2004 JEEP WRANGLER Complaints

My Jeep's frame is rusted. There are holes and cracks in the frame from the rust. The Jeep will not pass my states safety inspection because of the rust. Parts of the suspension that are attached to the frame are about to fall off.

The frame has been compromised due to rust. The frame rusted from the inside out because the frame was not properly engineered from the factory. There are no weep holes at the lowest point on the frame. This causes water to sit in the frame and rust from the inside out. The rust appears without warning. This is an extremely dangerous because the frame can break without warning and cause loss of control. My vehicle is available to be inspected upon request.

The frame on the Jeep TJ is prone to rot. Mine is so rusted that body shops refuse to repair it, claiming their insurance won't cover them. My Jeep has 123,233 miles and is otherwise in very good condition, but the frame has rust severe enough to make driving the vehicle unsafe. The Jeep Forum on the Internet is full of similar stories, so Chrysler has known about this problem for many years. You should make them recall the Jeeps and repair or replace the frame. A few years ago Toyota did a similar recall on their small pickup trucks.

DRIVING WHILE DARK, HAD SMOKE SMELL FROM INSIDE CAB. DRIVING IN DAYLIGHT LATER, AND SAW SMOKE COMING FROM BEHIND STEERING COLOMN. SMOKE GOT MUCH WORSE, ENDANGERED DRIVING, AND COLUMN STARTED TO GET HOT. PULLED OVER, AND NOTICED THE FOG LIGHTS WERE STILL ON DESPITE THE SWITCH, AND KEY BEING OFF. PULLED THE FUSE, AND RELAY, THEN PROBLEM STOPPED. I REMOVED THE TURN SIGNAL SWITCH ASSEMBLY, WHICH ALSO HOUSES THE HEAD LIGHTS AND FOG LIGHT SWITCHES, AND FOUND THE CONNECTOR OVERHEATED, AND SHORTED INTERNALLY. WHILE WAITING FOR A REPLACEMENT SWITCH, THE TURN SIGNALS AND FLASHERS QUIT WORKING. I TRIED A NEW FLASHER RELAY, BUT CAN ONLY ASSUME THE CONNECTOR IS THE MAIN FAULT, AS IT WAS PARTIALLY MELTED AND NOW BRITTLE FROM THE FIRE. AFTER TROUBLE SHOOTING AND MULTIPLE TIMES INSTALLING AND REMOVING THE CONNECTOR, IT HAS BEGUN TO CRACK AND FALL APART, FURTHER DISABLING OTHER SWITCHES. I'M CURRENTLY REPLACING THE CONNECTOR ONCE I AM ABLE TO LOCATE ONE. MY MAIN CONCERN IS THIS COULD HAVE CAUSED A MAJOR DISTRACTION AND POSSIBLE CRASH WHILE DRIVING, AND EVEN MORE SO, THAT A FIRE COULD OCCUR WHILE THE VEHICLE IS PARKED, LIKE IN MY GARAGE WHILE I SLEEP! EVERY THING ON THE JEEP IS STOCK, AND THE FOG LIGHTS ARE A OEM OPTION INSTALLED BY THE DEALER WHEN I BOUGHT IT NEW, FROM THE FACTORY. I'VE DONE NO MAINTENANCE EXCEPT TO REPLACE THE TURN SIGNAL SWITCH WHEN THE FOG LIGHT SWITCH FAILED 40K MILES AGO. THE CONNECTOR WAS FINE THEN, AND IT WAS ONLY A SWITCH FAILURE AT THAT TIME. THE JEEP HAS 135K MILES ON IT CURRENTLY. THE CURRENT TURN SIGNAL SWITCH WAS NOT AT FAULT SINCE I NOW KNOW THE CONNECTOR WAS WHAT WAS BURNING. I'VE READ OF SEVERAL INCIDENCES ON JEEP FORUMS WHERE SOMETHING SIMILAR HAS HAPPENED, WITH EITHER THE CONNECTOR, OR THE TURN SIGNAL SWITCH. I FEEL THIS IS A MULTIPLE SAFETY HAZARD, NOT ONLY WHILE DRIVING, BUT ALSO WHEN PARKED.

HIT A REGULAR BUMP IN THE ROAD, AT 35 MILES PER HOUR ON A STRAIT STRETCH OF ROAD AND THE ATTACHMENT POINT FOR THE FRONT SUSPENSION PULLED AWAY FROM THE FRAME AND I LOST CONTROL OF THE JEEP, UPON FURTHER INSPECTION I DISCOVERED THAT THE ENTIRE CENTER SECTION OF THE FRAME IS RUSTED FROM THE INSIDE OUT ON BOTH SIDES, THE FRAME SHOULD BE THE LAST THING TO FAIL ON ANY VEHICLE, THIS JEEP HAS ONLY 65,000 MILES ON IT AND HAS NEVER BEEN OFF ROADED OR ABUSED. FOR A VEHICLE THAT IS KNOWN TO LAST 200K MILES PLUS TO HAVE FRAME FAILURE AT 65K MILES IS NOT ONLY NEGLIGENT ON CHRYSLERS BEHALF BUT IT ALSO POSES A REAL SAFETY HAZARD TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC, IMAGINE HOW MANY PEOPLE ARE DRIVING THESE JEEPS DOWN THE ROAD AT 70-80 MILES PER HOUR WITH A FRAME THAT COULD FAIL AT ANYTIME. THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THESE JEEPS AND CHRYSLER NEEDS TO BE FORCED TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT BEFORE MORE LIVES ARE LOST, IN 10 YEARS MANY OF THESE VEHICLES WILL STILL BE ON THE ROAD AND THE PROBLEM WILL ONLY GET WORSE. PLEASE HELP

