2008 MAZDA TRIBUTE Complaints

FROM A STOP SWITCHING TO GAS PEDAL OR ACCELERATOR THE PEDAL STICKS AND HARD TO PRESS AND DOES IT BACK TO BACK FOR A FEW MINUTES. ALSO IT CAN DO IT AT RANDOM AFTER DRIVING FOR AWHILE AND STOP AT A LIGHT IT WILL STICK WHEN TRYING TO GO. ONCE IT STOPS STICKING I HAVE TO QUICKLY HIT THE BRAKES TO NOT CAUSE OVER ACCELERATION. *JS

WAS DRIVING ON THE WAY HOME AT 45MPH AND THE PEDAL STUCK TO THE FLOOR. I PULL ON SIDE OF THE ROAD AND HIT THE BRAKE PUT IN PARK. AFTER FEW MINUTE I TRIED TO HIT THE PEDAL AND IT COME BACK .THIS IS JUST NOT ACCEPTABLE IF I HAVE MY KIDS WITH ME AND I WILL BE STUCK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BUSY ROAD. THIS SHOULD BE TAKEN CARE OF BY MAZDA AS THIS CALL SO MUCH DANGER TO THE PUBLIC. THANKS. *TR

WHEN TURNING STEERING WHEEL A LOUD CLUNK NOISE IS APPARENT AND STEERING FEELS DISCONNECTED FROM VEHICLE WHILE DRIVING. *TR

LOCK ISSUE - HATCHBACK AND BACK WINDOW ONLY THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT I HAVE ALWAYS HAD, AND IT IS A PAIN IN THE NECK. THE HATCHBACK DOOR OR WINDOW WILL NOT OPEN USING EITHER THE REMOTE OR THE DOOR UNLOCK BUTTON IN THE CAR. AFTER HAVING GROCERIES IN THE BACK, PIZZA, MATERIAL BEING MOVED, ETC. ONE HAS TO DO THE FOLLOWING TO ACCESS THAT AREA OF THE VEHICLE: 1.) CLIMB OVER THE SEAT - MANY TIMES NOT POSSIBLE TO REALLY GET AT ITEMS IN THE BACK. 2.) WAIT ABOUT 5 MINS OR SO, AND THEN THE REMOTE WILL UNLOCK THE DOOR/WINDOW. 3.) DISCOVERED THAT PUTTING THE KEY BACK IN AND TURNING IT TO ACCESSORY AND THEN REMOVING THE KEY, THE DOOR/WINDOW CAN BE UNLOCKED. NOT SURE WHAT THE STORY IS OR EXACTLY WHAT STEPS MUST BE DONE FOR THIS ISSUE TO OCCUR, BUT IT OCCURS OFTEN. USUALLY THE SEQUENCE IS, SHUT THE CAR ENGINE OFF, REMOVE THE KEY, SHUT OFF THE CARS LIGHTS, THEN TRY TO ACCESS THE BACK WITH THE REMOTE. WHEN THAT DOESN'T WORK, TRY OPENING THE CAR DOOR AND UNLOCKING ALL THE DOORS AGAIN. THIS WON'T WORK EITHER. TRY LOCKING THE VEHICLE AGAIN USING THE REMOTE AND TRY OPENING UP THE DOORS AND THE BACK. I BELIEVE THAT THE 'DOORS' WILL UNLOCK AT ALL TIMES, BUT NOT THE BACK OR THE BACK WINDOW. REALLY A PAIN......AND EMBARRASSING TO HAVE PEOPLE WATCH YOU TRY TO GET INTO THE BACK OF THE CAR, WHEN THERE SHOULD BE NO PROBLEM. *TR

WHILE DRIVING ON THE ROAD, THE POWER STEERING FAILED IN THE MIDDLE. THERE WAS NO POWER TO THE STEERING ET ALL. PULLED OVER, STOPPED THE CAR AND RESTARTED IT WENT AWAY. DROVE COUPLE OF MORE MILES, AGAIN WHEN THE CAR WENT BACK TO DRIVE ON BATTERY POWER THE POWER STEERING FAILED AGAIN.HAD TO STOP AND RESTART AGAIN. THE "WRENCH" SYMBOL CAME ON THE DASHBOARD. TOOK IT TO THE MECHANIC , HE SAID THE CODE SHOWS POWER STEERING MODULE INSIDE THE STEERING IS "BAD", CHECKED WITH MAZDA AND THEY SAID THERE IS NO RECALL ON POWER STEERING FOR MAZDA TRIBUTE , BUT ONLY TO MAZDA 3 AND 5. *TR

