2013 MAZDA CX-5 Complaints

VEHICLE DOES NOT SHUT OFF WHEN PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON DUE TO KNOWN GATE AT SHIFTER ISSUE IN SB 05-007/15. MY VEHICLE WARRANTY EXPIRED DUE TO MILAGE BEFORE THE SB WAS EVEN RELEASED.

THE PASSENGER SEAT AIR BAG SENSOR FAILED AND IT COST ME 1,000.00 TO REPAIR ,REPLACE SENSOR CAR IS LESS THAN 5YEARS OLD. ALSO THE PAINT CLEAR COAT HAS DETERIORATED BADLY DEALER SAYS NOTHING THEY CAN DO ABOUT THE PAINT

MY CAR HAD AN ENGINE LIGHT AFTER DRIVING IT FOR 43K MILE. TOOK IT TO MY LOCAL MAZDA DEALER AND FOUND OUT IT HAS CODE P011A WHICH REQUIRED THE COOLANT SENSORS REPLACEMENT. HAD THE WORK DONE WHICH COST ME ABOUT $600 BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME BACK WITH THE SAME ERROR CODE. AFTER SPEAKING WITH THEIR TOP LEVEL TECHNICIAN AND MANAGEMENT TEAM IT TURN OUT THE HEATER CORE WAS THE MAIN ISSUE IT WAS A MISSED DIAGNOSTIC. SO NOW THE HEATER CORE IS REQUIRED WHICH WILL COST ME ANOTHER $1800 TO GET IT FIX. IF THE HEATER CORE IS NOT REPLACED THE ENGINE CAN OVER HEAT AND ALSO IF THE HEATER IS TURNED UP, IT CAN SLOWLY COOK OR SUFFOCATE THE DRIVER AND PASSENGERS. WITH THE SAFETY CONCERNS IN MIND I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND OUT THERE ARE OTHERS REPORTING SIMILAR ISSUE WITH SEEM TO INDICATE THE HEATER CORE MIGHT BE A DESIGN FLAW OR DEFECT FROM THE START WHICH REQUIRE A REPLACEMENT EVERY 50K MILE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA CX-5. WHILE AT AN INTERSECTION, THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED WITHOUT WARNING AND CRASHED INTO THE PRECEDING VEHICLE. THE FENDER ON THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE WAS DAMAGED. THERE WERE NO INJURIES AND A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 44,000.

OVER THE LIFETIME OF MY VEHICLE, I HAVE REPLACED MY REAR PADS AND ROTORS THREE TIMES (HAVE ALSO REPLACED FRONT PADS AND ROTORS TWO TIMES DURING THE LIFETIME OF THE CAR). THE MOST TWO RECENT OCCURRENCES WERE IN NOVEMBER 2017 AND APRIL 2019, WHERE BOTH THE REAR BRAKES PADS AND ROTORS WERE COMPLETELY REPLACED BOTH TIMES. THE MILEAGE IN BETWEEN BOTH REPAIRS WAS ONLY 22,326. I HAVE CALLED WITH MY CONCERNS TO THE DEALERSHIP, AND THEY EXPLAIN THAT THERE ARE SO MANY FACTORS THAT IT IS DIFFICULT TO SAY WHAT THE ISSUE COULD BE. I TAKE CARE OF MY VEHICLE, IT IS ALWAYS REPAIRED AND SERVICED ON TIME, HAS FREQUENT CAR WASHES, INCLUDING THE WHEEL AND UNDERCARRIAGE AREA. I HAVE AN APPROXIMATE HALF HOUR COMMUTE WITH ONLY HIGHWAY MILES, BECAUSE WE HAVE AN ADDITIONAL CAR FOR OUR LOCAL ERRANDS. IT SEEMS AS THOUGH THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH A LOT OF 2013 MAZDA CX-5 OWNERS, NOT JUTS MYSELF, AS I'VE DISCOVERED FROM MANY VEHICLE COMPLAINT BOARDS ONLINE WHO SPEAK OF THE SAME EXACT ISSUE OF HAVING TO CONSTANTLY REPLACE PREMATURELY WORN BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS. I PERSONALLY FEEL THAT THERE IS DEFINITELY SOMETHING MORE TO THIS RECURRING ISSUE THAN WHAT I AM ACTUALLY BEING TOLD, AND FEEL AS THOUGH IT SHOULD BE INVESTIGATED ONCE AND FOR ALL. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND ASSISTANCE.

