SATURN Complaints

THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. UPON BEING INSPECTED BY AN IN DEPENDENT GARAGE, IT WAS DETERMINED TO BE A TIMING CHAIN FAILURE. SHOULD THIS BE COVERED UNDER 07V-519? *TR

MY SATURN IS EXHIBITING THE BRAKE LIGHT PROBLEM REPORTED IN MEDIA. I HAVE VIDEOS AND PHOTOS SHOWING THE BRAKE LIGHTS ON WITHOUT PEDAL DEPRESSED AND MOST CONCERNING THE BRAKE LIGHTS NOT COMING ON WHEN BRAKE PEDAL PUSHED. I'VE HAD CAR SERVICED AT DEALERSHIP TWICE AND HAVE FOLLOWED THE TSB ON WIRE CORROSION AND PROBLEM STILL EXISTS. IT EXISTED THIS MORNING. I BORROWED A TECH 2 COMPUTER AND HAVE VIDEO AND PHOTOS OF THE PROBLEM WITH THE BRAKE SENSOR. THE BRAKE PEDAL POSITION READS A NEGATIVE POSITION OF -50 AND THIS TURNS ON THE BRAKE LIGHT. WHEN BRAKE LIGHTS ACTING NORMAL IT READS A BRAKE PEDAL POSITION OF +3. AS YOU PUSH THE BRAKES DOWN THE PEDAL POSITION INCREASES FROM THE STARTING NEGATIVE VALUE UNTIL IT GETS TO 50 AND THEN THE BRAKE LIGHTS TURN ON. SO I HAVE A 100 POINT TRAVEL WHERE THE BRAKE LIGHTS WORK THE OPPOSITE. I HAVE THIS ALL ON VIDEO. ALSO, WHEN THIS PROBLEM IS APPEARING, IF I DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL AND RELEASE IT, THE BRAKE LIGHT GOES OFF. I THEN COUNT TO FIVE AND THE BRAKE LIGHT COMES ON. THIS IS PROBABLY DUE TO THE COMPUTER GOING INTO SOME ALARM MODE. IF I DRIVE DOWN THE STREET PUSHING BRAKE PEDAL EVERY FIVE SECONDS, THE BRAKE LIGHT STAYS OFF. I WILL RETURN THE VEHICLE TO DEALER AND SHOW MY VIDEO. THE PROBLEM IS INTERMITTENT AND GOES AWAY WHEN THE CAR/COCKPIT WARMS UP. IT DOESN'T HAPPEN ALL THE TIME AND WHEN IT DOES HAPPEN IT GOES AWAY AFTER ABOUT FIVE MILES OF DRIVING. *TR UPDATED 03/27/13*LJ

CAR SUDDENLY LOST THE ABILITY TO ACCELERATE, FOLLOWED BY THE TRANSMISSION LIGHT COMING ON. HAD TO VEER ACROSS LANE TO PREVENT BLOCKING TRAFFIC. WAS TOLD BY MY MECHANIC THAT THE "TRANSMISSION WENT OUT" AND WOULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED, THOUGH I STILL NEED TO VERIFY THIS WITH A TRANSMISSION SPECIALIST. IN LOOKING FOR PEOPLE WITH SIMILAR ISSUES THAT EVENING, I FOUND THAT THERE IS AN ONGOING NHTSA INVESTIGATION FOR THIS ISSUE (EA11-015). *TR

WE WERE TRAVELING DOWN A HIGHWAY WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THE VEHICLE RPM REVS UP AND THE ENGINE GEARS ARE NO LONGER ENGAGED. WE COULD ONLY DRIVE 30MPH TO PREVENT THE RPM'S FROM GOING TOO HIGH. ALSO, NO REVERSE GEAR. TOWED INTO GM DEALERSHIP AND TRANSMISSION BROKEN DOWN AND THE WAVE PLATE IS WHAT WAS DAMAGED. WAVE PLATE REPLACED AND GM REFUSED TO PAY FOR ALL OF REPAIR. SAID IT WAS NOT THEIR PROBLEM SINCE POWERTRAIN WARRANTY WENT OUT 2 MONTHS AGO. THEY HAVE A SERVICE BULLETIN OUT, BUT STILL REFUSE TO ACKNOWLEDGE THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL FROM GM ON THIS FAULTY PART SINCE THEY REFUSE TO ADMIT THAT THERE ARE ISSUES WITH THESE MODEL'S TRANSMISSION. THE FOLLOWING IS THE SERVICE BULLETIN LISTED FOR THIS PROBLEM. BULLETIN NO.: 09-07-30-012A DATE: JANUARY 12, 2010 SUBJECT: NO REVERSE, 3RD OR 5TH, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATED, DTC P0776 (REPLACE 3-5 REVERSE CLUTCH PLATE (WAVED) MODELS: 2008-2009 BUICK ENCLAVE 2008-2009 CHEVROLET EQUINOX, MALIBU 2009 CHEVROLET TRAVERSE 2007-2009 GMC ACADIA 2007-2009 PONTIAC G6 2008-2009 PONTIAC TORRENT 2007-2009 SATURN AURA, OUTLOOK 2008-2009 SATURN VUE ALL EQUIPPED WITH 6T70/75 6-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (RPOS MH2, MH4, MH6 OR MY9). *TR

