MAZDA Complaints

EXTREME PAINT CHIPPING (DOWN TO THE PRIMER/METAL) ON THE HOOD PRIMARILY. COLOR IS SOUL RED. THE PAINT APPEARS TO BE BRITTLE AND NOT PROPERLY BONDED TO THE PRIMER/METAL. CHIPPING STARTED OCCURRING THE FIRST MONTH AFTER PURCHASE AND HAS CONTINUED TO GAIN MORE CHIPS. THE CAR IS DRIVEN MOSTLY FOR CITY COMMUTING. THIS CAR HAS THE MOST FRAGILE PAINT I HAVE EVER EXPERIENCED. I HAVE PURCHASED A NEW NISSAN, HONDA AND SUBARU IN THE PAST AND NONE HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM. I HAVE SEEN MANY PEOPLE COMPLAINING ABOUT THIS ISSUE WITH MAZDA ONLINE, IT NEEDS TO BE INVESTIGATED FOR A POSSIBLE CLASS ACTION LAW SUIT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THE DASHBOARD MELTED, CAUSING A GLARE WHILE DRIVING IN SUN LIGHT, WHICH MADE IT DIFFICULT TO SEE WHILE DRIVING. THE DEALER WAS NOT CALLED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF FAILURE AND STATED THAT IT WAS A KNOWN ISSUE FOR WHICH THE WARRANTY WAS EXTENDED HOWEVER, THE WARRANTY ON THE VEHICLE HAD EXPIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 130,000.

I WAS DRIVING HOME WITH THE FAMILY AFTER VIEWING SOME HOUSE. EVERY TIME I WOULD STEP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL I WOULD HEAR A HISSING FROM THE BRAKE. BEEN HAPPENING FOR ABOUT A MONTH NOW BUT, WITH THE PANDEMIC GOING ON I JUST DON'T HAVE TIME TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. WHEN I PRESS ON THE BRAKE IT WOULD STOP LIKE NORMAL WITH AIR HISSING. THE NEXT DAY THE BRAKE PEDAL WOULD FEEL VERY HARD TO PRESS DOWN. LIKE AS IF YOU BEEN PUMPING YOUR BRAKE WHEN THE CAR OFF AND WHEN YOU TURN YOUR CAR ON THE PRESSURE WOULD BE RELEASED. NOT TODAY, IT STAYED HARD AND HARD TO STOP. I HAD TO PRESS THE BRAKE VERY HARD AS IF PRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE FLOOR TO MAKE THE CAR STOP. JUST STOPPING AT A RED LIGHT, STOP SIGN, OFF THE HIGHWAY, AND TRAFFIC WAS A CHALLENGE. I'LL EVENTUALLY STOP BUT IN THE MIDDLE OF A INTERSECTION OR IN THE BACK OF A CAR. IF I HAD TO BRAKE BECAUSE SOMEONE TURNED IN FRONT OF ME, I WOULD OF JUST HIT THEM FULL SPEED BECAUSE MY BRAKE BOOSTER FAILURE TO PRODUCE ENOUGH PRESSURE TO ENGAGE MY BRAKES TO STOP. THE DAY THE BRAKE BOOSTER HAPPEN TO FAILURE COMPLETELY IS WHEN WE HAD A FAMILY TRIP DOWN TO THE WISCONSIN DELLS OVER THE JULY 4TH WEEKEND. SINCE BRAKE BOOSTER WASN'T A RECALL BUT AN EXTENDED WARRANTY AND ENDED MARCH 2015 OR 90,000 MILES. MAZADA WOULD CHARGE ME FULL PRICE TO GET IT FIXED. I WOULD NOT FELL SAFE DRIVING IT TO THE DEALER AND MAZADA DOESNT COVER TOWING UNLESS ITS WITHIN 3 YEARS. SO THEY'LL TOW ANYTHING IN THE 2017 AND NEWER. 2012 MAZADA CX-9 WITH 112,500. OWNED IT FOR EXACTLY 3 TO DATED

MAZDA HAS RECALLED AND REPLACED FRONT SUB-FRAMES FOR CORROSION RELATED ISSUES. MAZDA HAS NOT RECALLED REAR SUB-FRAMES WHICH HAVE THE SAME CORROSION RELATED ISSUES FROM IMPROPER STEEL QUALITY OR FAULT MANUFACTURING OF THE STEEL COMPONENTS. UPON INSPECTION OF REAR SUB-FRAME, MULTIPLE HOLES IN THE REAR SUB-FRAME WERE OBSERVED, INCLUDING MULTIPLE HOLES AT THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR SPRING MOUNT WHICH SIGNIFICANTLY COMPROMISES THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY. I AM NOW AFRAID TO DRIVE THE CAR AT HIGH SPEEDS IN FEAR OF CATASTROPHIC FAILURE AND A CRASH. MAZDA DEALERSHIP HAS STATED IT IS NOT UNDER WARRANTY OR RECALL AND WILL COST ME APPROXIMATELY $4,000.00 TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE REAR-SUBFRAME. THIS IS NOT A MAINTENANCE ITEM IN MY OPINION ON A LESS THAN 10 YEAR OLD VEHICLE I BOUGHT NEW, AND IS A DEFECT FROM THE MANUFACTURER SIMILAR TO THE FRONT SUB-FRAMES. UPON INVESTIGATION ON THE INTERNET, NUMEROUS MAZDA6 OWNERS WHO HAD FRONT SUB-FRAMES REPLACED ALSO HAVE SAME ISSUE. *TR

