2007 DODGE CALIBER Complaints

AT 47,000 MILES HAD A 800.00 REPAIR TO THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BOTH SIDES. ALSO REPLACED THE OUTER TIE RODS AND NEW TIRES, FRONT END ALIGNMENT. JUST UNDER 2 YEARS SINCE THIS WAS DONE ANOTHER UNSUSPECTING INCIDENT WITH THE SUSPENSION, WHEELS SHIMMING AT 40MPH. CALLED CHRYSLER, AND THEY STATED NO RECALL ON MY VEHICLE, HOWEVER THE MECHANIC THAT CHECKED THE TIRES SAID HIS WIFE HAD HER VEHICLE RECALLED FOR SIMILAR BREAKDOWNS. MY POINT ALL OF THIS STARTED AT 47,000 MILES. IF MY TIRE RODS BREAK OR SOME OTHER INCIDENT WITH THE SUSPENSION I COULD HAVE A MAJOR OR FATAL ACCIDENT IF I LOSE CONTROL ON THE FREEWAY. -SUSPENSION ON THESE VEHICLES IS VERY UNSAFE AS IS THE CHRYSLER NEON. NEED VERIFICATION ALSO IF THERE WAS A SILENT RECALL ON THIS, MEANING THEY ONLY PAID WHEN ASKED. THEY ADMITTED THE PROBLEM ON THE FIRST INCIDENT AND PAID 400.00 AS A GOOD WILL GESTURE. THE VEHICLE'S SUSPENSION IS JUST PLAIN SLOPPY ANY WAY YOU LOOK AT IT. *TR

I WAS DRIVING AND MY PASSENGER LOW-BEAM HEADLIGHT WENT OUT, SO I WENT AND BOUGHT A NEW HEADLIGHT, UPON INSTALLING IT, IT STILL DIDN'T WORK, BUT THE HIGH BEAM DID. TOOK IT TO DODGE TO SEE IF THEY COULD FIGURE IT OUT AND WAS TOLD IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE WITH CALIBERS AND CERTAIN JEEPS, THE TIPM WENT BAD ON IT AND IT WOULD BE ALMOST $1000 TO REPAIR IT, FOR A KNOWN ISSUE THAT DODGE KNOWS ABOUT BUT HASN'T BEEN RECALLED! 2 WEEKS LATER, MY HIGHBEAM EVEN WENT OUT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE, SO NOW THE CAR IS SITTING PARKED, UNABLE TO DRIVE WITH IMPROPER LIGHTING & TIPM PROBLEMS! *TR

UPON DRIVING A LOUD METAL TO METAL CLUNK BEGAN. OWNER LOOKED UNDER VEHICLE, BUT WAS UNABLE TO SEE ANY PROBLEM. NOISE WAS SO DISTINCT THAT VEHICLE WAS CAREFULLY DRIVEN TO OUR INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. HE STARTED TO GO OUT ON A ROAD TEST TO TRY TO LOCATE THE PROBLEM AND IMMEDIATELY RETURNED TO HIS GARAGE. HE FOUND ONE SWAY BAR LINK WAS UNATTACHED AT LOWER END. HE THEN USED A MIRROR TO VIEW THE TOP SIDE OF THE SUB FRAME AND FOUND IT WAS ROTTED OUT. UPON REMOVAL OF THE SUBFRAME A FIST SIZED HOLE WAS FOUND IN THE TOP OF THE SUBFRAME AND THERE WERE ALSO CRACKS RADIATING BACK THROUGH MORE OF THE FRAME. LOOKING AT THE REMOVED ITEM, IT WAS OBVIOUS THAT THE DEGRADATION WAS SO SEVERE THAT HITTING A BAD ENOUGH BUMP OR HOLE COULD VERY POSSIBLY CAUSE LOSS OF INTEGRITY IN THE SUSPENSION, STEERING OR ENGINE MOUNTING. ALL IN ALL, THIS SITUATION LOOKED EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS. AND CONSIDERING THAT A VISUAL INSPECTION FROM UNDERNEATH, AS DURING AN OIL CHANGE, ONE OF WHICH HAD BEEN PERFORMED RECENTLY, DID NOT SHOW THE DAMAGE, I WOULD SAY THIS IS A VERY BAD SITUATION. IN RESEARCHING THIS CONDITION ONLINE, IT SOUNDS POSSIBLE THAT THE AIR CONDITION DRIPPING COULD BE A CONTRIBUTING FACTOR. THERE WERE A NUMBER OF CASES TO BE SEEN. I FEEL THAT WE ARE VERY LUCKY THERE WAS NO MAJOR INCIDENT DUE TO THIS CONDITION. THIS VEHICLE, WHILE A 2007 HAS AN IN SERVICE DATE OF FEBRUARY 2008. I HOPE YOU WILL FIND THIS SITUATION SERIOUS ENOUGH TO REVIEW, AND I HAVE TAKEN A SERIES OF PICTURES WHICH WILL HELP TO DOCUMENT THE PROBLEM. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME IN REVIEWING THIS FOR US. *TR

