2012 TOYOTA PRIUS PLUG-IN HYBRID Complaints

MY 2012 PLUG-IN PRIUS CAME UP WITH A C1391 CODE. THE ABS, BRAKE AND BRAKE SKID LIGHTS CAME ON. I HAVE NO RE-GEN BRAKING AND WHEN I ACTUALLY BRAKE IT SEEMS VERY SLUGGISH.

WHILE STOPPED IN A PARKING LOT, FOOT BRAKE PRESSED,TRANSMISSION IN DRIVE, WHEN OPENING DRIVERS DOOR AND FOOT BRAKE RELEASED CAR STILL MOVES FORWARD. IT SHOULD GO INTO PARK AUTOMATIC BUT DOES NOT.

HEADLIGHTS KEEP BURNING OUT. BOTH SIDES. ABOUT EVERY FOUR MONTHS. THIS IS DANGEROUS!!! AND UNNECESSARILY EXPENSIVE!!!

AUTO STOPPED. ENGINE RUNNING. BRAKE PEDAL PRESSED. TRANSMISSION IN DRIVE. WHEN OPENING DRIVER DOOR AND RELEASING BRAKE PEDAL, CAR MOVES FORWARD. VIN INCLUDED IN ATTACHED FILE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 TOYOTA PRIUS PLUG-IN HYBRID. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 55 MPH, THE ECO MODE SHOWED LESS FUEL PER MILE. THERE WAS NO WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO NALLEY TOYOTA OF ROSWELL (404-994-5422, LOCATED AT 11130 ALPHARETTA HWY, ROSWELL, GA 30076) TO BE DIAGNOSED, BUT THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DETERMINED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE BEGAN AFTER IT WAS REPAIRED PER NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V718000 (HYBRID PROPULSION SYSTEM). THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND PROVIDED CASE NUMBER: 1812050132. THE CONTACT WAS REFERRED TO NHTSA. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 105,000.

I'M DRIVING AROUND 60MPH AND SUDDENLY THE ELECTRONIC STABILITY CONTROL LIGHT WENT ON AND THE ALL WHEELS SUDDENLY BRAKED. IT'S JUST SO DANGEROUS, GOOD THING NO BODY BEHIND ME AT THAT MOMENT. THIS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES. THE CAR COULD BRAKE SUDDENLY BY ITSELF WITHOUT WARNING EVEN WHEN IT'S HIGH SPEED OR LOW SPEED. THERE'S A CLICKING NOISE UNDER THE DASHBOARD. THIS IS BECAUSE OF THE MALFUNCTION OF ELECTRONIC STABILITY CONTROL IN THE PRIUS. IT COULD CAUSE THE CAR BRAKE BY ITSELF WITHOUT WARNING AND COULD CAUSE BIG ACCIDENT, ESPECIALLY IN THE FREEWAY.

NOTHING HAPPENED YET, BUT I AM CONCERNED ABOUT NUMEROUS REPORTS OF THE INVERTER FAILING AND CAUSING SUDDEN LOSS OF POWER. I UNDERSTAND THIS IS STILL HAPPENING DESPITE AFFECTED CARS HAVING RECEIVED A SOFTWARE UPDATE TO "PREVENT" THE ISSUE. DURING AN EMERGENCY, REGENERATIVE SYSTEMS PREVENT THESE CARS FROM SWIFTLY COASTING OUT OF THE TRAVEL LANE AS OTHER CARS WOULD DO. INSTEAD, THE CAR WILL ACT LIKE THE BRAKES HAVE BEEN SLAMMED ON, CAUSING A SERIOUS HAZARD. I READ ABOUT THIS HERE HTTPS://TOYOTATALK.COM/TOYOTA-PRIUS-HYBRID-INVERTER/

