2005 MAZDA MAZDA3 Complaints

I WAS DRIVING HOME ON RESIDENTIAL STREETS WHEN THICK SMOKE STARTED BILLOWING OUT OF MY AIR CONDITIONING VENTS AND THE FRONT PASSENGER WHEEL WELL. SINCE IT IS OUT OF WARRANTY AND I DIDN'T WANT TO RISK DRIVING IT TO THE NEAREST MAZDA DEALER IS 6.5 MILES AWAY, I TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC WITHIN WALKING DISTANCE. HE DIAGNOSED THAT THE AIR COMPRESSOR SEIZED AND BEGAN MELTING TWO DRIVE BELTS. HE HAD TO REPLACE THE COMPRESSOR, 2 BELTS, REFRIGERANT, FUSE AND DRYER S (?) FOR A TOTAL ABOUT $850. NOW I AM READING OTHERS' COMPLAINTS AND SEE THAT SOMEONE WAS REIMBURSED BY MAZDA FOR THIS, AND THAT THERE ARE NUMEROUS OTHER MAZDA 3 OWNERS WHO HAVE EXPERIENCED THE SAME THING. I'M VERY CONCERNED ABOUT WHAT MAY HAVE HAPPENED IF I'D BEEN ON THE HIGHWAY. ALSO, THE SMOKE SMELLED QUITE ACRID; WAS LIKELY BREATHING IN TOXIC SUBSTANCES. IT SEEMS LIKE MAZDA SHOULD BE RECALLING THIS. I AM CONTACTING THEM TO REQUEST THAT THEY REIMBURSE MY COSTS, EVEN THOUGH I WAS UNABLE TO HAVE IT REPAIRED AT A DEALER. *TR

PLAGUE WITH FUEL SYSTEM PROBLEM. 1ST TIME CHECK ENGINE CAME ON, WHEN CAR REACHED 44,000 MILES. I TOOK IT TO DEALER, THEY RAN A DIAGNOSTIC, AND REPLACED THE O2 SENSOR. WARRANTY COVERED. 2ND TIME CHECK ENGINE CAME ON AT 51,000 MILES. DEALER REPLACED 2 OF THE FUEL INJECTORS. WHEN CAR REACH 85,000 MILES, ENGINE STARTED SPUTTERING WHEN I PRESSED GAS PEDAL, ENGINE JUST DIES ON THE STREET. THIS TIME DEALER SAID FUEL PUMP MIGHT BE BAD. SO WE GOT IT REPLACED FOR $800. WHEN CAR REACH 100,000 MILES I HAD FUEL LINE CLEANED FROM FUEL TANK TO THE FUEL INJECTORS, AND REPLACED SPARK PLUGS. AT 105,000 MILES CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN. I TOOK CAR TO AUTOZONE PARTS AND HAD IT READ. THE CODE SAYS, P2004 (VARIABLE TUMBLE SHUTTER VALVE STUCK OPEN). THE NEXT DAY I WAS GOING TAKE IT TO A LOCAL AUTO REPAIR SHOP AND HAVE IT LOOKED AT, BUT ON MY WAY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WASN'T LIT ANYMORE, SO I DROVE STRAIGHT TO WORK. 3 DAYS AFTER, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN, SO I JUST IGNORED IT. AND 2 DAYS LATER, IT DISAPPEARED. ALL THESE TIME, SINCE I BOUGHT MY CAR I NEVER MISSED A REGULAR MAINTENANCE, I.E., OIL CHANGE, AIR FILTER CHANGE, FLUSHED FLUIDS. THE CAR HAS GONE THROUGH TIRE REPLACEMENT, NEW BRAKES PADS, NEW BATTERY. RIGHT NOW, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS NOT LIT.

I HAVE REPLACED THE HEADLIGHTS ON MY MAZDA 3 2005 EACH YEAR SINCE I'VE OWNED THE CAR; EACH SIDE I'VE REPLACED 3 TIMES. I HAVE HAD THEM ALL INSTALLED BY THE DEALERSHIP, SO THAT I KNOW THE REPAIR IS BEING DONE CORRECTLY. NO ONE CAN TELL ME WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE HEADLIGHTS, HOWEVER I'VE DONE SOME RESEARCH ON THE INTERNET AND FOUND THAT MANY OTHER OWNERS ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEMS. I'M SURPRISED THAT NO RECALL HAS NOT BEEN ISSUED DUE TO THE NATURE OF THE PROBLEM. I PERSONALLY DO NOT WANT MY HEADLIGHTS GOING OUT WHILE I'M DRIVING AT NIGHT, WHICH HAS HAPPENED TWICE. *TR