VEHICLE ROLLED TO A STOP ALONG THE ROAD. WAS UNABLE TO RESTART. I REMOVED THE REAR SEAT TO INSPECT THE FUEL PUMP AND CONNECTIONS. BOTH THE TOP OF THE PLASTIC FUEL PUMP AND IT'S PLASTIC CONNECTION WAS MELTED FROM AN ELECTRICAL MELT DOWN, JUST MILLIMETERS FROM THE FULL GAS TANK. THIS COULD'VE RESULT IN AN EXPLOSION AND FATALITY. APPARENTLY FROM WHAT I'VE BEEN READING ONLINE THIS IS QUITE COMMON WITH THIS MODEL. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE BEFORE THERE IS A FATALITY. *TR

CAR WILL RANDOMLY START SHAKING LIKE THERE IS BARELY ANY POWER. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR TWICE. NUMEROUS THROTTLE ISSUES THAT NUMEROUS AUTO SERVICE SHOPS WERE NOT ABLE TO FULLY TAKE CARE OF. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS AT A STOP AND THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED, LIGHTLY AND NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE INAPPROPRIATELY AND KIND OF JERK FORWARD. IN ADDITION, WHEN TURNING AND THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD SEEM TO LOSE POWER AND SEEM TO GLIDE INTO THE TURN AND THEN JERK FORWARD. THESE THROTTLE ISSUES WERE NEVER FULLY EXPLAINED OR FIXED. AFTER A WHILE THE CAR DASH STARTED FLASHING A RED ELECTRICAL BOLT AND THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND SHAKE AND LOSE ALL POWER. INITIALLY, WHEN THIS OCCURRED I WAS ABLE TO JUST TURN THE CAR OFF AND WAIT AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WOULD FUNCTION FOR A WHILE. ALSO, IF THE CAR WAS IDLING AT A STOPLIGHT OR PARKED THE ELECTRICAL BOLT WOULD FLASH AND THE CAR WOULD START TO SHAKE. NOW THE AIR BAG LIGHT IN THE CLUSTER CONSTANTLY TURNS OFF AND ON AND BEEPS WHILE THE CAR IS SHAKING. *TR

NOTICED RUSTED SUBFRAME WITH BIG HOLE. WE KNEW IT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. NO PARTICULAR REASON FOR THE EROSION OTHER THAN THE WAY THE VEHICLE IS DESIGNED. VEHICLE IS ONLY 6-7 YEARS OLD. THIS TYPE OF EROSION IS USUALLY ONLY SEEN ON OLD VINTAGE VEHICLES. A FEW DAYS AGO, WE RAN OVER A HIDDEN POT HOLE AND THE SUBFRAME IS COMPLETELY BROKEN APART. NOW CAR IS COMPLETELY UNSAFE TO DRIVE. THIS CAR WAS POORLY DESIGNED IN THIS AREA. THE COMPANY SHOULD RECALL THE SUBFRAME TO REPLACE AND INSTALL A REROUTING PIECE FOR THE AC TO DRIP ON AND BYPASS DRIPPING ON THE FRAME. *TR