CAR ISSUE ON MAY 6TH 2018, I FIRST EXPERIENCED AN ISSUE WITH MY VEHICLE NOT FULLY TURNING OFF THE CAR WHILE IN PARK. I HAVE A PUSH BUTTON START ON MY CAR AND AFTER I PUT IT IN PARK, I PRESSED THE PUSH BUTTON TO SHUT IT OFF AND IT WOULD NOT TURN OFF. I WANT TO EXIT THE VEHICLE AND IT WAS BEEPING AT ME AS IF I DID NOT TURN OFF MY CAR. AND THE LIGHT ON THE PUSH BUTTON WAS ORANGE. THE CAR WAS IN A STATE AS IF I WAS USING THE BATTERY BUT DID NOT HAVE MY ENGINE ON OR AC. I PUT MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE, PRESSED THE BUTTON TO TRY TO SHUT IT OFF, AND IT TURNED MY CAR BACK ON THEN I PRESSED THE FOOT ON THE BRAKE TO SHUT IT OFF AND IT WENT BACK TO USING THE BATTERY ONLY. I TRIED MANY DIFFERENT WAYS TO SHUT OFF MY VEHICLE AND I STILL COULD NOT. I ATTEMPTED THIS AT LEAST 5 TIMES BEFORE MY VEHICLE FINALLY SHUT OFF. I PUT MY CAR IN PARK, GO TO SHUT OFF MY CAR AND IT WILL NOT FULLY SHUT OFF. I ATTEMPTED TO SHUT IT OFF SEVEN TIMES BEFORE I FINALLY PUT MY CAR IN REVERSE PUT IT IN PARK AND THEN MY CAR SHUT OFF. I CALLED MY MAZDA DEALERSHIP, AND ASK THEM WHAT I WOULD DO IN THE FUTURE TO FIX THIS ISSUE AND THEY SAID THEY HAVE NEVER HEARD OF THIS ISSUE BEFORE. I LOOKED UP ON THE INTERNET, AND THERE'S HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE THAT HAVE HAD THIS ISSUE AND ALL OF THEM SAY THAT MAZDA SAYS THEY'VE NEVER HEARD OF THE ISSUE. THEY URGED ME TO COME IN, HAVE MY CAR DIAGNOSED, AND THEN THEY COULD TRY TO SEE WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT. BECAUSE MY CAR IS NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY, I WOULD BE PAYING FOR SOMETHING THAT MIGHT BE A RECALL ISSUE. HOW ARE THERE HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE, BLOGS EVERYWHERE WITH THE SAME ISSUES AS MYSELF AND NO ONE HAS EVER HEARD OF IT? THIS IS NOW HAPPENING TO ME ON A REGULAR BASIS. I LOVE THIS VEHICLE BUT I'M SECONDS AWAY FROM GETTING RID OF IT. I'VE HAD ENOUGH. THIS IS DEFINITELY A DEFECT IN THE MANUFACTURING OF THE VEHICLES.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY, MY GLASS SUNROOF SHATTERED. THERE WAS NOT ANY SORT OF OBJECT THAT FELL THROUGH IT, AND IT SEEMS TO HAVE JUST BEEN FAULTY.

I'VE BEEN HAVING A PROBLEM WITH MY REAR DRIVER SIDE BRAKES WEARING OUT WAY SOONER THAN ALL OF MY OTHER BRAKES. I FINALLY DECIDED TO LOOK IT UP AND I SEE THAT EVERYBODY HAS THE SAME ISSUE. THEY POSTED A SERVICE BULLETIN A WHILE BACK THAT I WAS NEVER NOTIFIED OF SO NOW IT IS NO LONGER COVERED BUT SOMETHING AS FAR AS MANUFACTURER DEFECTS ON THE BRAKES SHOULD BE A RECALL. BRAKES ARE A VERY IMPORTANT PART OF DRIVER SAFETY AND I'M REALLY SURPRISED THIS NOT BEEN PUT ON THE RECALL LIST... THE ROTORS START WEARING OUT ALL OF A SUDDEN AND GRINDING OFF ALL OF THE METAL ONTO THE ROAD.... IT HAPPENS SUDDENLY WITH NO WARNING... WHEN IT FIRST STARTED IT WAS SUDDEN AND IS CONTINUING EVEN WHEN I AM NOT BREAKING STILL MAKING NOISES.. THIS STARTED HAPPENING WHEN MY CAR WAS UNDER 20000 MILES AND I THOUGHT NOTHING OF IT AND I HAVE JUST BEEN GOING AND GETTING THAT ONE ROTOR REPLACED ALONG WITH THE BRAKE PAD BUT THIS IS A REOCCURRING ISSUE... AND MAZDA IS TAKING NO RESPONSIBILITY IN FIXING IT