MY CAR AUTOMATICALLY APPLIES ITS BRAKES WHEN IT SHOULDN'T BE. I WAS DRIVING AT A SPEED OF AROUND 60 MPH FOLLOWING A PICKUP TRUCK. THE TRUCK STARTS FLASHING TO TURN RIGHT, I STARTED TO BRAKE A LITTLE, MY SPEED WAS REDUCED TO AROUND 40-45 MPH... JUST WHEN I WAS READY TO HIT THE GAS PEDAL AGAIN, BECAUSE THE TRUCK HAS FULLY COMPLETED HIS TURN ( WAS ALL THE WAY ON THE OTHER STREET)... MY MAZDA 3 2018 HIT THE EMERGENCY BRAKE TO SLOW THE CAR REALLY FAST TO AROUND 10 MPH !!! THERE WAS ABSOLUTELY NO RISK OF A CRASH, MY GIRL FRIEND WAS IN SHOCK, SHE DIDN'T UNDERSTAND WHAT HAPPENED. SORRY IF MY ENGLISH IS NOT SO GOOD, I USUALLY SPEAK FRENCH !!! THE CAR HAVE ONLY 2000 MILLES, I BOUGHT IT NEW ON MARCH 2020... JUST BEFORE COVID-19 !!!

WAS DRIVING WHEN CAR SHUT DOWN FOR A SECOND AND TRACTION CONTROL, TIRE LIGHT AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I HAD NO POWER AND THE REAR TIRES WERE NOT SPINNING. I PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND SHUT IT OFF. I STARTED IT BACK UP AND ONLY THE TIRE LIGHT AND ENGINE LIGHT WERE ON AND I HAD POWER. I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE ANOTHER 30 MILES BEFORE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM.

MY DASHBOARD ABOVE THE STEERING WHEEL IS VERY HARD TO CLEAN AND HAS A CONSTANT VERY BAD GLARE THAT WONT GO AWAY, AND MAKES IT EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO SEE THROUGH THE WINDSHIELD AT TIMES. IT'S ALMOST AS IF ITS MELTING. IT HAS BEEN LIKE THIS SINCE I BOUGHT IT AROUND 2 YEARS AGO. MY DRIVER SEAT STARTED SHIFT WHEN I TURN CORNERS, LAST WEEK 6/24/2020 AND I'M SCARED FOR MINE AND MY BABIES SAFETY AS I AM A NEW MOM, ALSO THE WELLBEING OF OTHERS ON THE ROAD. I DONT DRIVE IT MUCH UNLESS NEEDED, AND HAVE BEEN FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO BE ABLE TO WORK FROM HOME.

THIS HAS BEEN AN ONGOING PROBLEM FOR THE LAST 4 YEARS. IGNITION SWITCH IS FAULTY. WHEN VEHICLE IS SHUT OFF, THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF, BUT THE AUXILIARY (RADIO, HEAT, AC) STAYS ON. THE SHIFT MUST BE MANIPULATED SEVERAL TIMES TO GET THE AUXILIARY OFF. BATTERY HAS BEEN DRAINED BECAUSE SOMEONE WHO DOES NOT KNOW ABOUT THIS DEFECT WILL INADVERTENTLY LEAVE IT ON.

FOR THE LAST YEAR, THE CAR ALARM IN MY 2009 MAZDA 6 HAS BEEN GOING OFF SPORADICALLY BY ITSELF AT ALL HOURS OF THE DAY WHILE PARKED IN MY APARTMENT BUILDING PARKING LOT. THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THAT MY PASSENGER SIDE DOOR ACTUATOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. IT WAS, AND A FEW WEEKS LATER THE ALARM WENT OFF AGAIN AT 3:30 AM, WAKING UP ALL OF MY NEIGHBORS IN THE PROCESS. BROUGHT IT BACK TO THE DEALER AND NOW THEY SAY IT'S THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR ACTUATOR. THERE ARE SO MANY REPORTS ON THE INTERNET OF OTHER MAZDA OWNERS HAVING THIS SAME ISSUE AND THERE IS A BULLETIN OUT THERE FOR IT. WHY HAS BEEN THIS NOT BECOME A RECALL YET?

REAR DRIVERS SIDE CALIPER BECOMES STUCK WHEN ELECTRIC BRAKE WHEN DISENGAGED CAUSING OVER HEATING OF ROTOR AND EXCESS HEAT TO THE WHEEL RESULTING IN PREMATURE WEAR OF ROTOR AND BRAKE PADS AND ALSO COULD LOSE BREAKING CAPABILITY I HAVE MADE AN APPT WITH DEALERSHIP TO RESOLVE ISSUE ON JULY 6TH