WENT TO GET CAR INSPECTED AND THE MECHANIC FOUND OUR CROSSMEMBER FRAME WAS RUSTED OUT. IT IS ONLY 5 YRS OLD AND HAS 63000 MILES, UNHEARD OF. NEXT STEP CONTACT DODGE SEE WHAT THEY CAN DO TO HELP US GET THIS REPAIRED, RIGHT NOW CAR IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. *TR

I TOOK MY CAR TO GET MY ALIGNMENT DONE. WHILE ON THE RACK THE MECHANIC BROUGHT ME IN TO SHOW ME THE MASSIVE HOLE IN MY SUBFRAME. THE CAR IS A 2007 WITH ONLY 97,000 MILES ON IT. *TR

THE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT AND BOTH BULBS ARE KNOWN GOOD. ITS THE TIPM TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE THAT'S THE CULPRIT AND IT COSTS $900.00 TO REPLACE. I'M DEMANDING A TOTAL RECALL ON ALL DODGE CALIBERS. *TR

THE VEHICLE HAD NUMEROUS THROTTLE ISSUES AND AIR CONDITIONING ISSUES THAT NUMEROUS AUTO SERVICE SHOPS WERE NOT ABLE TO FULLY TAKE CARE OF. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS AT A STOP AND THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED, LIGHTLY AND NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE INAPPROPRIATELY AND KIND OF JERK FORWARD. IN ADDITION, WHEN TURNING AND THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD SEEM TO LOSE POWER AND SEEM TO GLIDE INTO THE TURN AND THEN JERK FORWARD. THESE THROTTLE ISSUES WERE NEVER FULLY EXPLAINED OR FIXED. AFTER A WHILE THE CAR DASH STARTED FLASHING A RED ELECTRICAL BOLT AND THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND SHAKE AND LOSE ALL POWER. INITIALLY, WHEN THIS OCCURRED I WAS ABLE TO JUST TURN THE CAR OFF AND WAIT AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WOULD FUNCTION FOR A WHILE. ALSO, IF THE CAR WAS IDLING AT A STOPLIGHT OR PARKED THE ELECTRICAL BOLT WOULD FLASH AND THE CAR WOULD START TO SHAKE. AFTER SOME TIME THE VEHICLE'S LEFT LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. WHEN REPLACED IT STILL DID NOT WORK. THE VEHICLE'S ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHECKED AND FOUND TO BE FUNCTIONAL. WITHIN A WEEK AFTER THIS OCCURRENCE THE VEHICLE COULD NOT BE STARTED WITHOUT A "JUMP" AND EVEN SO WOULD LOSE POWER ONCE PARKED AND COULD NOT BE STARTED AGAIN. I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE AUTO MECHANIC, SPECIFICALLY AN AUTO ELECTRICIAN, AND WAS TOLD IT WAS THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $700 PLUS LABOR. IN RESPONSE TO THIS I RESEARCHED THE PART AND CAME ACROSS NUMEROUS PEOPLE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM AND THE SAME EVENTUAL DIAGNOSIS. THE CAR HAS BEEN ESSENTIALLY UNDRIVABLE AND UNSAFE. THERE WAS THE CONSTANT WORRY THAT THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WOULD HAPPEN WHILE ON THE EXPRESSWAY AND CAUSE VERY UNSAFE CONDITIONS FOR MYSELF AND OTHERS ON THE ROAD. IT IS MY OPINION A RECALL NEEDS TO BE ISSUED FOR THIS PROBLEM. *TR