2013 NISSAN ALTIMA Complaints

THE REAR LOWER SUSPENSION LINK BROKE WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH ON A WELL MAINTAINED HIGHWAY CAUSING A LOSS OF CONTROL.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 20V315000 (LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES) HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE RECALL REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT CALLED AUTONATION TOYOTA TEMPE (7970 S. AUTOPLEX LOOP, TEMPE, AZ 85284, (480) 420-3425) WHERE IT WAS CONFIRMED THAT THE PART WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE PARALLEL PARKING, THE CONTACT HEARD AN ABNORMALLY LOUD SOUND AND NOTICED THAT THE PASSENGER'S SIDE REAR TIRE WAS TILTED INWARD. THE CONTACT STATED NO WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH THE CONTROL ARM NEEDING TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER HAD BEEN INFORMED OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE VIN WAS NOT UNDER RECALL. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 95,000.

UNABLE TO SHIFT INTO GEAR WHEN ENGAGING FOOT BRAKE WHEN STARTING VEHICLE. SHIFT IS STUCK IN PARK. HAVE TO USE TOOL IN SHIFT LOCK RELEASE TO MOVE BETWEEN GEARS TO DRIVE CAR. I WAS DRIVING AND WAS STOPPED AT A RAILWAY CROSSING. PUT CAR IN PARK. ONCE TRAIN HAD PASSED I TRIED TO PUT CAR IN DRIVE POSITION AND WAS UNABLE TO DO SO. AFTER READING MANUAL I DISCOVERED THAT IF A FAULT OCCURS YOU MUST USE A TOOL ON THE SHIFT LOCK BUTTON RELEASE TO MOVE VEHICLE. VERY DANGEROUS.

CAN'T SHIFT OUT OF PARK. MULTIPLE NISSAN VEHICLES OF THIS EXACT MODEL YEAR HAVE THE SAME ISSUE. OVER 500+ COMPLAINTS HAVE BEEN MADE ABOUT THE SHIFT LEVER GETTING STUCK IN PARK, AND THE ISSUE IS DUE TO A WEAK PLASTIC BIT THAT BREAKS ON THE INSIDE OF THE CENTER CONSOLE. THIS WOULD BE A MAJOR ISSUE FOR SOMEONE TRYING TO MOVE THEIR CAR WHEN STUCK IN TRAFFIC AFTER PUTTING IN PARK, ONLY TO REALIZE THEY CAN'T TAKE IT OUT OF PARK. I CONTACTED MY LOCAL NISSAN DEALER, TO WHICH QUOTED ME 400$ FOR THE REPAIR COSTS AND THEN LET ME KNOW OF MULTIPLE PEOPLE WHO HAVE CALLED WITH THE SAME COMPLAINT. THIS TYPICALLY HAPPENS AROUND 75,000 MILES. THIS CAN BE A MAJOR SAFETY CONCERN, AND SHOULD BE RECALLED DUE TO THE NUMBER OF ISSUES THAT OWNERS HAVE HAD WITH THE EXACT MODEL.

HEADLIGHT VISIBILITY IS AWFUL. I KEEP TAKING IT TO NISSAN TO HAVE IT CHECKED AND THEY TELL ME THEY DO NOT SEE ANYTHING WRONG. MY BIGGEST ISSUE IS I AM AFRAID I WILL HAVE A CAR ACCIDENT AT NIGHT CAUSE MY LIGHTS AS SO DIM IT LOOK LIKE I AM DRIVING WITH MY PARK LIGHTS ON.

