2023 HYUNDAI IONIQ 5 Complaints

When driving down the road, road debris and water blind the back windshield. There is no wiper and the design does not clear off the back windshield, causing you not to be able to see out the back windshield. This is causing a safety issue with the vehicle, and I almost had an accident because of it. Additionally, the side mirrors will not clear off water, causing them not to be able to use during rain storms. This vehicle is not safe as is. Hyundai has stated it is a design defect and they won’t do anything about it, per the corp office and the dealership, Jenkins Hyundai in Ocala, Fl

When driving in I Pedal mode (which is the one-pedal mode), the brake lights do not light up when decelerating, and it almost caused us to be rear-ended yesterday. Drivers pull aside me and tell me my brake lights don't properly come on when I slow down. Apparently this defect was on the national news several months ago and Hyundai promised a software fix by mid-July. I was just at the Carlsbad, CA Hyundai Service Center this morning and was told they do not have a software fix for this issue. This car should officially be recalled by Hyundai and the NHTSA and owners should be warned officially they are driving a dangerous, defective car.

After owning and driving the 2023 Ioniq 5 for about 4 months, the car was driven from Massachusetts to Arizona. After driving across the county at 75 mph about 50 min on cruse control the car began to lurch, the speed would drop about 3 mph below the cruse control set point, then accelerate to a mile faster than the set point and then settle down to the set point. This would happen multiple times during the next 100 miles before stopping to charge. After charging and again on cruse control at 75 mph or so, the lurching would begin again. After the lurching started, the power display indicated the front motor on this dual motor vehicle was doing all the work to drive the car, and the rear motor was no longer functioning. Later it was confirmed that the rear EOP (electric oil pump) which cools the rear motor was not functioning at all. As a result the rear motor would increase to more than 170 degrees F and stop operating. No DTC was stored for the EOP Actual Speed of zero (despite an EOP Command Speed for 800-3000 rpms). No DTC was stored for the MCU Motor Temperature overheat. No DTC was stored for the MCU Motor Actual Torque of zero when it was commanded for something more. Fortunately the Hyundai Ioniq 5 did command the front motor to take over even though the rear motor was no longer functional, so the car was able to maintain speed most of the time. However, the car is normally 325 hp with both motors. Accelerating with only the 95hp front motor on a heavy car was very slow, both in traffic and on the highway. The lack of performance could easily surprise an unsuspecting driver resulting in a collision or worse. I know of at least 5 owners who have experienced this issue. In each case Hyundai has been slow at best and refused to repair at worst. The issue is without DTC but can none the less be easily diagnosed by observing the ODB EOP Actual Speed (when the car is driven) will be zero with an EOP Command Speed >0 .

My car fails to charge using Level 2 40 amp charger. The car is supposed to be able to maintain charging between 40 and 48 amps. It is clear that the car is overheating during Level 2 charging and suspending charging. This can be dangerous especially if the car is advertised to be able to charge normally using Level 2 chargers. Note that the summer has been hot. Even in my garage at night, I can no longer charge at 40 amps. I have to lower my Autel charger's current down from 40 amps to 32 amps, and that seems to work. Outdoors during the day, I have to change the car's current to 60%, just so it can continue to charge without overheating. My car is less than 6 months old.

Charge port is overheating and stopping charging. Widespread issue after the cars age. Their only fix is a software update that drastically throttles current to the car. Rendering very long charging times compared to what was advertised. Something is deteriorating in the electrical system since the cars charge fine when new. Overheated electrical components is very concerning. I hope NHTSA makes Hyundai remedy this issue!

This car has detailed complaints online for the absence of a rear wiper causing zero visibility during afternoon rain and thunderstorms. In the event of a white out situation, the driver assistance systems fail to work due to hazardous conditions. You also cannot see out of the rear window or side mirrors because of a design defect. The car has been reported to Jenkins Hyundai of Ocala, where the service department is aware and informed me that Hyundai is aware of the safety concerns, but cannot fix the situation or will not offer a fix to the serious safety concern. The service department gave me the phone number to report this as a lemon to Hyundai Customer care where I was informed twice a manager named [XXX] has my case and would contact me, which she has not done. The case number given is [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

I drove on the freeway around 70 miles/H last July 14th, 2023 with my wife. But suddenly the speed dropped down after I dropped my car at NORM REEVES Hyundai dealer. They keep 4 days for the test. They said all test is OK. But I am afraid to drive on the freeway. I Leased Jun 17th, 2023 new IONIQ5. Is this OK? What should I do?

I have a 2023 Ioniq 5 that was purchased in June, 2023 and an 2023 Ioniq 6 that was purchased in April, 2023. I had a new Chargepoint Home Flex charger installed in April when I purchased my Ioniq 6 and set the charging current to 40 amps. The charger was hardwired directly to my service panel with the appropriate 6 gauge wire and 60 amp breaker. My Ioniq 6 reliably charged at 40 amps until early July when it started dropping the charge rate to 23 amps about 40 minutes into my charging session when using the level 2 charger at home. My Ioniq 5 only charged at 40 amps for the first week of ownership before starting to drop the charge rate to 23 amps. When this behavior started I plugged an OBD2 scanner in and was able to monitor the AC Charging Inlet temperature and noticed that the charge drop happened when the temperature reached 240F. This causes an issue when planning my charge times because they can essentially double, meaning that my vehicles are not ready for a trip by the estimated time. I am also concerned that having electronics that overheat on an EV may be a potential fire hazard in the future. One of the key reasons for purchasing these vehicles was the advertised charge times. I have appointments with the dealership to have both vehicles examined.

Charging port overheats while charging causing it to stop charging. Charging port is hot to the touch. Seems like a fire hazard. This issue has gotten worse over the last few weeks.

Charging port overheats when attempting to charge at any speed above 6kw/hr. Charger is supposed to be rated for 48amps but overheats within minutes charging at 40 amps. Have had a TSB installed by the dealer but issue remains