AS OTHERS HAVE REPORTED, I COULD NOT DEPRESS THE ACCELERATOR. IT WAS STUCK. THIS HAPPENED ABOUT 3 TIMES DURING A DRIVE CROSS COUNTRY. IT REALLY WASN'T THAT COLD - IN THE 40S OR 50S. NO MATTER HOW HARD I PRESSED (WHILE THE CAR WAS RUNNING AND IN NEUTRAL), IT WOULDN'T GO DOWN. FINALLY AFTER TRYING IT A NUMBER OF TIMES, I COULD DEPRESS THE ACCELERATOR AND DRIVE. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS, AS ONE IS TRYING TO TURN INTO TRAFFIC AND NOTHING HAPPENS OTHER THAN ROLLING FORWARD SINCE THERE IS NO ACCELERATION. THIS SHOULD BE A MAJOR RECALL TO REPAIR THIS ISSUE!!!! *TR

ACCELERATOR PEDAL GETS STUCK IN PARTIAL ACCELERATION POSITION DURING ACCELERATION AND WILL NOT PRESS DOWN FURTHER PAST PARTIAL TO FULL ACCELERATION DURING COLD MORNINGS TO ACCELERATE FASTER (LESS THAN 35 DEGREES FARENHEIT). PEDAL TYPICALLY WORKS FINE AFTER VEHICLE WARMS UP. RELEASING PRESSURE FROM PEDAL USUALLY ALLOWS PEDAL TO RETURN TO REST/NOMINAL POSITION FOR NEXT ATTEMPT TO PRESS DOWN TO ACCELERATE. SOMETIMES IT IS STUCK AGAIN SOMETIMES IT WORKS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 MAZDA TRIBUTE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT TRANSMISSION FLUID WAS LEAKING FROM THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT HE BELIEVE THAT THE TRANSMISSION COOLER WAS CRACKED AND CAUSING THE LEAK. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 90,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 108,000. UPDATED 05/08/12*LJ THE CONSUMER ALSO STATED THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS WERE NOISY, AND HAD BEEN SINCE THE DAY THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED AND THE OUTER TIE RODS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. UPDATED 05/30/12

I PURCHASED MY MAZDA TRIBUTE NEW IN 2007. THIS PROBLEM STARTED IN 2010 IN THE WINTER. FROM TIME TO TIME, THE GAS PEDAL WOULD STICK IN THE UPRIGHT POSITION, USUALLY WHEN ACCELERATING FROM A FULL STOP, BUT SOMETIMES DRIVING IN TRAFFIC. THE PAST FEW WEEKS, MY SON HAS BEEN DRIVING THE CAR AND HAS NOTICED THE STICKING PEDAL SITUATION ALSO. I HAD ASKED THE DEALERSHIP PREVIOUSLY TO CHECK THIS OUT, BUT THEY SAID THEY COULD NOT GET THE PEDAL TO STICK WHEN THEY DROVE IT. I AM TAKING IT BACK IN TOMORROW AND LEAVING IT SO THEY CAN TEST IT AFTER IT IS COLD FOR A WHILE. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS. I HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WHEN STOPPED TO MAKE A LEFT TURN, AND THEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE TO MAKE THE TURN. SO FAR I HAVE BEEN LUCKY, BUT LEFT TURNS AFTER A FULL STOP ARE SCARY TO SAY THE LEAST. *TR

MY GAS PEDAL KEEPS STICKING ON OCCASION WHEN IN IDLE OR SLOW DRIVING. I NEED TO PRESS THE GAS PEDAL HARDER TO GET IT FROM BEING STUCK AND THEN MY VEHICLE LUNGES FORWARD. CALLED FOR A SERVICE APPOINTMENT. *TR