2012 MINI COOPER COUNTRYMAN Complaints

I KEEP HAVING PROBLEMS ELECTRIC PROBLEMS ENGINE LIGHTS COME ON COIL BROKE BROKE DOWN WON'T START

I'M JUST NOTICING A COOLANT LEAK PUDDLING UP UNDER FROM WHAT I WAS TOLD WAS THE THERMOSTAT OR IT'S HOUSING OR BOTH.. MY ENGINE SOUNDS LIKE IT'S RUNNING WITH NO OIL. I GO TO CHECK THE DIPSTICK AND THE OIL AT THE VERY END OF IT SEEMS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCURATELY READ, BECAUSE IT'S NOT UNIFORM IN IT'S COATING AT THE TIP OF IT. LIKE IF IT WAS SPLASHED ON. NOT SURE IF THE AUXILIARY COOLING SYSTEM IS EVEN WORKING ANYMORE, WHICH USED TO RUN FOR A MINUTE OR TWO AFTER ENGINE SHUT DOWN. I'M ADDING THE OEM SPECIFIED COOLANT ALONG WITH WATER, 50/50, EVERY DAY NOW, BECAUSE THE RESERVOIR SHOWS IT'S LOSS OF COOLANT. VIN CHECK SHOWS NO RECALLS, BUT I'M HAVING THE SAME ISSUES AS THE RECALLS. I JUST WANT MY VEHICLE RUNNING LIKE IT WAS WHEN I FIRST GOT. I BEGAN FINANCE ON THE VEHICLE LESS THAN A YEAR AGO, AND I STILL OWE 16K ON IT. I SHOULDN'T BE WORRIED ABOUT THE CAR DYING OUT ON ME ALREADY. BAD ENOUGH I WORK 35 MINUTES AWAY AND PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION INCLUDING HELP FROM ANYONE IS ALSO PRETTY MUCH IMPOSSIBLE. IT'S STRESSING ME OUT BIG TIME. I CAN'T AFFORD TO GET FIRED. WHERE I WORK, THEY DON'T CARE ABOUT MY ISSUES. I ALSO REQUIRE AN IID EQUIPPED VEHICLE, SO RENTALS ARE OUT OF THE QUESTION, OTHERWISE, I PROBABLY WOULDN'T BE HERE WRITING THIS MESSAGE! THANK YOU. I REALLY FEEL UNSAFE BEING ON THE HIGHWAY AS WHO KNOWS IF MY CAR'S ENGINE EVEN HAS OIL. OR IF THE COOLANT HOSES WILL JUST BLOW OFF. EITHER WAY, I FEEL LIKE I'M RIDING WITH DEFECTIVE EQUIPMENT. I TRIED TO BABY THIS CAR DRIVING, BECAUSE I CAN'T AFFORD A 16K BROKEN CAR. I FEEL TRAPPED.

HIGH PRESSURE FUEL RAIL DEVELOPED A CRACK AT A BRAZEN JOINT. HIGH PRESSURE FUEL WAS THEN BEEN RELEASED IN THE VICINITY OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM. STRONG FUEL SMELL IN CABIN AND NEAR VEHICLE. NO FIRE OR DAMAGE RESULTED. VEHICLE REPAIRED AT OWNERS EXPENSE.

WHILE DRIVING EAST ON INTERSTATE 40, I WAS APPROXIMATELY 50 MILES EAST OF ASHEVILLE, NC WHEN I HEARD A VERY LOUD BOOM THAT SOUNDED LIKE A GUN SHOT. IT THEN SOUNDED AS IF A WINDOW WERE OPEN AND I COULD FEEL OUTSIDE AIR, THEN I SOON DISCOVERED A LARGE HOLE IN MY SUNROOF.

I PURCHASED THE USED 2012 MINI COOPER COUNTRYMAN, I DROVE IT FOR 84 DAYS, AND WHILE I WAS DRIVING THE CAR THE ENGINE SUDDENLY WENT DEAD ON THE ROAD AND STOPPED WORKING. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER WHERE I BOUGHT IT FROM AFTER TWO WEEKS THEY SAID THE TIMING CHAIN BROKE AND CAUSED IT TO DESTROY THE ENGINE, NOW I HAVE TO PAY FOR THE NEW ENGINE. I CHECKED ON LINE TO SEE IF THERE WERE ANY PROBLEMS WITH TIMING CHAIN ON THESE CARS, MINI SAID THEY HAD PROBLEMS IN THE PREVIOUS MODEL CARS THAT MADE AND THEY FIXED THE PROBLEM, APPARENTLY THE PROBLEM STILL EXIST IN THE NEWER MODELS.

WHILE TRAVELING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS THE CAR LOST THE ABILITY TO ACCELERATE AND INSTEAD LURCHED AND CHOKED. THE MECHANIC DETERMINED THAT THE THROTTLE BODY BROKE FREE OF ITS HOUSING. LUCKILY I WAS ABLE TO MOVE THE CAR TO AN OFF-RAMP THAT SLOPED DOWNHILL TO GET TO SAFETY.

