2008 CADILLAC ESCALADE Complaints

I WAS DRIVING ALONG AT ABOUT 45 MPH AND THE RPM S REVVED UP THE CAR WOULDN'T SHIFT INTO THIRD .I HAD TO PULL OVER SWITCH THE CAR OFF AND RESTART IT AFTER THAT IT DROVE FINE . SINCE THEN AT TIMES IT SHIFTS HARD INTO FIRST AND SECOND AND IT WILL GET STUCK IN SECOND SOMETIMES . AFTER I PULL OVER AND RESTART THE CAR IT STOPS . ALSO THE STABILATRACK LIGHT KEEPS COMING ON . I ALSO HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE LEFT SIDE RUNNING BOARD NOT CLOSING .

I WILL BE DRIVING AND LOSE ALL POWER! IT DOES IT AT DIFFERENT SPEEDS. ITS LIKE SOMEONE TURNS THE CAR OFF AND BACK ON. THE WEIRD THING IS IT WILL DO IT ALOT ONE DAY AND THEN IT DOESNT DO IT FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS. IT ALWAYS COMES BACK ON BUT IN TRAFFIC IT COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS. I HAVE HAD IT PUT ON COMPUTERS AND IT NEVER HAS SHOWED ANYTHING. AND I WAS READING ON RECALLS ON THE IGNITIONS AND THOUGHT IT COULD BE A PART OIF THE RECALL

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 CADILLAC ESCALADE. WHILE DRIVING AT 35 MPH, THE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED CONSTANTLY. THE MANUFACTURER SUGGESTED TAKING THE VEHICLE TO THE AUTHORIZED DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 97,000.

2008 CADILLAC ESCLADE. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO LEAKING HEAD LIGHTS. *SMD THE CONSUMER STATED WATER ENTERED THE HEADLIGHTS ON BOTH SIDES. *JB

MY VEHICLE WAS PARKED COMPLETELY OFF, WHEN AN ALARM TYPE OF SOUND STARTED RINGING. I LOOKED AT MY CAR AND I SEE SMOKE INSIDE BY THE DASH BOARD, I CALLED MY HUSBAND AND HE RUSHES OUTSIDE AND GRABBED A TOOL. HE OPENED UP THE HOOD AND ALOT MORE SMOKE CAME OUT, HE DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY WITH THE TOOL AND MY UNCLE GRABBED THE HOSE AND WATER DOWN THE ENGINE PART OF THE CAR. THE FIRE WENT OUT AND I RIGHT AWAY CONTACT ME INSURNACE.THE WHOLE ELECTRICAL FUSE BOX IS BURN AND IM NOT SURE WHAT ELSE IS DAMAGE IN THE DASH BOARD. *TR

FIRST I WOULD LIKE TO NOTE THAT THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THIS ISSUE HAS OCCURRED.THAT BEING SAID YOU CAN UNDERSTAND WHY A PERSON WOULD BE FRUSTRATED WHEN THEY DISH OUT AN ESTIMATED 700 DOLLARS FOR REPAIRS ONLY TO BE FACING THE SAME ISSUE NO MORE THAN A YEAR LATER.THE PROBLEM IS WITH GM'S HEATED SEAT DESIGN. THIS IS NOT AN ISOLATED ISSUE; DOING A QUICK SEARCH WILL BRING SEVERAL FORUM THREADS WITH USERS REPORTING THE SAME ISSUES.WITH THE CURRENT STATUS OF GM IN REGARDS TO FAILURE TO ACT ON POTENTIAL FIRE HAZARDS, IT'S NO SURPRISE THAT THEY ARE TURNING A BLIND EYE HERE. THEY ARE FULLY AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND WILL NOT TAKE THE TIME TO FIND THE ROOT CAUSE. SEVERAL USERS HAVE REPORTED RECURRING ISSUES EVEN AFTER THE "FIRE HAZARD" HAS BEEN FIXED/REPLACED BY THE DEALER AT THE OWNERS EXPENSE. THIS ISSUE HAPPENS WHEN I USE THE AUTO START FEATURE IN COLD WHETHER.I LIVE IN MINNESOTA AND THE TEMPERATURES GET RATHER COLD, IT'S REALLY NICE TO USE THIS FEATURE WHENEVER POSSIBLE, HOWEVER, WHEN USING THE AUTO START IN COLD WEATHER, SEVERAL USERS AS WELL AS MYSELF HAVE REPORTED THAT THIS IS WHAT IS CAUSING THE MELTING WIRES DUE TO RESISTANCE ISSUES RELATING TO THE COLD WEATHER. THE WIRES UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT GET SO HOT THAT YOU CAN ACTUALLY SMELL IT BURNING AS WELL AS VISUALLY SEE THE BURN DAMAGE UPON INSPECTING THE CONTROL UNIT WHICH IS UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT. THE SCARIEST PART OF IT ALL IS THAT NO FUSE WILL TRIP DURING THIS HAZARDOUS PROCESS. THE WIRE WILL SIMPLE MELT TO THE POINT WHERE IT WILL NO LONGER MAKE A GOOD CONTACT AND THEN "HOPEFULLY" QUIT WORKING WITHOUT CAUSING ADDITIONAL DAMAGE. IT'S ONLY A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE A REPORT COMES IN OF A VEHICLE BURNING TO THE GROUND, HOPEFULLY NO ONE WILL BE HURT BECAUSE OF GM'S FAILURE TO ACT "AGAIN". EITHER WAY, IF IT DOES, I WILL BE CONTACTING THE NEWS AND SUPPLYING THEM THIS SUBMISSION AS PROOF THAT A COMPLAINT WAS FILED. *TR