ON MARCH 8, 2020 WHILE DRIVING AT 75 MPH ON INTERSTATE 75, THE RIGHT REAR (RR) TIRE ON MY 2004 JEEP WRANGLER BLEW OUT. THE TIRES WERE PURCHASED AT SAM'S CLUB IN MAY 2018. THE VEHICLE HAD A MATCHING SET OF TIRES ALL PURCHASED AT THE SAME TIME (MAY 18) - BF GOODRICH ALL TERRAIN TA KO2. SIZE 31 X 10.5 R15. THE MILEAGE ON THE TIRE AT TIME OF BLOW OUT WAS ONLY 16,386 MILES. IT IS VERY CLEAR FROM PHOTOGRAPHS THAT REAR TIRE TREAD SEPARATED FROM THE SIDEWALL. WEATHER CONDITIONS AT TIME OF TIRE FAILURE WERE EXCELLENT - CLEAR, SUNNY, 57 DEG F. ROADS WERE CLEAR AND DRY. TIRE PRESSURE FOR REMAINING 3 TIRES WAS CHECKED IMMEDIATELY AFTER BLOW OUT OF RR, AND ALL 3 TIRES WERE FOUND TO BE SAME PRESSURE (35 PSI). THE TIRE WAS MARKED DOT BF60_AT11_1118. I AM AN AUTOMOTIVE ENGINEER WITH +30 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE IN AUTOMOTIVE DRIVELINE. THE WAY THE TREAD SEPARATED CLEANLY FOR FULL 360 DEG FROM SIDEWALL ON FRONT OF TIRE CLEARLY LEAVES ME BELIEVING THERE IS A MANUFACTURING OR DESIGN DEFECT IN THESE TIRES. I AM CONCERNED ABOUT THE SAFETY OF THIS BF GOODRICH ALL TERRAIN TA KO2 TIRE ON THE ROAD.

I HAVE A RIGHT HAND DRIVE 2004 JEEP WRANGLER. THE RIGHT SEAT BELT LATCH IS ALWAYS STICKING CAUSING MY SEAT BELT TO COME LOOSE. THE STEERING WHEEL STARTS SHAKING VIOLENTLY WHEN REACHING SPEEDS ABOVE 50 MPH,IF YOU HIT A BUMP, OR IF IT'S WINDY OR AN 18 WHEELER PASSES YOU ON HIGHWAY, THE JEEP WILL ROCK SIDE TO SIDE LIKE IT'S GOING TO TURN OVER. IT'S VERY HARD TO CONTROL THE VEHICLE. I HAVE CHILDREN TO HAUL AROUND.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2004 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE EXITING HER DRIVEWAY CARPORT GOING 10 MPH, WITHOUT WARNING THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED AND THE CONTACT COULD NOT CONTROL THE STEERING WHEEL WHICH SEIZED. THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO DEPRESS THE BRAKES WHICH FAILED CAUSING, THE CONTACT TO CRASH INTO THE CARPORTS POLE ALLOWING THE VEHICLE TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. NO EMERGENCY BRAKE WAS APPLIED. NO INJURIES, NO POLICE REPORT FILED, NO MEDICAL ATTENTION, NO DAMAGE'S TO THE VEHICLE, THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED, AND NO DIAGNOSTIC TEST WAS PERFORMED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 130,000.

WHEN THE WRANGLER REACHES APPROXIMATELY 55 MPH, IT BEGINS TO VIOLENTLY (AND TERRIFYINGLY) SHAKE UNCONTROLLABLY. IT MAKES IT DIFFICULT TO MAINTAIN ANY CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE, AND WE HAVE HAD SEVERAL NEAR MISSES, BARELY AVOIDING ACCIDENTS. WE HAVE REPORTED THIS FOR *YEARS* TO OUR AUTO REPAIR AND TIRE COMPANIES, HAD SEVERAL THINGS DONE IN A DESPERATE ATTEMPT TO REMEDY IT, INCLUDING 2 SETS OF TIRES, WITH NO SUCCESS. WITH REPORTS OF THE "DEATH WOBBLE" NOW BECOMING WIDELY KNOWN, WE INSTANTLY KNEW THAT WE WERE NOT ALONE, AND THAT THIS IS A WIDESPREAD ISSUE THAT JEEP NEEDS TO ADDRESS. THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE.

VEHICLE SHIFTS HARD FROM GEAR TO GEAR FOR FIRST 5 MINUTES OR SO OF DRIVING. RANDOMLY THROWS 02 OR CPS CODES. HAD ALL PARTS REPLACED MORE THAN ONCE. PCM REPLACED TWICE. TWO MECHANICS CONFIRMED IT WAS A FAULTY PCM. SHIFTING ETC, IS BETTER WHEN NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE DISCONNECTED OVERNIGHT. AFTER A FEW CYCLES, THE ISSUES RETURN. PCMS ARE DEFECTIVE FROM THE FACTORY. MY MECHANIC CURRENTLY HAS TWO 2006 JEEPS WITH THE SAM PROBLEM. LONG INVOLVED POST WITH MULTIPLE EXAMPLES DOCUMENTING ISSUES HERE:HTTP://WWW.WRANGLERFORUM.COM/F210/1ST-TO-2ND-HARD-SHIFTS-WHEN-COLD-2006-LJ-1755777.HTML. VEHICLE IS UNPREDICTABLE UPON INITIAL ACCELERATION AS IT MAY BE IN 2ND GEAR WHILE STOPPED. ALMOST HAD MULTIPLE ACCIDENTS.