LOAD METAL CLANG ON BUMPS ? DRIVER SIDE FRONT. THE BUTTON BUSHING IS CONTAINED IN A METAL RING THAT IS PRESSED INTO THE ARM. THE RING DOES NOT SEPARATE FROM THE CONTROL ARM. THE PROBLEM IS THE BUSHING IS NOT SECURED WELL ENOUGH IN THAT RING (THE RING IS NOT CRIMPED AROUND THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE BUSHING AS IT SHOULD BE) AND SEPARATES ALLOWING THE WHOLE ARM TO GO UP AND BUMP AGAINST THE FRAME CAUSING A LOUD CLANG WHEN THE SUSPENSION REBOUNDS FROM A BUMP. IT IS EASILY DIAGNOSED BY VISUAL INSPECTION SEEING THE REAR AREA OF THE CONTROL ARM UP AGAINST THE FRAME. I CAN SEE THE BUSHING SHREDDING AS A WEAR ISSUE BUT THIS IS A DEFECT WHERE THE BUSING IS FAILING BECAUSE IT IS NOT SECURED AS IT SHOULD BE. I REPLACED IT MYSELF AND MADE THIS VIDEO OF IT. MANY OTHERS HAVE THE SAME ISSUE. *TR

THE CAR, WHEN JUST WEEKS OLD, SMELLED OF GAS COMING FROM THE FRONT GRILLE, A STRONG ODOR 5 MINUTES AFTER SHUTTING IT OFF. DEALER CHECKED SAID ALL WAS NORMAL. ALONG WITH THIS ISSUE WAS A LOSS OF VACUUM IN THE BRAKE ASSIST CANISTER WHEN IT SAT IN THE DRIVEWAY ? WHEN YOU GOT IN THE CAR THE BRAKE THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS ROCK-HARD. THERE SHOULD BE 5 ? 10 PUMPS OF VACUUM IN THE CANISTER ON ANY CAR. THIS IS NOTICEABLE IN A STICK SHIFT (IT IS) OR ANY CAR YOU HAVE TO STEP ON THE BRAKE FOR THE INTERLOCKED STARTER. DEALER CHECKED ALSO SAID WAS NORMAL. THEN ABOUT TWO YEARS AFTER THE SMELL OF GAS STOPPED ALTOGETHER AND THE POWER ASSIST SEEMED NORMAL AS THE PEDDLE HAD POWER WHEN THE CAR WAS LEFT TO SIT. ABOUT 6 MONTHS AGO THE GAS SMELL STARTED COMING BACK WHEN IT WAS PARKED ? THIS TIME FOR JUST A MINUTE OR SO ? INTERMITTENT. THEN ABOUT 3 MONTHS AGO IT STARTED GETTING WORSE ? NOT JUST WHEN THE CAR WAS SHUT OFF BUT NOW GAS ODOR WITH CLOSED WINDOWS AT THE FIRST FEW LIGHTS YOU CAME TO AFTER STARTING THE CAR, WITH WINDOWS SHUT IN COLD WEATHER. NOW THE ODOR IS STRONG, SOMETIMES NAUSEATING AT TRAFFIC LIGHTS. THE BRAKE PEDAL ISSUE ALSO RETURNED IN FEBRUARY ON VERY COLD MORNINGS. I DO NOT KNOW IF A VACUUM LEAK AND A FUEL SMELL ARE RELATED HERE. I CANNOT SEE ANY LEAKING GAS OR SPOTS ON THE PAVEMENT AND I HAVE LOOKED A FEW DOZEN TIMES OVER THE TWO TIME PERIODS THIS PROBLEM(S) HAVE OCCURRED. A VERY STRONG SMELL OF GAS AND NO VISIBLE LEAK. I AM FAMILIAR THAT CAR IS RECALLED IN SOUTHERN STATES ONLY FOR A FUEL PUMP THAT HAS CRACKS IN THE PLASTIC RETURN LINES ? AND ALSO HAVE READ (ALTHOUGH CANNOT BE SURE IF THIS IS TRUE LEAK FUEL IN A POOL ON TOP OF THE TANK AND NOT DRIP AND THE EVAPORATING ODOR WILL MAKE ITS WAY FORWARD TO THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT OR THE BACK WHEEL WELLS - I CAN SMELL GAS IN THE REAR WHEEL WELLS ALSO ALTHOUGH SOMETIMES NOT AS STRONG AS THE GRILLE. *TR

