1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN Complaints

I HAD THREE BLOW OUTS AND ONE INCIDENT WHERE THE TIRE LOST ALL AIR WITH NO VISIBLE DAMAGE TO THE TIRE. THIS HAPPENED WITHIN ONE YEAR. *JB

FAILURE OF DOOR LOCKS TO LOCK OR UNLOCK (COMPLETELY RANDOM). IN THE CASE OF AN EMERGENCY, CAN TRAP PERSON INSIDE. *NM

LEFT AND RIGHT REAR DOOR LOCKS ARE OFTEN IMMOBILIZED IN THE LOCKED POSITION, PREVENTING THE DOORS FROM BEING OPENED FROM EITHER INSIDE OR OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE. IT IS NOT RELATED TO TEMPERATURE. THE LEFT REAR DOOR FAILED FIRST, AND NOW CAN RARELY BE OPENED. THE DRIVER'S DOOR IS ALSO SHOWING SIGNS OF FAILURE. THIS IS A DESIGN AND A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. IT'S A MANUFACTURING DEFECT BECAUSE THE DOORS ARE FAILING IN LARGE NUMBERS, AND IT'S A DESIGN DEFECT BECAUSE THE DOORS CAN'T BE UNLOCKED MANUALLY WHEN THE POWER LOCKS FAIL. THE DEALER SAID THE DOOR ACTUATORS AND LATCH ASSEMBLIES MUST BE REPLACED. CHEVROLET CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE SAID THE VEHICLE IS OUT OF WARRANTY, AND THE PROBLEM IS NOT A SAFETY DEFECT, SO I AM RESPONSIBLE FOR THE REPAIR, APPROXIMATELY $300 PER DOOR. THIS CLEARLY IS A SAFETY DEFECT SINCE IT IS PROBABLE THAT UP TO SIX PASSENGERS WOULD HAVE TO CLIMB OVER SEATS TO EXIT THE VEHICLE IN AN EMERGENCY.*AK

I STOPPED AT A STORE, DID SOME SHOPPING, CAME BACK OUT AND THE TRUCK WOULD NOT START. I THEN CALLED A TOW TRUCK AND HAD IT TAKEN TO A SHOP. THE NEXT MORNING I GOT A CALL FROM THE SHOP THAT THE TRUCK STARTED JUST FINE. I HAD THEM RUN $280 WORTH OF TEST TO FIND NOTHING THAT STOOD OUT BUT WAS INFORMED THAT IT WAS PROBABLY THE FUEL PUMP. THEY CHANGED THE FUEL FILTER AND EVERYTHING HAS WORKED SINCE; UNTIL TODAY. NOW MY TRUCK WILL NOT START. I HAVE READ HUNDREDS OF SUBMISSIONS ON VARIOUS WEB SITES ABOUT THE FAILURE PROBLEMS OF GM FUEL PUMPS (ON SUBURBANS) AND HAVE TWO GOOD FRIENDS THAT HAVE ALREADY BEEN THROUGH THIS. OBVIOUSLY I AM GOING TO HAVE TO HAVE IT REPLACED, BUT IT SHOULD BE TIME FOR GM TO TAKE RESPONSABILITY FOR A POORLY DESIGNED SYSTEM INSTEAD OF PROFITTING OFF OF THE CONSUMERS WOES.*AK

THE PLASTIC DOOR HANDLES BROKE FROM THE INSIDE COMPARTMENT. THE ONLY WAY TO EXIT THE VEHICLE IS BY ROLLING DOWN THE WINDOWS, AND LIFTING THE HANDLE FROM THE OUTSIDE. DEALER WAS AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM, AND STATED BECAUSE THE PART WAS PLASTIC IT BROKE. *AK IF THE BRAKES GET WET FROM EITHER STANDING WATER OR EXCESSIVE RAIN, THE ABS BRAKES BECOME EXTREMELY SENSITIVE TO PEDAL APPLICATION. THE BRAKES WILL LOCK UP. THE CAUSE HAS NOT BEEN DETERMINED AT THIS TIME. PLEASE PROVIDE DETAILS

THE FUEL PUMP ON MY VEHICLE HAS GONE AGAIN, AND HAS TO BE REPLACED, THIS IS A VERY COSTLY REPAIR AND IS ONE THAT I HAVE MADE BEFORE ON THIS VEHICLE. I HAVE RESEARCHED THIS, AND FOUND THAT THE PROBLEM WITH THE FUEL PUMP THAT I AM HAVING IS A COMMON THING AMONG THE 1999 TAHOES, AND WAS WONDERING IS THERE IS ANY TALKS OF A RECALL ON THIS PART?*AK

DRIVER'S DOOR ELECTRIC DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FAILED AND LEFT DOOR COMPLETELY DISABLED. UNABLE TO MANUALLY RELEASE, KEY FOB NON-FUNCTIONAL, DOOR KEY WOULD NOT UNLOCK THE DOOR. LOCKSMITH WAS FORCED TO DISCONNECT THE ACTUATOR THROUGH WINDOW CHANNEL BY FORCING ATTACHED ROD OUT OF ACTUATOR. THE PASSENGERS SIDE DOOR LOCK ALSO BECAME INOPERABLE (LOCKING PORTION) WHEN THE DRIVERS DOOR FAILED. FACTORY SERVICE SHOP TESTED BOTH ACTUATORS AND HAS DETERMINED THEY ARE DEFECTIVE. I UNDERSTAND THAT PARTS FAIL BUT SOMETHING SHOULD BE DONE TO INSURE THAT IF THE ACTUATOR FAILS IT REVERTS TO THE UNLOCKED POSITION.*AK

THE PROBLEM IS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR OR SOMETHING. AT FIRST THEY WOULD STOP JUST ANYWHERE, AND I WOULD HAVE TO GET OUT AND MOVE THEM BACK AND FORTH TO START THEM AGAIN, THEN WHEN I WOULD TURN THEM OFF, THEY WOULDN'T TURN OFF. THIS HAPPENED AGAIN AND AGAIN, THEM GOING OUT AT ASSORTED TIMES. FINALLY, NOW THEY MAKE A GRINDING SOUND BUT WILL NOT COME ON AT ALL. *JB

WHILE DRIVING CONSUMER NOTICED THAT THE FRONT END SHOOK UNCONTROLLABLY. CONSUMER TOOK VEHICLE TO THE DEALER FOR INSPECTION, AND MECHANIC INFORMED CONSUMER THAT THE PROBLEM COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. *AK

WE HAVE A 1999 CHEVY SUBURBAN. IT NOW HAS 80K MILES ON IT. WE ARE ON WATER PUMP #5. IT HAS ALWAYS HAD COOLANT LEAK PROBLEMS. IT WAS ALWAYS BLAMED ON THE WATER PUMP. NOW I HAVE BEEN INFORMED THAT THE COOLANT IS LEAKING FROM AROUND THE INTAKE. GM KNOWS OF THIS PROBLEM. IT HAS TO DO WITH ELECTROLISIS BETWEEN THE CAST IRON ENGINE BLOCK AND THE ALUMINUM INTAKE. WE HAD AN EXTENDED WARRANTY THROUGH 72K MILES, BUT THIS PROBLEM WAS NEVER FIXED. I WOULD HAVE A HARD TIME CONVINCING MYSELF TO BUY ANOTHER GM VEHICLE...