CAR STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS WHEN ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE, BEGAN JERKING AND A SHAKING RANDOMLY WHILE DRIVING. THESE PROBLEMS STARTED AROUND 70,000 MILES. RECENTLY MY CAR STARTED JERKING WHILE TRYING TO DRIVE OUT OF A SUBDIVISION THEN THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND ALSO THE TRACTION LIGHT. I COULDN'T ACCELERATE SO I SAFELY PULLED TO SIDE OF ROAD BECAUSE IT FELT LIKE I LOST POWER. I WAS ABLE TO TAKE IT TO AUTOZONE NEARBY WHERE THE SCANNER READ A CODE FOR A STUCK SOLENOID. AFTER TAKING IT TO NISSAN DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY WERE SUPPOSED TO WORK ON RECALLS RELATED TO MY VEHICLE (INCLUDING A CVT REPROGRAMMING),THEY CALLED ME AND TOLD ME THE TRANSMISSION COMPLETELY WENT OUT WHEN MECHANIC TRIED PULLING IT INTO SHOP. NOW I'M STUCK WITH A CAR I CAN'T DRIVE AND CAN'T AFFORD TO FIX. THEY QUOTED ME $4200 TO REPLACE A TRANSMISSION THAT SEEMS TO BE FAULTY IN THE FIRST PLACE. YOUR CUSTOMERS NEED TO BE COMPENSATED FOR THIS. AN EXTENDED WARRANTY SHOULDN'T HAVE BEEN THE ONLY SOLUTION. I'LL NEVER BUY A NISSAN AGAIN AND WILL BE AVOIDING CVT TRANSMISSIONS IF POSSIBLE.

THE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS HAVE DIMMED PROGRESSIVELY OVER TIME TO THE POINT THAT IT IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE AT NIGHT & HAVE TO END UP USING HIGH BEAMS TO GET SOME VISIBILITY

WHEN PUSHING THE GAS ON THE HIGHWAY OR THE STREETS IT FEELS LIKE THE POWER OF THE CAR IS HOLDING BACK. FEELS LIKE THE GEARS ARE MESSING UP. AND THERE'S PROBLEM WITH CATALYST CONVERTER. IT'S ALWAYS SHOWING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT EVEN AFTER I HAVE TRIED OTHER SOLUTIONS ON FIXING THAT AND THE GAS ODOMETER IS NOT READING THE GAS LEVELS RIGHT EITHER. PLUS THE PASSENGER SEAT BUCKLE IS STUCK AND DOESN'T LATCH TO THE SEAT BELT FOR A HOLD FROM A CAR ACCIDENT. LIKE YOU HAVE TO REALLY PUSH HARD FOR THE SEAT BELT TO HOLD ON.

AFTER GETTING A WHEEL ALIGNMENT I WAS TOLD THEY (AMERICAS TIRES) COULDNT GET THE SPECS SPOT ON IN THE REAR DUE TO TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES THEY WERE HAVING WITH THEIR SYSTEM I CONTINUED TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE AS I NORMALLY DO. AFTER A COUPLE WEEKS I HAD NOTICE MY REAR TIRE TREAD WAS SIGNIFICANTLY DEPLETING THUS MAKING ME BUY NEW TIRES AGAIN FOR THE 3RD TIME. I WENT BACK TO AMERICAS TIRES FOR ANOTHER ALIGNMENT ADJUSTMENT AND WITH THEIR SYSTEM UP AND RUNNING PROPERLY I WAS TOLD THAT MY REAR CONTROL ARM WAS GOING TO NEED TO BE REPLACED. THIS BEING ONLY A MONTH SFTER I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY HAD SUPPOSEDLY FIXED A RECALL DEALING WITH REAR SUSPENSION. TO THIS DAY MY CAR MAKES A SKIDDING/SCREECHING SOUND WHEN IM ON THE FREEWAY AND CAUSES IT TO EAT UP MY TIRES YET AGAIN, IVE ALREADY HAD A BLOWOUT HAPPEN AS WELL ON THE RIGHT REAR SIDE WHERE I WAS TOLD THE CONTROL ARM NEEDED TO BE CHANGED AND I CAN FEEL MY CAR PULL SIDE TO SIDE WHEN REACHING FREEWAY SPEED LIMITS AND FEELS VERY UNSAFE.