2010 DODGE CALIBER Complaints

WHILE DRIVING VEHICLE DURING WINTER, HEAT SHUT OFF. AFTER TURNING HEAT BACK ON (MOVING KNOB TO OFF POSITION AND THEN BACK ON) THERE WAS AN ELECTRICAL SMOKE SMELL IN THE CABIN. ONCE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, A LARGE AMOUNT OF SMOKE APPEARED TO BE COMING FROM THE AIR CONDITIONER BLOWER CONTROL KNOB AND THE AREA ABOVE THE KNOB WAS HOT TO THE TOUCH ALMOST TO THE POINT WHERE I WAS CONCERNED THAT I MAY NEED TO CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT TO HAVE THEM CHECK FOR FIRE. WHEN CAR WAS TURNED ON AGAIN, THE BLOWER MOTOR WOULD NOT START.

DODGE PUT THE RELAY BOX RIGHT BEHIND THE DRIVER SIDE WHEEL WELL AND THIS CAUSES THE SNOW, WATER, ICE AND ELEMENTS TO GET INTO THE RELAY BOX AND CORRODE THE RELAYS AND THE ACTUAL RELAY BOX, THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH A LOT OF THE CALIBERS GOING BACK TO 2007 THAT I KNOW OF. THIS WILL CAUSE YOUR CAR NOT TO START OUT OF THE BLUE, AND THE WIRES GET CORRODED GOING FROM THE FUSE BOX TO THE RELAY BOX AS WELL. NOT SURE WHY THEY WOULD PUT THIS TYPE OF ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT IN FRONT OF THE WHEEL WELL WHERE THE ELEMENTS CAN GET INSIDE AND DO DAMAGE TO ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT THAT CAN BE VERY PRICY. THIS HAPPENED TO MY CAR WITH NO WARNING, NO ACTING UP OR ISSUES, JUST DIED AND WOULD NOT START, MY BATTERY IS BRAND NEW, IT'S NOT THE STARTER IT'S THE CORRODED RELAYS AND RELAY BOX.

WHILE PURCHASING TIRES MECHANIC NOTICED, BOTH FRONT AND REAR SUBFRAMES ARE CORRODING TO THE POINT OF FAILURE, VEHICLE UNSAFE TO DRIVE.

TAKATA RECALL. MY CAR KEEPS ON BLOWING THE REAR TIRE ABOUT EVERY 6-8 MONTHS.MY STEERING WHEEL ALSO SHAKES/VIBRATES WHEN DRIVING OVER 55 MPH. THE TIRES ARE WEARING UNEVEN. I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT THERE IS A REAR CROSS MEMBER RECALL FOR MY CAR WHICH WOULD EXPLAIN THIS. I WILL BE TAKING MY CAR IN TO BE ALIGNED HOWEVER I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW HOW TO GET THE RECALL HONORED BEFORE DOING SO

ELECTRICAL THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT HAS POPPED UP SEVERAL TIMES AND I'VE NOTICED IT'S WHEN IT HAS RAINED. WHEN THIS HAPPENS, THE CAR SLOWS DOWN AND CAUSES FORCEFULLY PULL OVER AND SHUT THE CAR OFF. IT DOESN'T START AFTER THE FIRST FEW TRIES AND EVENTUALLY DOES. THE CAR BEGAN TO OVERHEAT AFTER DRIVING IT OVER 60MPH FOR ABOUT 20MINS. THE CAR HAS GIVEN ME THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE WARNING SYMBOL WHEN THIS HAPPENS, MAKING AN UGLY ALMOST SCREECHING SOUND,SLOWS DOWN THE CAR UNTIL I CAN'T PUSH THE GAS ANY LONGER CAUSING ME TO PULL OVER TO TURN OFF THE CAR UNTIL IT RESTARTS AGAIN. THE CAR IS BEGINNING TO OVER HEAT AFTER DRIVING IT FOR A LONG PERIOD OF TIME OVER 20 MINS THIS WILL BEGAN TO HAPPEN. I'VE PUT COOLANT RECENTLY AND NOT SURE IF THERE'S A HOLE IN THE RESERVOIR BUT I'VE DONE WHAT I COULD TO GET THIS FIXED. THE CAR JOLTS AFTER 3RD GEAR ESPECIALLY GOING UP HILL.