I HAD A HEADLIGHT THAT WAS OUT AND NOT WORKING DUE TO CONDENSATION AND MOISTURE BUILD UP. I WAS GOING TO GET IT FIXED AND WAS SCHEDULED FOR A FEW DAYS OUT TO GET IT REPAIRED. WHILE I WAS TRYING (AT NIGHT) THE OTHER ONE WENT OUT!! IT WAS TOTALLY DARK. I KEEP HAVING TO HAVE IT REPAIRED BC THE MOISTURE KEEPS BUILDING UP OVER AND OVER. IT POSES A SAFETY RISK AND IS UNREASONABLE TO KEEP REPAIRING AT $1000 PER ENCASING AND $120 PER BULB. ITS BEEN REPAIRED TWICE IN 3 YEARS! *TR

I ALSO HAD TO HAVE MY TRANSMISSION TORE DOWN AND HAVE THE TORQUE CONVERTER REPLACED AND SOME OTHER THINGS IN THE TRANSMISSION FIXED. MY GEARS WOULD GET STUCK IN 2ND GEAR AND WOULDN'T CHANGE. I HAD TO STOP ON THE INTERSTATE AND ATTEMPT TO RESTART, BUT I COULDN'T GET IT OUT OF 2ND. SOMETIMES WHEN I WOULD SHIFT TO MANUAL IT WOULD NOT GO BACK INTO "D" DRIVE. MY HANDLES TO OPEN THE DOOR ALSO BROKE OFF. *TR

STARTED TO ACCELERATE AND THERE WAS A LOSS OF POWER FOR APPROXIMATELY 2 SECONDS AND THEN THE ENGINE SHUT DOWN. CAR WOULD NOT RESTART. I COULD NOT PULL OVER TO THE CURB AND HAD TO HAVE SOMEONE HELP ME GET THE CAR OUT OF THE MIDDLE OF THE ROADWAY. CAR STARTED AFTER SITTING FOR 15 MINUTES. THE CAR'S ENGINE FAULT LIGHT HAD BEEN ON. TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER FOR REPAIR. THEY REPORTED THAT THE PROBLEM WAS A ENGINE CONTROL MODULE WIRING HARNESS THAT HAD BEEN FRAYED BY THE DRIVE SHAFT RESULTING IN A NUMBER OF ENGINE FAULTS. *JS

THE FRONT SEAT HEATERS FAILED. PRIOR TO FAILURE I NOTED A MEDIUM-STRONG BURNING SMELL, BUT COULDN'T IDENTIFY THE SOURCE. WHEN I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER THEY REPORTED THAT THE CLIMATE CONTROL SEAT MODULE (CCSM) HAD MELTED DUE TO TOO MUCH CURRENT PASSING THROUGH IT. THEY QUOTED ME $1092.00 TO REPLACE THE PART, WHICH MIGHT OR MIGHT NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. *TR