BUICK Complaints

SES LIGHT PERIODICALLY KEEPS COMING ON BEGINNING AT 49,000 MILES IN 2015. IT IS ALWAYS REGARDING PROBLEM CAMSHAFT POSITION ACTUATOR SOLENOID/SENSOR CODE: P0014. IT CAME ON AGAIN LAST YEAR AT AROUND 82,000 MILES AND THEN CAME ON AGAIN 10 DAYS LATER. LAST YEAR DEALERSHIP MECHANIC AT LEAST KNEW SOMETHING ABOUT ENGINES AND SOME PARTS TO CHANGE INSTEAD OF JUST LETTING A COMPUTER TELL HIM WHAT PARTS SO CHANGED TIMING KIT AND WATER PUMP KIT FOR LOOSE CHAINS. HUMAN FIX WAS NOT THE END OF THE PROBLEM EITHER AS SAME PROBLEM HAPPENED THIS YEAR NOV-13-2018 AT 92,000. USUALLY WHEN IT HAPPENS VEHICLE RUNS ROUGH WHEN IDLING OR STALLS OUT ON ACCEL, BLOCKING THE ROADWAY UNTIL YOU CAN GET THE VEHICLE IN MOTION AGAIN. THIS YEAR DID NOT STALL OUT BUT MADE FUNNY TAPPING NOISE ON ACCEL/DECEL AND ALMOST ALL OF THE OIL WAS GONE, YET THE "LOW OIL LIGHT" NEVER CAME ON. SES DOES NOT COME ON UNTIL IT'S ALMOST TOO LATE. SEEMS LIKE THE PROBLEMS ARE FELT OR NOISES HEARD THE SLOWER THE VEHICLE IS MOVING. WITH AS OFTEN AS THIS PROBLEM OCCURS, I NOW BELIEVE SOME OTHER PART MUST BE MAKE THE CAMSHAFT SOLENOID GO BAD WHEN THE REPLACEMENT PARTS ARE ALSO GOING BAD. MAYBE THE ENTIRE ENGINE NEEDS TO BE RECALLED IF GM CANNOT DETERMINE THE PROBLEM.

AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT IS ON. HAS BEEN ON FOR SEVERAL MONTHS; NO GOES OFF AND ON INDICATING A LOOSE CONNECTION. MY VEHICLE DOES NOT SHOW A RECALL WHEN LOOKING UP THE VIN; HOWEVER THE 2013 BUICK ENCLAVE HAS AN ACTIVE RECALL FOR A LOOSE AIR BAG CONNECTION. I BELIEVE MY VEHICLE SHOULD BE INCLUDED IN THIS RECALL.

BOTH LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS STOPPED WORKING AT THE SAME TIME WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS STARTED. LIGHT SWITCH WAS IN "AUTO" POSITION. SWITCHING TO MANUAL POSITION - LOW BEAM LIGHTS STILL WON'T OPERATE. HIGH BEAM AND MARKER LIGHTS WORK AS THEY SHOULD. RESEARCHING CAUSE I FOUND A NHTSA RECALL NO.15V519000 (GM NO.14291) FOR A FAULTY HEADLAMP DRIVER MODULE (HDM) WHICH ADRESSED THE ISSUE. REACHED OUT TO BUICK AND WAS TOLD THE MODULE FOR THIS VEHICLE HAD ALREADY BEEN REPLACED IN 2016 (ORIGINAL OWNER), ISSUE CLOSED. I APPEALED THAT IF THE CORRECTIVE HDM FAILED AGAIN THEN THE SAME SAFETY ISSUE EXISTS AND THEY SHOULD REPLACE THE PART AT FAULT AS MANY TIMES AS NECESSARY OR MODIFY THE MODULE NOT TO FAIL CONTINUOUSLY. WHAT IS THE POLICY IF A RECALL FIX IS REPLACING WITH A FAULTY PART? THANK YOU.

TRANSMISSION FAILURE. NO REVERSE AND WILL NOT SHIFT PAST SECOND GEAR. VEHICLE IS LIMITED TO ABOUT 15-20 MPH.

CAR HAS ELECTRONIC CHILD SAFETY DOOR LOCKS ACTIVATED WHEN USING THE HARD BUTTON THAT TYPICALLY LOCKS ONLY WINDOWS. WIFE TOOK A NAP IN BACK SEAT ON LUNCH BREAK AT WORK, DIDN'T REALIZE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON WAS ACCIDENTALLY ENGAGED, LOCKED WITH REMOTE FROM BACK SEAT WHILE CAR WAS RUNNING. DOOR REMOTE WOULD NOT ALLOW THE BACK DOORS AND PASSENGER DOOR TO REMAIN LOCKED AND DOOR HANDLES WOULD NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE EVEN WHEN USING THE REMOTE. SHE WAS TRAPPED IN THE BACK. WITH A VERY BAD BACK AND KNEE IT WAS NOT EASY TO CLIMB TO FRONT DRIVER SIDE DOOR TO UNLOCK FROM THERE, THE ONLY PLACE THIS WOULD WORK. IF LOCKING WITH THE REMOTE, UNLOCKING WITH REMOTE SHOULD BE POSSIBLE AND WAS NOT. LITERALLY TRAPPED IN BACK SEAT AND ONLY WAY OUT IS TO GET TO THE FRONT SEAT TO UNLOCK FROM THERE. WHAT IF GRANDMA WAS BACK THERE WHEN SOMETHING HAPPENED LIKE CAR SHUT OFF? VERY BAD SITUATION AND A LIFE SAFETY ISSUE. I'VE NEVER OWNED A CAR THAT HAD ELECTRONIC CHILD LOCKS TIED TO WINDOW LOCK SWITCH. SHOULD NOT BE ALLOWED TO BE TRAPPED IN CAR. *TR

