2013 DODGE CHALLENGER Complaints

I am reporting a defect condition in a 2013 Dodge Challenger that appears materially identical to the condition described in FCA Emissions Recall UB4 involving the evaporative emissions canister system. See: [XXX] . The vehicle experiences severe difficulty during refueling. Fuel pump nozzles repeatedly and continuously auto-shutoff during normal fueling attempts, preventing normal refueling operation. An independent mechanic diagnosed the issue as related to the evaporative emissions canister / EVAP system. After disconnecting the affected component/system, the vehicle immediately resumed normal fueling operation without repeated pump shutoff. The symptoms and apparent defect mechanism appear materially consistent with those described in Recall UB4 and NHTSA bulletin MC-10174189-9999; however, this VIN is currently excluded from the recall population. I am submitting this complaint because the defect appears to exist outside the currently identified VIN population. The manufacturer (Dodge) is refusing to investigate further, citing there is no recall coverage and NHTSA is responsible. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Driver & passenger door windows on many 2010-2017 Dodge Challengers activate repeatedly on their own during driving and after ignition is turned off causing the battery to completely drain overnight & sometimes after only one or two hours after the ignition is turned off. There was a TSB#23-039-11. This TSB does not apply to my 2013 Challenger. Parts are extremely expensive and the car leaves me stranded if parked only a couple of hours. During driving the cycling down and up causes danger as it appears the door wants to open on its own and making us have to pull over several times until we figured out it was doing it on its own as if it was haunted. No warning lights on my 2013 Challenger. Mechanics checked it after having 2 brand new batteries drain overnight. Batteries are approximately $200.00. Dealer will only say the door latch mechanism needs replacing at approximately $480.00. Parts cost approx. $190.00.

On Saturday 1:20am 11/15/25 DRIVING 27 MILES FROM DISTANCE VEHICLE STARTED TO MALFUNCTION ELECTRICALLY WITH INTERNAL LIGHTS QUICKLY POWER OUTAGES ON AND OFF INTERIOR LIGHTIN. dim headlights, or issues with electrical components. 11/15/25 A vehicle fire occurred, and preliminary investigations suggest a battery malfunction as the probable cause. The malfunction led to an uncontrolled thermal event within the battery system, rapidly escalating into a fire that engulfed the vehicle. Further analysis is underway to determine the specific nature of the battery failure and contributing factors.NO WARNING ADVISORY ON THE PRELIMINARY OCCURRENCE IT ESCALATED FROM FLASHING ON AND OFF LIGHTS AND STEREO TO A STIFF STEERING WHEEL AND VEHICLE COMPLETE SHUTDOWN AND RAPIDLY SMOKE COMING FROM THE INTERIOR OF THE TRUNK AND FIRE STARTED CONSUMING THE REAR END OF THE TRUNK AND VEHICLE. THIS WAS A VERY DEVASTATING AND OVERWHELMING TRAGEDY IT HAPPENED WITHIN 15 MINUTES TIMEFRAME AND FIREDEPARTMENT ARRIVED WITHIN FIVE MINUTES INTO THE CONCERNING FIRE IT ALSO TOOK AROUND AROUND A HOUR FOR THE FIREMAN TO PUT OUT THE FIRE FROM THE TRUNK OF THE VEHICLE.

* The ignition switch failed to release the key fob. I brought the car home after completing some repairs and sending the car through emissions testing to renew the plates. I made numerous attempts turning the car on and off and trying to get the key fob out of the ignition. The ignition off position would flash ACCESSORIES the same as the accessory position. I was concerned to leave the car as there maybe a short that would draw down the battery or worse ? I locked the doors and left the key fob in the ignition. * YES- available for inspection. * safety issue was is there an electrical issue that would start the car on fire ? * The diagnosis was done by my performance and high end mechanic's shop. The battery in the key bob was changed while being stuck in the ignition to see if a low powered battery was failing to send a signal. No changes. The shop did inform me later in the day that they forced the fob to the left and was able to extract it from the ignition switch. * YES, inspected and review by my trusted mechanics shop. * No signs prior to the attempted removal of the key bof at the finish of returning to my home.

At only 68,000 miles, my check engine light came on with code "P0456", which indicates that my Evaporative Emission System has a leak. These leaks lead to increased emissions and fuel loss. The solution is to replace the Emission System Integrity Monitor (ESIM). The life expectancy of this part is 150,000 miles. It should not leak at less than half its life expectancy. I contacted the local dealership and they reported that there isn't a recall on this part yet.

When I start the car, it shuts off if I pushed the button to restart it, sounds like it’s double starting itself the only way that I can make it stop is by continuously hitting the button. The only way that I can restart. The car is if I open the driver‘s door, then hit the button to completely cut off the car shut the door hit the button again then the car will start. It’s like I have to reset it. it does it often has been for years when I take it to the mechanics or dealership they tell me to bring it up there when it’s doing it. That’s the only way that they can find out what the issue is, after this happens I’ll take it to the dealership and they find nothing they request for me to bring it when is doing that, but I never know when it’s going to happen until it does, but it doesn’t happen at the dealership. I have Google this issue other challengers are having this issue but again it can never be resolved because it doesn’t happen when you take it to the dealership I believe eventually this will mess up the engine or starter below is asking for a date this incident occurred it started in 2015 when I purchased the car this will happen here or there not that often but it is continuously a problem, over the years and getting worse

The vehicle is available for inspection. The issue caused a fire under my carport and within 30 feet of a neighbor's house. The car is immobile and still at the location of the incident, it has not been reproduced or inspected. there were no warning lamps at the time of the incident. The electrical system seemed to have several issues over the past years. The passenger side tail light would burn out at least twice a year. The driver's side window would go up and down when the car was off and ran out of battery. The vehicle would allow the key fob to be locked in the car. I took it to the dealer but they were unable to determine the cause. Most recently what a mechanic thought was the starter failed twice in less than six months. Last month, I went to start the car, and it started and then turned off. I heard a pop and crackling sound, and the trunk battery was on fire.

while turning onto another street transmisson went into neutral. car would`nt accelerate, almost reared by another car. Car is at dealership now, they say it needs new transmission. only has 70,000 miles on it.

Taillights aren’t staying on. The break and signal lights work however, after driving the vehicle for a few minutes the taillights go out. I can turn the switch from auto to on but after about 5 minutes each time they are going off

Car has had intermittent electrical issues, head lights flashing, dash board losing power, car alarms in and out. Most recently it stalled while driving on a country road. Was able to restart after a while. It stalled again while driving on highway. Took car to dealership but they stated my alternater was not a part of safety recall T36, even though I was having those exact same issues.