I BOUGHT THE CAR CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED WITH 20K MILES. AFTER A FEW MONTHS I WAS AT AN INTERSECTION, ONCE THE CROSS TRAFFIC CLEARED I TOOK MY FOOT OFF THE BRAKE AND PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR. THE CAR JUST GLIDED, IT HAD NO POWER FOR 5 SECONDS. I REPEATEDLY PRESSED THE THE GAS PEDAL BUT NOTHING HAPPENED UNTIL AFTER 5 SECONDS WHEN THE REVOLUTIONS INSTANTLY INCREASED TO AROUND 5000 RPM. THIS WAS THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED AT AROUND 27,000 MILES. I FIGURED IT WAS A SMALL GLITCH. THROUGH MY 3 YEARS OF OWNERSHIP (PUTTING ON 57,000 MILES) THIS HAS BEEN OCCURRING MORE AND MORE FREQUENTLY. I AM VERY HESITANT WHEN CROSSING INTERSECTIONS AND ATTEMPTING LANE CHANGES. THIS NOW OCCURS AT LEAST TWICE A MONTH WHILE IN TRAFFIC. THE OTHER ISSUE OCCURS WHEN I SHIFT FROM PARK/REVERSE TO DRIVE, WHILE ON LEVEL GROUND, THE CAR SUDDENLY JERKS FORWARD AND REVOLUTIONS INCREASE SUDDENLY, WITH MY FOOD EITHER ON THE BRAKE OR AS SOON AS I REMOVE IT BUT BEFORE I PRESS THE GAS PEDAL. ANOTHER ISSUE IS WHILE I'M ACCELERATING, AT 20-25 MPH AS THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION IS SHIFTING FROM EITHER 2 TO 3RD OR 3RD TO 4TH (I HAVEN'T BEEN ABLE TO DETERMINE YET). WHEN TRANSMISSION MISSES THE GEAR CHANGE IT CAUSES THE REVOLUTIONS TO SUDDENLY INCREASE FOR A FRACTION OF A SECOND. WHEN THE GEAR IS ENGAGED IT IS ACCOMPANIED BY A CLUNKY SLAMMING SOUND. THIS HAPPENS PRETTY QUICKLY AND HAS NOT YET MADE THE CAR LOSE SPEED OR HANDLING. AFTER 3 YEARS OF OWNERSHIP WITH RECORDED ROUTINE SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE COMPLETED AND STANDARD COMMUTER USE OF 60% HIGHWAY AND 40% CITY STYLE DRIVING I DON'T FEEL THE TRANSMISSION AND/OR ENGINE ARE SAFE OR RELIABLE. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER SINCE IT IS STILL UNDER LIMITED POWER-TRAIN WARRANTY BUT THEY JUST TELL ME THAT IS NORMAL FOR ECONOMY STYLE CARS. I CAN NOT LET MY PARENTS BORROW THE CAR BECAUSE I FEEL THESE ISSUES MIGHT SURPRISE THEM WHILE IN TRAFFIC AND LEAD TO A COLLISION.

WHEN STOPPED AND WITH THE ENGINE AND ALL LIGHTS TURNED OFF, THE CAR WILL DRAIN THE BATTERY AND NOT BE ABLE TO BE STARTED. THIS HAS RESULTED IN BEING STRANDED IN MANY PLACES. IN FACT, I NOW CARRY A RECHARGABLE BATTERY PACK TO KEEP FROM BEING STRANDED ONCE A MONTH.