ENGINE OIL GETTING TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. AND FILLING UP WITH OIL. THROTTLE BODY GETS REALLY DIRTY WITH OIL. IN TURN THE ENGINE BURNS OIL. WHICH CLOGS UP THE EGR SYSTEM. THE ENGINE WOULD OVER HEAT WHICH COULD CAUSE THE HEAD GASKET TO BLOW. DURING WINTER MONTHS. ENGINE RESTARTS WOULD BE HARSH BECAUSE IT WOULD HAVE CONDESAION ON THE CYCLINDER THIS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO BLOW. BROKEN CONNECTING RODS. BLOWN HEAD GASKET ALL SORT OF THINGS COULD HAPPEN FROM HAVING OIL GET TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. STARTING FROM 2010 THESE PRIUS SUFFER FROM THIS AND TOYOTA HASNT DONE ANYTHING OTHER THEN SUPPSODELLY REDESIGNING THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. WHICH IS THE SAME. TOYOTA JUST DONT WANT TO DEAL WITH IT.

THE ACTUATORS FOR THE LOCKS ON 3 OF THE DOORS HAVE FAILED OVER TIME. I HAVE REPLACED THE FRONT-DRIVER SIDE ACTUATOR ONCE PREVIOUSLY AND IT STARTED TO FAIL FIRST. WHEN I LOCK THE CAR, I ONLY HAVE ONE DOOR THAT UNLOCKS WHICH IS THE REAR-PASSENGER DOOR. IF IT FAILS, I WILL BE LOCKED OUT OF THE CAR. IT SEEMS WRONG THAT I CANNOT UNLOCK MY CAR WELL. IT SEEMS WRONG THIS HAS FAILED MULTIPLE TIMES ON A 6YR OLD CAR. IT IS DEFECTIVE AND POTENTIALLY UNSAFE.

I RECENTLY HAD A REPAIR SERVICE DONE ON MY PRIUS PLUG-IN, BUT CAN'T IN GOOD CONSCIOUS UNDERSTAND WHY I HAD TO PAY $756 TO GET INTO MY CAR. I PURCHASED MY 2012 TOYOTA PRIUS PLUG-IN IN JULY, 2012. THREE AND A HALF YEARS LATER, I HAD TO HAVE THE DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR REPLACED @ 51K MILES. LESS THAN TWO AND A HALF YEARS LATER, THE SAME DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR HAD TO BE REPLACED @ APPROXIMATELY 80K MILES ' IN ADDITION TO ALL THREE OTHER DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS. ROUGHLY SIX MONTHS AGO, THE RIGHT, REAR DOOR LOCK STOPPED WORKING. THEN THE LEFT REAR STOPPED WORKING. THEN THE DRIVER'S DOOR (WHICH WAS NOTICED ON MY LAST SERVICE VISIT). AND FINALLY THE PASSENGER DOOR LOCK. THIS CAR DOES NOT HAVE A KEY TO UNLOCK THE DRIVER'S DOOR, ONLY AN ELECTRONIC FOB. AS A RESULT, I HAVE BEEN CLIMBING THOUGH MY REAR HATCH TO REACH THE RIGHT REAR DOOR LOCK, TO UNLOCK THAT DOOR, TO THEN REACH IN TO THE RIGHT FRONT DOOR LOCK; AT WHICH POINT I CAN OPEN THE RIGHT FRONT DOOR AND REACH OVER TO UNLOCK THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR. NOT ONLY IS THIS RIDICULOUS AND EMBARRASSING, AS I'VE HAD TO DO THIS IN FRONT OF CO-WORKERS, AND CONSULTANTS I'VE HAD TO DRIVE TO MEETINGS WITH AT MY COMPANY, BUT IT'S INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS. I WON'T HAVE MY DAUGHTER OR WIFE DRIVE THE CAR, SINCE THEY CAN'T SAFELY UNLOCK OR ENTER THE CAR. SO HERE I AM, HAVING SPENT $756 TO BE ABLE TO ENTER MY CAR, SINCE THERE IS NO KEY OPTION, AND IN FACT IT'S THE SECOND TIME IN LESS THAN 30K MILES TO REPLACE THE DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR.