2010 DODGE CALIBER Complaints

WHILE DRIVING ON I-695 THE ETC LIGHT STARTS TO FLASH AND THE CAR BECOMES CRIPPLED. AFTER RESTARTING, THE CAR IS FINE FOR A FEW DAYS UNTIL THE LIGHT CUTS ON AND OFF OCCASIONALLY. NOW THE ETC LIGHT STAYS LIT EVEN AFTER RESTARTS. TAKING THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP TO SEE IF IT IS COVERED BY THE PLATINUM WARRANTY. *TR

NOTICED LOSS IN ACCELERATION POWER HERE AND THERE OVER A FEW MONTHS TIME AS WELL AS THE ECT LIGHT FLASH ON FOR A QUICK MOMENT A FEW TIMES. ONE DAY I WAS DRIVING AND CAME TO A STOP LIGHT AND WHEN I TRIED TO TAKE OFF FROM THE STOP THE WHOLE CAR STARTED SHAKING AND KNOCKING THEN CUT OFF ALL WHILE HAVING THE ETC LIGHT ILLUMINATED. ONCE THIS HAPPENED I COULD BARELY MAKE IT UP THE STEEP HILL BACK TO MY HOME. I ENDED UP HAVING THE CAR TOWED AND TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE I WAS INFORMED I WOULD HAVE TO REPLACE THE THROTTLE BODY CONTROL UNIT FOR AROUND $700! I HAVE ONLY HAD THIS CAR 2 AND 1/2 YEARS AND THIS IS NOT THE FIRST MAJOR ISSUE. CHRYSLER NEEDS TO RECALL THE ECT THAT THEY ARE USING I ALSO HAVE A 2012 JEEP COMPASS THAT I HAVE HAD 2 MONTHS AND HAVING THE SAME ISSUES. *TR

2 MONTHS AGO I WAS DROPPING MY SON OFF AT SCHOOL AND I WENT TO TURN ON THE MAIN ROAD WHEN MY CAR STARTED BUCKING AND THEN I NOTICED A LIGHT WITH A LIGHTING BOLT FLASH AND I TURNED BACK AROUND AND WENT HOME AND READ MY MANUAL AND IT TOLD ME IF THE LIGHT DOESN'T STAY ON IT'S DRIVABLE LATELY IT'S BEEN BUCKING MORE THEN EVER AND SO I WENT ONLINE AND FOUND OUT THAT THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF CALIBER OWNERS WITH THIS SAME PROBLEM AND MY CAR HAS LESS THEN 60,000 MILES ON IT. IT SHOULDN'T BE HAVING PROBLEMS LIKE THIS ALREADY. I STILL DRIVE THE CAR BUT IT IS NOT A SAFE FEELING WITH KIDS IN THE BACK SEAT. *TR

MY DODGE HAS BEEN STALLING AT RED LIGHTS FOR THE PAST YEAR. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER TWICE AND THEY CANNOT REPLICATE THE ISSUE NOR CAN THEY FIND A CODE ON THE COMPUTER SCAN. THEY DO HOWEVER, RECOMMEND FLUSHES ETC. THE ISSUE HAS NOT GONE AWAY. IF I AM AT A RED LIGHT WITH THE AC ON (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION), IT WILL IDLE VERY LOUD AND ROUGH AND THE TACHOMETER WILL BOUNCE UP AND DOWN. IT WILL ALSO STALL OUT AT TIMES WHEN I MOVE MY FOOT FROM THE BREAK TO THE GAS. IF I TURN THE AC OFF IT WILL KEEP IT FROM IDLING ROUGH AND STALLING. I ALSO HAVE AN ISSUE WHEN I START MY CAR UP, PUT IT IN REVERSE THEN PUT IT BACK IN DRIVE; THAT I ALL ELECTRICAL POWER FOR 10 SECONDS. THE RADIO TURNS OFF, THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT AND OTHER DASH BOARD LIGHTS COME ON AND THEN THE ELECTRICAL POWER WILL COME BACK ON. IT IS ALMOST LIKE THE CAR IS RESETTING ITS SELF; I DO NOT LOSE MY RADIO PRESETS HOWEVER. *JS

WHILE DRIVING HOME FROM WORK THE CARS SPEED SUDDENLY DECREASED AND THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON. PULLED OVER SAFELY AND RESTARTED THE VEHICLE. LIGHT REMAINED ON. TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE THROTTLE BODY MUST BE REPLACED. THE WHOLE THING MUST BE REPLACED SINCE IT'S COMPLETELY SEALED AND YOU CANNOT ACCESS PARTS INSIDE IT. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY LOST SPEED AND THEN IT WOULD NOT ACCELERATE OVER 30MPH. THE VEHICLE ONLY HAS 70000 MILES ON IT. DID SOME CHECKING ONLINE AND THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE WITH CALIBERS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE ADDING AIR TO THE REAR DRIVER'S SIDE TIRE, THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE ALUMINUM AIR VALVE SHOT OUT AND CAUSED THE TIRE TO DEFLATE IMMEDIATELY. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO AN LOCAL MECHANIC, WHO STATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS A COMMON OCCURRENCE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 57,000.

THE CAR HAS BEGUN TO SHIFT HARD AND NOT ENGAGE IMMEDIATELY WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE. THIS OCCURS WORSE IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC, WHEN THE CAR IS COLD, AND WHEN DRIVING UP HILL. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER, A TECHNICIAN DROVE IT AND WAS ABLE TO REPLICATE. HE CHECKED THE TRANSMISSION FLUID, WHICH WAS FINE AND DECIDED IT MUST BE THE MOTOR MOUNTS, BUT UPON FURTHER INSPECTION COULD NOT FIND A PROBLEM WITH THEM. HE DROVE THE CAR AGAIN AND CHECKED THE TRANSMISSION FLUID IMMEDIATELY AFTER STOPPING. THE TRANSMISSION FLUID WAS FOAMING AND HE SUGGESTED A TRANSMISSION SERVICE ALTHOUGH THE CAR ISN'T DUE UNTIL 100,000 MILES AND MY VEHICLE IS AT 60,000. I HAD THE TRANSMISSION SERVICE DONE AND THE CAR APPEARED TO BE WORKING PROPERLY FOR AWHILE, BUT IS NOW EXHIBITING THE SAME SHIFTING/ACCELERATION ISSUES AS IT WAS BEFORE THE FLUID WAS CHANGED. *TR

WHILE PULLING INTO TRAFFIC FROM A PARKING LOT, THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE, DESPITE MY BEST ATTEMPTS, FINALLY AFTER SEVERAL SECONDS OF COASTING AND THE PEDAL PUSHED ALL THE WAY DOWN, THE VEHICLE JUMPED INTO ACCELERATION. DURING THIS INCIDENT, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I PROMPTLY TOOK IT TO THE DEALER, WHO RAN THE CODE AND IT SAID P0455 LARGE EVAC LEAK. THE DEALER RAN THE ESIM TEST AND VAC TEST WITH NO RESULTS. THEY TOLD ME THAT I PROBABLY HAD A LOOSE GAS CAP. I HAD NOT BEEN AT THE GAS STATION IN DAYS. ALSO, WHEN THE GAS CAP IS LOOSE, AN ERROR ABBREVIATION FOR GAS CAP SHOWS UP IN THE MILEAGE READOUT AND DOES NOT COME BACK ON AFTER THE CAP IS TIGHTENED. I HAVE NEVER HAD THE INCIDENT DESCRIBED ABOVE OCCUR BECAUSE OF A LOOSE GAS CAP. NO FURTHER WORK OR DIAGNOSIS WAS DONE ON THE VEHICLE. *TR

CAR CONTINUES TO STALL AT STOPLIGHTS OR IN STOP-AND-GO TRAFFIC. COMPLAINED TO DODGE AND DEALER AGREED TO KEEP CAR FOR A WEEK TO TEST DRIVE AND REPLICATE ISSUE. THE TECHNICIAN DROVE FOR SEVERAL DAYS BUT THE CAR DID NOT STALL OUT. DEALER TESTED WIRING, CONNECTIONS, AND TERMINALS. NOTHING WAS FOUND. I WAS TOLD THAT THE ISSUE WOULD NEED TO BE VERIFIED TO PROPERLY DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR. *TR

WHILE DRIVING VEHICLE IN THE RAIN ON THE HIGHWAY AT ABOUT 45 MILES PER HOUR IN RUSH-HOUR TRAFFIC, THE CAR BEGAN TO JERK THIS LASTED FOR SEVERAL SECONDS BEFORE THE CAR COMPLETELY STALLED. IT RESTARTED IMMEDIATELY. TOOK TO DEALER WHO TEST DROVE AND FOUND NO ISSUES OR CODES. *TR