2011 BUICK REGAL Complaints

Front subframe rotted out where my control arm connects. Cannot safetly drive. There should be a recall on this part. There isnt one so now im stuck paying to fix it. Rear coil spring cracked, cannot fix due to recall of all gm coil spring. Cannot buy new part to fix it.

Moisture has been collecting in both headlight assemblies for the past 3 years, whenever the car is outside or driven in the rain. Recently, this caused both high/low beam headlights to burn out. Replacing the bulbs is not enough, as the bulbs immediately burn out/smoke and blow out because of the water accumulation. On the driver side headlight, there was actually standing water in the headlight assembly that came pouring out when the cover was removed to replace the bulb. Dealership says both headlight assemblies must be replaced entirely to resolve the issue, due to corrosion. The vehicle has never been in an accident (there are NO cracks from collision, etc.). This appears to be a manufacturing defect or an issue with seal. This is a crazy expensive repair, to have to have the entire headlights replaced on the vehicle, on both sides, because they are not properly sealed/allow condensation and accumulation of water to take place. Can GM please cover the cost of this? Otherwise, this might be the last GM car I ever buy... This is also a major safety issue, as one must have working headlamps. Without an entirely new headlight assembly on each side, the lightbulbs, when replaced, burn out unexpectedly almost immediately, within weeks of replacement.

After heavy rain in mid-September 2022, both headlights just stopped working. The dashboard will usually display a warning or pop up symbol that something is not working, but I had no warning and got pulled over driving at dusk with no headlights. There has been been other issues with this vehicle too! The other issues include: Bluetooth connection not working at all, the transmission has “jerking” issues while changing gears and the engine revving too high while only going 30mph while driving in suburban Massachusetts. The car has less than 70k miles, these issues should not be happening. The main issue is the headlights, considering they cost around $200/ea and just stopped working with no notice.

Driving 50km per hr, went over railway crossing, then the car became unstable, rear felt loose as if it was drifting. Stopped the car had a look under the cars driver side rear end, and noticed the bar connecting tire the rest of vehicle was fractured, don't know the exact name of it. The car only has a out 145000 km on it. I live in Canada. The consumer has stated that the rear tow link was the part that was broken.

I was driving on a back road when my car started smoking and blazed up on passenger side headlights an I see were people have been saying this was seriously fire issue now I'm out of work no car and I was only owner fa 5 months

MIL Lamp is illuminated and cannot be turned off or reset. The code displayed on the scanner is for P2138 "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch D/E Voltage Correlation." There is also a "Reduced Engine Power" message on the dashboard. Available for inspection upon request. My safety was put at risk before the vehicle was serviced because the car shut down in the middle of the street with cars behind me. I called a certified mechanic to successfully service the vehicle and he cleared the code. My safety was put at risk again after the car was serviced because the code came back on as I was driving on the highway. Car lost power and speed and as I tried to get the car pulled over with emergency lights on, I was almost hit from behind by 2 other drivers. Problem can be reproduced within 10 minutes. Per the mechanic's request, I am taking my car to a Buick Century GMC dealership on 7/16 @ 12 PM to be serviced. Warning symptoms before code came on happened especially during times of rainfall. Car hesitated to pick up speed. Overconsumption of gas resulting in decreased mileage.

Headlight assembly case on both passenger and driver side fills with condensation and then causes headlight bulb and/or ballast to burnout ,this also could cause a fire

The contact owns a 2011 Buick Regal. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 25 MPH, there was a squeaking noise coming from the wheels and the vehicle was driving very loosely. The contact noticed that the lower control arm in the rear of the vehicle was fractured. The contact was a certified mechanic and diagnosed that the rear suspension needed to be replaced. The dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 180,000.

2011 Buick Regal 2.0 CXL. The brake pedal is sticking, causing the rotors to heat up and wear out. There are numerous complaints from others online detailing the dangerous situations this has caused. And numerous complaints about getting the brake system replaced and the same problem still existing. There should have been a recall. Unknown to me, until I received the new title in my name, this particular car was branded a "Lemon" in 2014.

In July of 2018, the brake pedal started to stick in the "on" position. The car was not driveable once the brakes stuck. It seemed to be associated with very hot weather. I replaced the entire brake pedal assembly with a factory brake pedal assembly. Now, in January of 2022, the replacement assembly is starting to bind. This appears to be a defective part. There are many postings on the internet about this problem. It is a safety defect because it involves the vehicle's brakes and the car is not driveable when the pedal sticks.