I HAVE A 2008 SATURN OUTLOOK. ONE DAY I WAS DRIVING AND NOTICE I HAD A HEADLIGHT OUT. WENT TO CHANGE THE BULB AND SAW THAT THE WIRE HARNESS WAS MELTED. FROM READING ON THE INTERNET I SAW THAT A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. *TR

THERE IS A CLUNK SOUND IN THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE WHEN MOVING FROM A FULL STOP. A CLUNK CAN ALSO BE HEARD WHEN SLOWING DOWN PREPARING TO STOP. TOOK VEHICLE TO AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER, DEALER INDICATED THE STEERING SHAFT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AND A FULL 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT WOULD BE REQUIRED. REPAIRS ARE SCHEDULED FOR TWO WEEKS FROM TODAY. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 SATURN L200. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE MAKING A LEFT TURN, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND ALL THE WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A PRIVATE MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 80,000. *TR

MY 2007 SATURN OUTLOOK SUFFERED COMPLETE TRANSMISSION FAILURE AT ONLY 59,700 MILES. THE INCIDENT OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING ACROSS TOWN AT A RATE OF 25 MPH. CAR HAS BEEN BABIED SINCE WE GOT IT. BASICALLY AN ALL-WHEEL DRIVE MINI-VAN. NO OFF-ROAD ACTIVITIES. DID NOT USE IT TO PULL ANY TRAILERS OR OTHER VEHICLES. WAS A GREAT CAR UNTIL THIS OCCURRED. WARRANTY EXPIRED IN SEPT. OF 2012. I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO A LOCAL MECHANIC WHO SAID THAT THE "WAVE PLATES" HAD BROKEN AND CAUSED THE TRANSMISSION TO FAIL. I AM NOT A MECHANIC AND DO NOT KNOW MUCH ABOUT CARS, BUT I CONTACTED GM AND WAS TOLD THAT I HAD TO HAVE THE VEHICLE INSPECTED BY A CERTIFIED GM REPAIR SPECIALIST. SO, I HAD IT TOWED AGAIN TO A GM REPAIR SHOP AND THEY CONFIRMED THAT IT WAS THE WAVE PLATES THAT HAD FAILED. THEY ALSO INFORMED ME THAT THE WAVE PLATES WERE A UNIVERSAL PROBLEM FOR THIS MAKE AND MODEL OF CAR - THEY HAD REPAIRED NUMEROUS VEHICLES WITH THE SAME ISSUE... ALL TRANSMISSION FAILURES AT OR BEFORE 75,000 MILES. IN THEIR OPINION THIS WAS A DEFECTIVE PART AND THEY THOUGHT GM SHOULD ISSUE A RECALL. NO CAR SHOULD HAVE A COMPLETED TRANSMISSION FAILURE ON A VEHICLE THAT EARLY! GM CONTACTED THE REPAIR SHOP I WAS WORKING WITH AND INFORMED THEM THAT BECAUSE MY WARRANTY HAD EXPIRED, THE BEST THEY COULD DO WAS TO OFFER ME A "CO-PAYMENT" OF $1500 TO "REPAIR" THE TRANSMISSION. IF I WANTED TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE TRANSMISSION I WOULD HAVE TO PAY THE FULL COST OF $4500 OUT OF POCKET. I OPTED TO HAVE THE TRANSMISSION REPAIRED FOR $1500. I FELT IT WAS MY ONLY OPTION. CASH IS TIGHT AND $4500 OUT OF POCKET IS WAY TOO MUCH FOR WHAT IS OBVIOUSLY A DEFECTIVE PART. I DID NOT FEEL I SHOULD HAVE TO PAY ANYTHING AT ALL - GM BUILT A BAD VEHICLE. THESE VEHICLES SHOULD ALL BE RECALLED AND THE WAVE PLATES SHOULD ALL BE REPLACED - AND ALL OF IT SHOULD BE ON GM'S TAB. SO, NHTSB, DO YOUR JOB ... PUT PRESSURE ON GM AND GET THE RECALL IN PLACE. *TR