISSION. CAR IS A 2010 SUBARU OUTBACK WITH 120,000 MILES. THE CHEAPEST I COULD FIND FOR NEW TRANSMISSION WAS 6000.00. THOUGHT IT WAS A JOKE AT FIRST, BUT WAS TOLD THE FIRST CALL THEY MADE IT WAS 7000.00. THE TRANSMISSION SPECIALIST CALLED THE CVT SUBARU TRANSMISSION "THE THROW AWAY TRANSMISSION' AS NO ONE EVER REPLACES THEM AT THAT COST. I HAVE ALWAYS OWNED CHEVY VEHICLES UNTIL I FELL IN LOVE WITH THE OUTBACK. NEEDLESS TO SAY I AM VERY DISAPPOINTED IN THIS VEHICLE.NO MORE SUBARUS FOR ME!!!

I REPLACED THE ORIGINAL TIRES IN SEPTEMBER 2013 WITH YOKOHAMA YK580S (225/60 R17). THE MILEAGE AT THE TIME OF REPLACEMENT WAS 49,577. THIS WEEK THE VEHICLE DEVELOPED A STRONG VIBRATION WHILE IN MOTION WHICH WAS CAUSED BY A BULGE OVER APPROXIMATELY 15 OF THE TREAD SURFACE OF THE TIRE POSITIONED ON THE RIGHT FRONT WHEEL. THE TIRE AIR PRESSURE HAS REMAINED CONSTANT DURING THIS STRUCTURAL DEGRADATION. THE MILEAGE ON THE VEHICLE AT THE TIME OF THIS OCCURRENCE WAS 90,233. THE TREAD REMAINING ON THE IMPACTED TIRE IS APPROXIMATELY 3/16", AND THE DOT MANUFACTURE CODE IS 83C1512.

SOFTWARE UPDATE REQUIRED THAT IS NOT COVER BY RECALL. IF NOT UPDATED, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, BRAKE LIGHT, TRACTION CONTROL, AND CRUSE LIGHT BLINK.

I BOUGHT THIS VECHICLE NEW IN 2010. SINCE THAT TIME I HAVE HAD TO CHANGE THE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS 4 TIMES ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE AND 5 TIMES ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. I CONSIDER THIS A SAFETY HAZARD AS IT TAKES ALMOST 1 1/2 HOURS TO CHANGE THE BULB. YOU MUST REMOVE THE WHEEL, THE WHEEL WELL, THEN THE WATER PROOF COVER, THE SMALL RETAINING BRACKET AND THEN DISCONNECT THE BULB ALL THROUGH AN OPENING ONLY A CHILD HAND COULD FIT THROUGH EASILY. I HAVE NEVER HAD BOTH LIGHTS GO OUT AT THE SAME TIME, HOWEVER, ON A DARK MOUNTAIN ROAD THIS COULD BE LIFE THREATENING. THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED WAS ONLY 3 MONTHS AFTER ACQUIRING THE VEHICLE AND THE LAST TIME WAS 2 WEEKS AGO.

PADDLE SHIFTERS ON STEERING WHEEL ARE NOT WORKING. WHEN DOWNSHIFT IS APPLIED WITH PADDLE, NOTHING HAPPENS OR VEHICLE UPSHIFTS (VEHICLE IN MOTION.) SPORADIC LOSS OF RADIO, HORN, COMPASS AND OTHER ELECTRICAL FUNCTIONS WHEN STARTING CAR AND CONTINUING WHILE DRIVING. REFER TO NHTSA CAMPAIGN # 10V283000 DATED 6/24/2010. MFR CAMPAIGN WVR-28.

CAR FEELS LIKE IT'S GOING TO STALL OUT AT A STOP. THIS BEEN OCCURRING NOW FOR A YEAR. THE PROBLEM IS GETTING WORSE. WHEN TO SUBARU, AND, BECAUSE IT DIDN'T HAPPEN WHEN THEY WERE DRIVING THE CAR, THE DIDN'T DO ANYTHING. MY MECHANIC SAYS HE IS SEEING THIS PROBLEM A LOT WITH THIS CAR, AND IT'S A TORQUE CONVERTOR ISSUE. IT'S SCARY AND POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS.

THE CAR SHUTTERS OR STALLS WHEN COMING TO A STOP, BOTH REGULAR OR SUDDEN STOP. IT HAPPENS WHEN I PULL UP TO A STOP SIGN, LIGHT OR NEED TO STOP IN HIGHWAY TRAFFIC. IT HAS HAPPENED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS GIVING ME REASON FOR CONCERN FOR MY LIFE AND THE LIVES OF MY PASSENGERS. SUBARU HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM AS A TORQUE CONVERTER. I ALSO HAVE THE DIAGNOSIS OF A FAULTY TORQUE CONVERTER FROM AN INDEPENDENT AUTO MECHANIC. THIS IS A COSTLY REPAIR DUE TO IT'S PROXIMITY TO THE TRANSMISSION.

WHEN COMING TO A STOP THE CAR STALLS. THIS HAPPENS MORE FREQUENTLY GOING UP HILLS. IT HAPPENS MOST OFTEN JUST AS THE CAR IS NEARING NO MOTION OR NO LONGER IN MOTION. A QUICK STOP WILL MAKE IT HAPPEN MORE FREQUENTLY THAN A SLOW GRADUAL STOP. IT DOESN'T MAKE A DIFFERENCE IF THE CAR IS WARMED UP OR IF IT HAS BEEN RUNNING A FREE MINUTES. THE CAR CAN BE GOING STRAIGHT OR TURNING. A SHUDDER CAN BE FELT THEN THE CAR STALLS. THIS HAPPENS SEVERAL TIMES A WEEK. I THINK IT MAY BE THE TORQUE CONVERTER OR SOMETHING IN THE TRANSMISSION. I DON'T THINK IT IS SOMETHING WITH THE FUEL DELIVERY.