TEETH OF WINDSHIELD WIPER ARM CONNECTION ARE STRIPPED OUT BY THE WIPER MOTORS. THIS JUST HAPPENED FOR A THIRD TIME ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. OCCURS WHEN THERE IS SNOW/ICE ON THE WINDSHIELD AND THE TEETH/GEAR IN THE WIPER ARM AREN'T STRONG ENOUGH TO LIFT THE WEIGHT. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 MAZDA, MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS, THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD LOSE POWER STEERING INTERMITTENTLY. THE FAILURE WAS SIMILAR TO RECALL 10V374000 (STEERING: ELECTRIC POWER ASSIST SYSTEM). THE MANUFACTURER INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE VEHICLE USED A DIFFERENT POWER STEERING PUMP THAN THE MODELS INCLUDED IN THE RECALL AND WAS NOT DEFECTIVE. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 57,000 AND THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30,000.

I DEVELOPED A TICK IN THE ENGINE, TOOK TO DEALER WHO DIAGNOSED " THE SHUTTER VALVE INSIDE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD WAS COMING APART". TOOK IT TO ANOTHER INDEPENDENT MAZDA REPAIR SHOP AND WAS TOLD "THE VALVE IS ACTUALLY JUST STUCK OPEN". BOTH SHOPS QUOTED A $1500 REPAIR BILL. THIS SHOULD NOT HAPPEN TO A CAR THAT IS ONLY 5 1/2 YEARS OLD. YOU CAN'T JUST REPLACE THE PLASTIC SHUTTER VALVE, YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE INTAKE MANIFOLD (THAT PART COSTS $1000). SINCE I ONLY PAID $14,000 TOTAL FOR THE WHOLE CAR, I AM VERY UPSET WITH (MY 1ST AND LAST) MAZDA. I WILL REPAIR AND SELL ASAP. *TR

AIR BAG LIGHT ON, I SEE THERE IS A RECALL FOR THIS PROBLEM FOR MY 2005 MAZDA3, BUT MAZDA SAYS THAT MY VIN NUMBER IS NOT PART OF THE RECALL EVENTHOUGH THE YEAR AND MODEL MATCH THE RECALL. *TR

HI, I HAVE TWO ISSUES DUE TO: ELECTRICAL PROBLEM: AIRBAG WARNING LIGHT MAY COME ON DUE TO DAMAGED PRETENSIONER SENSOR WIRING BREAKAGE FROM ADJUSTING THE SEAT. (2005) . THIS WAS ON SATURDAY OCTOBER 30, 2010 THE AIRBAG MAY NOT DEPLOY WHEN THE VEHICLE IS INVOLVED IN A CRASH. CHECK-ENGINE LIGHT: THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATE, ISSUES DUE TO A VALVE IN THE INTAKE SYSTEM JAMMING. THE DEALER MAZDA IN PONCE, PUERTO RICO, CHECK THIS ISSUES, THIS IS THE PART # LF82-18-740 VALVE,SOLE & LF70-15-170 THEY SAID TO REPAIR THOSE PARTS. MY CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY. THANK YOU.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 MAZDA 3. WHILE THE CONTACT CHANGED LANES AT 35 MPH THE POWER STEERING LOCKED TWICE. SHE WAS ABLE TO APPLY PRESSURE TO THE STEERING WHEEL IN ORDER TO KEEP THE VEHICLE IN THE LANE. THE POWER STEERING LIGHT ILLUMINATED WHILE THE FAILURE OCCURRED AND WITHIN A FEW MINUTES, THE POWER STEERING LIGHT INDICATOR SHUT OFF AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO FUNCTION NORMALLY. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE VIN WASN'T INCLUDED IN THE POWER STEERING RECALL; THEREFORE, SHE WOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE REPAIR COST. THE MANUFACTURER WILL BE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 53,192.

I HAVE HAD MY VEHICLE FOR 5 YEARS. IN THE PAST MONTH, MY DRIVERS SEATBELT HAS BEGUN TO FAIL. THIS IS A PYROTECHNIC SEATBELT, AND HAS A SENSOR FOR THE AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT. THE SEATBELT DOES NOT COMPLETELY LOCK, AND CAN BE REMOVED BY HAND. I WAS INFORMED THAT UPON A CRASH, IF THE SEATBELT WERE NOT COMPLETELY LATCHED, THE AIRBAG WOULD IN FACT NOT DEPLOY. THIS HAS OCCURRED 4-5 TIMES SINCE THE ORIGINAL OCCURRENCE. ALSO, WHEN THE SEATBELT FAILS TO LATCH YOU CAN NOT JUST PUSH THE BUTTON TO RELEASE THE BELT. YOU MUST TUG HARDLY TO GET THE BELT TO RELEASE. MAZDA IS NOT WILLING TO WARRANTY THIS PART, AND THE NEW PART COST ALMOST $300 TO REPAIR. *TR