MY HEADLIGHT WENT OUT ON MY CAR, I GOT A REPLACEMENT BULB, PUT IT IN AND NOTHING. I GOT ANOTHER BULB THINKING MAYBE IT'S A MALFUNCTIONING BULB. STILL DIDN'T WORK, TESTED THE LIGHT SOCKET AND NO POWER TO IT, LOOKED UP ON GOOGLE FOR HEADLIGHT MALFUNCTIONING ON 2010 DODGE CALIBERS AND THERE ARE MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS AND VIDEOS REGARDING THIS ISSUE GOING BACK TO 2007 DODGE CALIBERS. THIS IS AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM AND DODGE IS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE BUT STATES ITS NOT A "SAFETY ISSUE" HOWEVER YOU CAN GET A TICKET FOR A HEADLIGHT BEING OUT AND YOUR CAR WILL NOT PASS INSPECTION WITHOUT A HEADLIGHT. SO HOW CAN THIS NOT BE A SAFETY ISSUE? THIS NEEDS TO BE A RECALL ON THIS VEHICLE, JUST FOR THE DIAGNOSTIC OF THIS ISSUE WILL COST ME $114/HOUR TO HAVE THE SHOP DIAGNOSE THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM, NOT FIX IT, JUST TELL ME WHAT IT IS AND THEN LABOR AND PARTS TO FIX IT. CHECK EDMONDS.COM THERE ARE DOZENS OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT HEADLIGHT FAILURES. THIS IS A TIPM PROBLEM THAT APPEARS TO TRIGGER CALIBER HEADLIGHT FAILURE AND TO REPLACE IT IS EXPENSIVE AND DODGE IS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE AND DOES NOTHING

TRANSMISSION FAILURE UNDER 100,00 MILES. TOOK IT TO 3 DIFFERENT TRANSMISSION SHOPS AND WAS TOLD THAT THIS TYPE OF TRANSMISSION (CVT) , WHICH DODGE ONLY USES FOR THE CALIBER IS BASICALLY JUNK. PRECISION SAID THAT HE'S SEEN SO MANY OF THESE CARS FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. THEY DON'T REBUILD THEM BECAUSE OF HOW THEY ARE MADE. I COULD TAKE A CHANCE ON BUYING A REMANUFACTURED ONE AT A COST OF 1500.00 PLUS 650.00 LABOR AND A YEAR OR SO LATER HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. OR A BRAND NEW ONE AT A COST OF 3000-4000 DOLLARS. THIS IS RIDICULOUS. I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY THERE ISN'T A RECALL. AFTER RESEARCHING ONLINE THIS IS COMMON PROBLEM WITH THESE CARS. SOME STATING FAILURE AT ONLY 36,000 MILES. AND THEY PUT THESE TRANSMISSIONS IN BOTH , 2.0 AND 2.4 MOTORS . THERE NEEDS TO BE A RECALL ON THESE CVT TRANSMISSIONS AS THEY ARE JUNK AND THEY KNOW IT. IT GAVE ME NO WARNING. WENT TO WORK ONE DAY, TRIED TO GO TO QWIK TRIP ON LUNCH. CAR STARTED MAKING THIS LOUD NOISE WHEN I ACCELERATED, RPM'S SHOT WAY UP AND THEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. SO DROVE IT BACK TO MY JOB AND MORE I ACCELERATED THE MORE NOISE IT MADE. HAD TO GET IT TOWED FROM MY JOB TO MY AUNTS HOUSE BECAUSE IT WAS CLOSER THAN MY HOUSE WHICH IS :35 MINUTES DRIVE.

MY SUBFRAME RUSTED OUT AFFECTING MY STEERING. I HAD TO PULL OFF THE INTERSTATE SINCE I ALMOST LOST ALL CONTROL. SINCE MY CAR CAME FROM A SALT STATE THE SUBFRAME IS BEING REPLACED DUE TO A WARRANTY EXTENSION FROM DODGE, HOWEVER THE CONTROL ARMS NEED TO BE REPLACED AS WELL. THEY HAVE PREMATURELY WORN OUT DUE TO THR INCORRECT SUPPORT OF THE SUBFRAME. DODGE REFUSES TO FIX THIS AS WELL.

DRIVING UNDER NORMAL CONDITIONS ON A CITY STREET WHILE THE CAR WAS IN MOTION THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL AND THE CAR BEGAN TO SHUDDER AND DRAG. I COULD NOT ACCELERATE MORE THAN 25 MPH AND THE RPMS WERE VERY HIGH AT THAT LOW SPEED. I HAD TO IMMEDIATELY TURN OFF AND PARK THE CAR. AFTER TURNING OFF THE IGNITION AND WAITING A BIT I TRIED TO RESTART IT. THE ETC LIGHT REMAINED ON AND SAFE OPERATION OF THE VEHICLE WAS NOT POSSIBLE. I HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED TO A MECHANIC AND SERVICED. THERE HAVE BEEN TWO INCIDENCES IN 6 MONTHS. 3/28/2018, 8/14/2018. THE INDICATOR LIGHT IS FOR ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL AND THE PART REPLACED IS THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.

THE PASSENGER SIDE HEADLIGHT WILL NOT WORK. I HAVE TRIED A NEW ONE AND NOTHING. I HAVE POWER TO THE SOCKET BUT THE LIGHT WILL NOT WORK. I HAVE READ THAT THE PROBLEM IS THE FUSE BOX. IT'S BEEN A PROBLEM SINCE THEY MADE THE CAR IN 2007. $1000.00 OR BETTER TO FIX IT.