2010 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY Complaints

VEHICLE STARTED HAVING ISSUES IN 2014. VEHICLE JUST WOULD NOT CRANK ONE MORNING. GOT A JUMP START AND TOOK IT TO AUTOZONE AND GOT A NEW BATTERY. ABOUT 3 MONTHS LATER THE SAME THING HAPPENED. GOT A JUMP START, WENT TO AUTOZONE AND THEY FOUND NOTHING WRONG WITH BATTERY, ALTERNATOR OR STARTER. AUTOZONE GAVE ME A NEW BATTERY ANYWAY. ABOUT 4 MONTHS LATER, HAPPENED AGAIN. BROUGHT VEHICLE TO CHRYSLER FOR WIN MODULE RECALL FIX AND EXPLAINED WHAT WAS HAPPENING. THEY SAID HANDLING THE RECALL AND A NEW BATTERY SHOULD FIX THE PROBLEM. ABOUT 2 MONTHS LATER, HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. CHRYSLER REPLACE WIN MODULE AGAIN AND I GOT CHRYSLER TO REPLACE BATTERY AT THIS TIME AS I EXPLAINED THAT THE BATTERY WAS BEING AFFECTED DUE TO THE PART THAT WAS BEING RECALLED. ALL WAS FINE FOR ABOUT A YEAR OR SO AND THEN STARTED HAPPENING AGAIN. BROUGHT IT BACK TO CHRYSLER AND THEY SAID BATTERY HAD A DEAD CELL. I EXPLAINED THAT THEY HAD JUST PUT THE BATTERY IN ABOUT A YEAR AGO AND IT SHOULD BE UNDER WARRANTY. THEY TOLD ME, "WE DON'T DO WARRANTY REPLACEMENTS ON WARRANTY REPLACEMENTS". SO, I AM JUST DEALING WITH THE BATTERY RIGHT NOW. MOST RECENTLY, ABOUT 3 MONTHS AGO, DASH BOARD WARNING LIGHTS STARTED ALL COMING IN AT THE SAME TIME. THEN THEY WOULD ALL GO OFF AND ONE SIDE OF THE DASH ILLUMINATION WOULD GO OUT. NEXT START UP, ILLUMINATION WOULD BE FINE AGAIN. THIS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES OVER A COUPLE OF MONTHS. THEN, ONE DAY WHILE DRIVING, THE POWER STEERING WENT OUT, THE TRACTION LIGHT CAME ON AND THE VEHICLE SHUT OFF! WAS ABLE TO PUT VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL AND RESTART. THIS HAPPENED A FEW TIMES IN A MONTH, BUT WAS ALWAYS OK AFTER ONE RESTART. NOW, IT KEEPS HAPPENING AND ONLY LASTS A FEW MINUTES BEFORE NEEDING TO BE RESTARTED AGAIN. AFRAID THAT THIS IS GOING TO HAPPEN WHILE TURNING ACROSS ONCOMING TRAFFIC OR IN A SITUATION WHERE WE CAN NOT PULL OVER TO SAFETY AND WILL GET REAR-ENDED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY. AFTER STARTING THE VEHICLE, THE SECURITY INDICATOR SENSOR BLINKED OFF AND ON, AND THE ESP, TRACTION STABILITY CONTROL, AND BAS SENSOR INDICATORS REMAINED ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER AND LOCAL DEALER WERE NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 77,898.

CAR HORN HONKS INTERMITTENTLY; BARELY TOUCH REMOTE AND HORN HONKS; WINDOWS ALSO ROLL DOWN WHEN KEY REMOTE IS TURNED UPSIDE DOWN OR IN LAYNG AGAINST SOMETHING OR IN YOUR HAND TRYING TO UNLOCK DOORS. ALSO, WHEN YOU TRY TO OPEN ANY OTHER DOORS IT WILL SOMETIMES JUST HONK AND LOCK WHILE NOT OPENING DOOR. FIRST THING THAT HAPPENED PRIOR TO THAT WAS THE DRIVER'S SIDE LOCK STOPPED UNLOCKING ALL THE DOORS. (WHEN I HAVE COME OUT FROM WORK OR CHURCH OR A GAME, MY WINDOWS HAVE BEEN DOWN. THE ONLY PLACE THE REMOTE WAS DURING THAT TIME WAS IN MY PURSE. PLEASE HELP ME RESOLVE THIS SITUATION. I REPLACED THE BATTERY TO NO AVAIL, AND I JUST ORDERED A NEW KEY REMOTE. THANK YOU!

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY. WHILE DRIVING 25 MPH WITHOUT WARNING, THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN UNKNOWN DEALER, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS INTERMITTENT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 14V373000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, AIR BAGS). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 163,000.