DURING FIRST SNOW OF THE SEASON HERE IN PA, HAD A WET/HEAVY SNOW. SNOW WAS REMOVED FROM WINDSHIELD, BUT NOT THE GULLY BELOW WIPERS. NO BIGGIE, THIS IS HOW WE'VE DONE IT ON EVERY CAR SINCE I WAS A KID, CLEANING OUT THE GULLY WHEN WIPERS CANNOT GO DOWN ALL THE WAY. AS I WAS DRIVING AND SNOW WAS COMING DOWN, SOME FROM ABOVE THE WINDSHIELD CAME DOWN AND ADDED TO WHAT WAS IN THE GULLY. THE WIPERS STOPPED WORKING! IMAGINE MY SURPRISE, THE WIPERS CAME TO A STOP AND WERE NOT MOVING. I COULD NOT SEE IF BLIZZARD LIKE CONDITIONS, PULLED OVER WHEN I COULD, AND STARTED SCRAPING OUT THE GULLY. WIPERS WERE FREAKING OUT DOING A SPASTIC SHORT SPURT AND WOULD NOT CLEAR. RE-STARTED CAR, AND DID THE SAME THING. HAD TO GET EVERY PIECE OF WET PACKED SNOW FROM AREA OF THE GULLY (UNDER WIPERS) AND RE-START CAR FOR WIPERS TO FUNCTION NORMALLY AGAIN. AGAIN, DRIVING, COMING TO A STOP TO MAKE A TURN, AND SNOW ABOVE THE WINDSHIELD THAT HAD ACCUMULATED IN THE HEAVY SNOW, FELL DOWN TO THE WIPER GULLY AND MADE WIPERS STOP COMPLETELY. IT SEEMS THE DESIGN OF THE WIPER MOTOR DOESN'T JUST STOP WHERE IT HAS TO STOP AND THEN KEEP WORKING, AS WITH 99.9 PERCENT OF OTHER CARS MADE IN THE LAST 50 YEARS, IF IT CANNOT RETURN TO COMPLETE HOME, IT JUST STOPS WORKING. NO CAR I'VE EVER OWNED HAS DONE ANYTHING LIKE THIS. TO MAKE MATTERS WORSE, THE WIPERS WERE STILL TRYING EVEN AFTER BEING TURNED OFF AND WAS PINCHING MY HAND AND FINGERS BETWEEN THE HOOD AND WIPER ARMS. AS THEY TRIED TO GET OUT OF THEIR SPASTIC MODE. IT WAS SO BAD, I TOOK A BATH ON TRADING IN THIS CAR FOR A CAR THAT IS KNOWN NOT TO HAVE THAT HAPPEN. AN AWD CAR THAT CANNOT DRIVE IN THE SNOW DUE TO A SERIOUS WIPER MALFUNCTION SHOULD NOT BE SOLD IN THE USA.

STEERING FREEZES UP IN MOSTLY DAMP, WET DAYS WHEN DRIVING VERY SLOW INTO PARKING AREA'S.....STEERING COMPLETELY LOCKS...CANNOT MOVE WHEEL AT ALL....AFTER A MINUTE OR LESS, I HEAR A NOISE AND THE WHEEL IS UNLOCKED... HAPPENED NUMEROUS TIMES OVER LAST TWO MONTHS , BUT SEEMS TO BE HAPPENING MORE PAST FEW WEEKS...I AM AFRAID TO DRIVE CAR...

WHEN ATTEMPTING TO OPEN THE REAR LIFT HATCH (USING EITHER MY KEY FOB, THE DASHBOARD CONTROL BUTTON, OR THE BUTTON ON THE REAR LIFT HATCH) WHILE THE VEHICLE IS PARKED, THE REAR LIFT HATCH RISES TO NEAR THE TOP. IT SUDDENLY STARTS CLOSING BEFORE IT GOES INTO A COMPLETE LIFT POSITION. THE PART THAT MAY BE DEFECTIVE IS UNKNOWN. I AM CONCERNED THAT SOMEONE COULD REACH IN THE REAR OF THE ENCLAVE TO GRAB ITEMS, AND THE HATCH CLOSES IN ON THE PERSON BEFORE THEY CAN ESCAPE.

RADIO SHUTS OFF FOR NO REASON AND COME BACK ON EITHER DRIVING OR IN PARK AND THE PROBLEM WITH THE TURN SIGNAL SOMETIMES

WHILE DRIVING IN THE CITY THE RPM'S WAS FLUCTUATING FROM AROUND 2,000 AND 3,000. AND ALSO GOT STUCK IN 3RD GEAR. ONCE CLEARED THE CODE IT WORKED A LITTLE, ONCE TRYING THE GEARS IN LOW THE CHANGING IN GEARS WAS MORE SMOOTH.