2015 TESLA MODEL S Complaints

The driver side screen and the central touch screen developed bubbles with multiple air fluid lines and bubbles. With the sun shining in from the side or rear of the vehicle, it made the screens nearly impossible to read. This created very unsafe driving conditions, as the driver was not able to see critical information from speed, dash board warnings, rear camera view and vital air conditioning functions such as defrost/defog. This was noticed within 1-2 days of having the recall repair for the VCM to upgrade 8GB eMMC. The Tesla Repair Center said the two events were not related. Ultimately, I was left to replace both screen through and infotainment system upgrade costing $2250.00.

The contact owns a 2015 Tesla Model S. The contact stated that the air bag warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed that there was a fault in the seat. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 138,000.

Front passenger door randomly opens on it's own. Usually vehicle is parked but has happened at low speeds (under 30 mph). Advised it's the door handle which has been "fixed" twice before while under warranty. Tesla will no longer fix without charging (warranty expired). If it's the door handle or the door this needs to be a recall issue for Tesla to fix. Please recall! Data below is for most recent occurrence. This has happened at least 3 times this calendar year (2023).

FOR THE SECOND TIME IN 1 YEAR BOTH MY FRONT SUSPENSION HAVE BROKEN OFF WHILE BACKING UP.LAST YEAR WAS MY PASSENGER SIDE TIRE JUST THIS WEEK MY DRIVERS SIDETIRE JUST FALLING OFF FROM BALL JOINTS. TESLA CONTINUES EMPHAZING IIMPACTED WITH SOMETHING AND THEY WOULD NOT FIX THE BROKEN JOINT, THEY HAVE REFERRED ME TO A BODY SHOP THAT I DISAGREE DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT DOES NOT HAVE ANY BODY NOR STRUCTURAL DAMAGE JUST THE POOR SUSPENSION AND BALL JOINTS THAT ARE ISTALLED IN TESLAS. SOMEDAY SOMEONE IS GOING TO GET HURT WHILE DRIVING AT AVG SPEED FROM THESE FAULTY PARTS. THANK YOU,

Tesla Model S began making clunking/grinding noise when reversing out of a driveway with the wheel fully turned. It turned out that the front left and right fore links have failed prematurely and caused the front wheels to rub on the wheel arch/fender. No potholes were ever hit to cause the damage. Car needed replacement parts totaling $979. A wheel alignment was also needed. Car only has 97,000 miles.

I had driven to a shopping center for buy a new backpack for my daughter who was starting school. After shopping, as I reversed my car, I felt as if I had gone over a bump. I came out to see if there was a bump or something else in the parking lot but found nothing that my car could have gone over. I got back in the car and started my drive and immediately, started hearing loud and griding noises. The noise would get worse as I would turn the steering wheel and the car would also seem as it is going over bumps. I immediately came out and look around and found nothing; I then looked at the wheel well and the surrounding area and didn't detect anything out of ordinary. I was able to drive the car home (roughly 1.5 miles) at speed no faster than 3-5 miles/hour without continuous loud and griding noise. I contacted Tesla who gave me an appointment for a week later. Inspection found fore-link broken. What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request? Left fore-link connected to the front suspension of the car. Part is available for inspection. How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk? The breakage of the part made the wheel get disconnected from the suspension. Had I been driving on a highway or other roadways at higher speed, my car would have certainly gotten out of control and endangered my life and the lives of others. Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center? This is a known issue that has been reported by many Tesla Model S owners. There is also a recall in China for the similar parts. Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others? Yes, it was inspected by Tesla service center. Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? There were no warnings or other symptoms prior to the failure of the fore-link.

When the car is put in parked mode the rear left door opens by itself causing a hazard to the passenger and/or to any nearby pedestrian.

Tesla is seemingly not producing replacement key fobs for early models. I have been attempting to order one for over two years and to my knowledge new stock has never once become available over that time. I have also checked with multiple dealerships in person. On older models, the key fob is required to operate the vehicle. I only have one working key fob. I am anxiously awaiting the day when it is lost or malfunctions and I am unable to rely on our only vehicle... seemingly indefinitely. Tesla cannot consider their mobile app as an alternative to physical key fob. I live in rural Vermont. It would be incredibly wreckless to rely on remote start/unlock. Internet connectivity is required on both the car and the mobile device on older models (newer models use Bluetooth locally).

the steering is hard to steer. I had to replace the i-shaft. It is dangerous to drive when it happens to you, I live in Wyoming and something needs to be done to stop these from going out, this is the second one I have had done since 11/11/21. I-SHAFT STEERING LINK - NON ISOLATOR - LOWER(1030622-00-A)

I drove through 3 inches of water at about 20mph, Nothing else in the car got wet, it cause the car to go into shutdown mode with a high voltage error. We had hell getting it to neutral as the computer kept shutting down. I am still under warranty but they claim the seal fail because of high water yet nothing else got wet and is not under warranty, only the drive unit and the motors are. Well with out the battery connection to the motors the car does not run. I have tried to deal with them and they refuse to do anything about it. I think the seal was installed incorrectly at the factory to allow this to happen, I do have parts to view.