MY 2012 MINI COOPER COUNTRYMAN WITH 30,000 MILES IS REQUIRING REPLACEMENT OF THE THERMOSTAT AND WATER PUMP - BOTH OF WHICH WERE RECALLED AND REPLACED ON THE 2011 MINI COOPER COUNTRYMAN. THERE ARE NOT ANY PARTS IN THE UNITED STATES CURRENTLY TO FIX THE CAR. WE WILL BE WITHOUT OUR CAR FOR NEARLY 3 TO 4 WEEKS WHILE WE WAIT FOR THESE PARTS AND WE HAVE BEEN TOLD NOT TO DRIVE OUR CAR ON THE HIGHWAY. THE DEALER SAID TOUGH LUCK.

TIMING CHAIN STRETCHED CAUSING TIMING TO BE OFF BY 75MM, THIS RESULTED IN DAMAGE TO THE ECCENTRIC SHAFT AND TIMING CHAIN. ENGINE ENGINE MALFUNCTION LIGHT ILLUMINATED, UPON INSPECTION AT MINI DEALER DETERMINED THE ABOVE CONDITION OF VEHICLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MINI COOPER COUNTRYMAN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT 40 MPH, THE ENGINE SPUTTERED AND THERE WAS SMOKE COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT POWERED OFF AND RESTARTED THE VEHICLE. UPON FURTHER INSPECTION, THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT OIL WAS LEAKING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE HOSE PIPE AND FREEZE PLUG OVERHEATED AND MELTED WHICH CAUSED THE ENGINE TO REQUIRE TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 44,000.

UPON ENTERING AN EXIT ONLY LINE ON THE HIGHWAY AT THE END OF A 400 MILE JOURNEY, TRAFFIC BACKED UP AND CAME TO A STOP IN THE EXIT ONLY LANE. WHEN TRAFFIC STARTED MOVING AGAIN, MY CAR WHICH HAS A MANUAL TRANSMISSION WOULD NOT SHIFT FROM NEUTRAL INTO 1ST GEAR (OR ANY GEAR). I WAS STOPPED AND UNABLE TO MOVE WITH TRAFFIC MOVING 50-60 MPH BEHIND ME AND NEXT TO ME. CARS SLAMMED ON BRAKES TO AVOID HITTING ME AND ONE ALMOST HIT ME AFTER SLAMMING ON ITS BREAKS AND TURNING SIDEWAYS. IT WAS ONE OF THE MOST TERRIFYING EXPERIENCES I HAVE EVER ENCOUNTERED. A STATE POLICE OFFICE PULLED UP BEHIND ME AFTER ABOUT 5-10 MINUTES AND WAS ABLE TO PUSH ME TO THE BREAKDOWN LANE. THERE WAS A TERRIBLE BURNING SMELL AND CONSIDERABLE SMOKE FROM UNDER THE CAR WHICH INDICATED A CATASTROPHIC FAILURE OF THE CLUTCH. THE CAR WAS TOWED TO AN AUTO REPAIR SHOP WHERE I LATER LEARNED THE CLUTCH MATERIAL HAD DISINTEGRATED ENTIRELY AND THE FLYWHEEL WAS CRAZED AND BURNED FROM THE EXTREME HEAT. BOTH THE CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL HAD TO BE REPLACED. THE COST TO REPAIR THE CAR WAS OVER $4000. THE CAR HAD 78,067 MILES ON IT AND PRIOR TO THE CATASTROPHIC FAILURE OF THE CLUTCH THERE WERE ONLY 2 INDICATIONS OF A POTENTIAL CLUTCH PROBLEM WHEN THE TACHOMETER FLUTTERED WHEN SHIFTING INTO HEAR AT ABOUT 300 MILES PRIOR TO THE INCIDENT AND THEN ABOUT 25 MILES PRIOR TO THE INCIDENT, INDICATING TO ME THAT THE CLUTCH WAS STARTING TO SLIP. OTHER THAN THAT, THERE WERE NO WARNING LIGHTS OR OTHER INDICATIONS OF A PROBLEM. THE CAR IS ROUTINELY SERVICED BY THE DEALER AND WHENEVER THERE IS ANY INDICATION OF A PROBLEM. I DO NOT DRIVE CARS HARD. THIS CAR IS STILL ON ITS FIRST SET OF BRAKES AND ONLY ITS SECOND SET OF TIRES. I HAVE DRIVEN MANUAL SHIFT CARS FOR MANY YEARS AND KNOW THE SYMPTOMS OF A FAILING CLUTCH. I CONSIDER THE NEAR CATASTROPHE THAT I EXPERIENCED THE RESULT OF A MAJOR DEFECT IN EITHER THE CLUTCH OR THE WARNING MECHANISM.