WIRELESS IGNITION NODE FAILURE CAUSED VEHICLE TO SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING ON 3 DIFFERENT OCCASIONS . SEE 14V-373 AKA CHRYSLER RECALL R03. LOSS OF POWER TO BRAKING AND STEERING SYSTEMS IS A CLEARLY DANGEROUS MALFUNCTION. OTHER SYMPTOMS EXHIBITED ARE FAILURE TO START IN PARK BUT WILL IN NEUTRAL AND FAILURE TO SHUT OFF ENGINE WITH KEY REMOVED. TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSIS POINTS TO DEFECTIVE WIN. THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT TURN OFF USING THE KEY, FAILED TO START, AND STALLS WHILE DRIVING. *JS

MY VEHICLE ALMOST DAILY WILL STALL OUT AND DIE WHILE IN MOTION ON ROADWAYS. THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT COMES ON, THE POWER STEERING FAILS AND THE CAR DIES. THIS HAS HAPPENED AT ANY SPEED AND OFTEN TIMES MULTIPLE TIMES A DAY. THE RADIO AND OTHER COMPONENTS WILL REMAIN ON BUT I HAVE TO TURN IT OFF AND PUMP IT TO GET IT TO RESTART. THE LAST COUPLE OF TIMES THERE WAS A FAINT SMELL OF WIRES BURNING. WE HAVE HAD IT IN TO THE DEALER 3 TIMES TO THIS POINT AND THE ANSWER IS ALWAYS THE SAME. "NO CODES COME UP WHEN WE CONNECT IT". LAST WEEK WE WERE TOLD TO BRING IT BACK WHEN IT DOESN'T RESTART FOR US. EVIDENTLY A CODE WILL COME UP AT THAT POINT. THERE WILL BE A TIME WHEN WE ARE DRIVING IN A PLACE WHERE ARE ONLY PLACE TO BAIL OUT IS IN THE GRASS OR POPPING A CURB TO AVOID GETTING HIT FROM BEHIND. THE MOVING TO NEUTRAL AND TRYING TO RESTART IS NOT WORKING FOR EITHER MY WIFE OR I. I HAVE SEEN HUNDREDS OF FORUMS THAT LIST THIS AS A CURRENT COMPLAINT WITH THIS YEAR RANGE OF TOWN AND COUNTRY'S. THIS IS CLEARLY THE MOST REPORTED T&C ISSSUE GOING ON NOW. WE NEED A SOLUTION BEFORE SOMEONE IS SERIOUSLY INJURED.

RANDOMLY LOSES POWER, SOMETIMES A SPLIT SECOND, OTHER TIMES A COMPLETE SHUT DOWN AND DOESN'T LET KEY GO. SOMETIMES IT CAUSES THINGS TO STOP WORKING, LIKE CRUISE CONTROL. MORE OFTEN WHEN LIGHTS ARE ON AND OTHER THINGS USED, LIKE A/C OR TURN SIGNALS. SOMETIMES WHEN ONLY LIGHTS ARE USED, AND SOMETIMES LIGHTS NOT EVEN ON.

VAN WAS PARKED AND BEING UNLOADED. LEFT SIDE DOOR BEGIN TO OPEN. IT OPENED ABOUT TWO THIRDS OF THE WAY, THEN REVERSED AND BEGIN TO CLOSE. A BOX WAS BEING UNLOADED FROM BEHIND THE FRONT SEAT. AS THE DOOR CLOSED IT CONTACTED MY WIVES ARMS AND CONTINUED TO CLOSE ON THE ARMS AND BOX. FORCE HAD TO BE USED TO GET ARMS AND BOX CLEAR OF DOOR. IN THE PROCESS OF FORCING THE ARMS CLEAR, THE DOOR BEGIN TO CLICK AND STUCK OPEN. THE SAFETY REVERSE DID NOT ENGAGE TO REVERSE THE DOOR OR WORK AT ALL. THE DOOR WAS JAMMED OPEN AND WOULD NOT OPEN OR CLOSE AT ALL. DROVE TO THE BODY SHOP TO HAVE THE PROBLEM INVESTIGATED AND FIXED. DISCOVERED THE PLASTIC COATING ON THE WIRE HAD PEELED OFF AND BEGAN TO BIND IN THE PULLEY MECHANISM. BOTH THE PULLEY HAD DAMAGE BETWEEN THE CABLE RACES AND THE WIRE HAD TORN COATING. THIS COMBINATION DAMAGE RENDERED THE SAFETY REVERSE TO NOT OPERATE AND COULD HAVE CAUSED SERIOUS INJURY TO AN INDIVIDUAL WHO WAS NOT STRONG ENOUGH TO OVERPOWER THE DOOR.

CAR STOPPED RUNNING WHILE DRIVING. VERY HARD TO TURN KEY TO RESTART. RUNS AND STOPS WITHOUT ADVANCE NOTICE WHEN DRIVING AS WELL AS SITTING STATIONARY.

ENGINE SHUTS OFF WHILE IN MOTION IN DRIVE MODE. THIS HAPPENS AT ANY RATE OF SPEED, 70 MPH TO 10 MPH, IN GOOD WEATHER CONDITIONS, ON THE HIGHWAY AND LOCAL STREETS, DRIVING STRAIGHT OR TURNING SLIGHTLY. THE ABS MODULE TESTED BAD 9 MONTHS AGO AND WAS REPLACED BY AUTO ELECTRIC SPECIALISTS OF HOUSTON. THIS DID NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. I HAVE NOT HAD THE ECM REPLACED. MY CHRYSLER DEALERSHIP CANNOT FIND THE PROBLEM AND HAS TOLD ME TO KEEP DRIVING AND TO BRING THE CAR IN RIGHT AWAY IF THE ISSUE HAPPENS AGAIN. THE CAR SCARES ME!!! IT HAS SHUT OFF THREE TIMES NOW IN THE LAST YEAR. I WONDER IF THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM THAT HAS NOW BEEN REPORTED WITH THE 2017 CHRYSLER PACIFICA?